I've been having issues with my 2002 Dodge Neon SE. Sometimes the car is hard to start. When I turn the key in the ignition, it ticks for a good ten seconds before finally turning over. Also, there is a problem with the idle. While in park, it seems to be fine, but while in drive and stopped at a sign or light, the car begins to shake vigorously. I noticed the other day while I was at a stop light, the the front of the car is shaking as well as the steering wheel and the entire dash. I have consulted with many auto stores and mechanic friends and done as they said. I have replaced the spark plugs, spark plug wires, ignition coil, and air filter. I also ran a can of Gumout through the fuel tank. None of these have helped fix or even lessen the issue. Is there anyone who has any experience with this issue, and if so, how can it be fixed? I have another vehicle I'm working on, and I'm a DIY type person when it comes to these issues. Therefore, I want to see what I can try and do to help this before I give up and take it to a shop.

 

Welcome to the 2nd Gen Neon forum.

I see you don't have any replies yet, so I'll see if I can get things started.

Scan the computer & post All trouble code Numbers found, as they can help focus a trouble shoot.
Don't toss any more parts at the problem, unless you have a positive on a trouble shooting test.

Did the problem come about slowly over time, or suddenly after some event?

 

It just slowly started to happen. I was driving the car everyday until I bought another one. It sat for a month or so, but I still went to crank it and let it run for a few minutes every couple days. I actually had it checked the other day and no codes came up. I can get it checked again and have them make sure. I just don't know what to do in order to help it. I've done everything I was told, and there's no change at all.

 

Do you have, or can you come by a ELM, or the like scan tool, running diagnostic software on the viewing device of your choice, that can scan All of the vehicle computer/controllers? Most auto parts store code readers can only access the engine computer/controller.

Reading your initial post again, it seems you may have more than one problem.
If the vehicle had been sitting a couple of months with no fuel stabilizer, when it began acting out, part of the problem may be stale gasoline.

Have you checked fuel pressure & volume delivery over time with a fuel pressure gauge?

When coming to a stop & it wants to idle rough, or stall, what happens if you shift to "N"? Will the idle smooth out? If it does, the torque converter may not be unlocking, but you'd likely need a ELM, or the like scan tool, running a more sophisticated software, to be able to access the tranny computer/controller, to trouble shoot those kinds of problems.

The IAC = Idle Air Control is responsible for controlling idle speed, but if it's dirty internally, or electrically acting out, it could corrupt idle quality.

If the rough running is worse in damp/wet conditions/weather, raise the hood after dark & with the engine at warm idle, look for an arcs & sparks light show around the coil pack, plug wires. Maybe spritz them with a spray bottle of water to see if things light up, or idle speed gets worse from faulty insulation.
Pull the plug wires & look in the plug well to see if it's oily in there from a faulty valve/cam cover gasket. That's been known to happen & cause a wimpy spark.

So, you can see we need some trouble code clues, or border line sensor data, ect, to help focus your trouble shoot.

If the ELM scan tool can't find any pending, or set trouble code clues, it can display all kinds of sensor data, so you could maybe spot a borderline sensor, or system, that might help focus the trouble shoot.

 

I can have it scanned tomorrow and post any codes if they happen to come up. Shifting to neutral seems to help a small bit. I was going to replace the IAC to see if that would help, but I didn't want to spend anymore on parts, only for it to not help. But thank you for your help. I'll get it checked and post codes if they are found.

 

Ok, good feedback. Hold off on tossing a new IAC at the problem just yet, as there are a few other things to try before condeming the IAC.

Does idle get worse when stopped & its running rough & you then turn the A/C on, blower on High speed, head lights & rear window defroster on & turn the steering wheel left & right to add more load on the engine & to also load the electrical syatem?

If idle gets worse with added engine & electrical load, try removing the IAC to inspect & clean it internally with a non residual, plastic safe product, like CRC, or Valvolene MAF spray cleaner, then do the engine load test again.

If idle gets worse with added electrical load, have the electrical system/battery/alternator load tested to make sure they can take the added electrical load.

More thoughts for consideration, let us know what you find on the tests & code scan.

 

You mentioned in post 3 that the car sat for a month or so & you were starting it every couple of days & letting it run for a few minutes. This short run time, along with the sit time will run the battery down, so connect your smart battery charger & set it to a low, say 4-6 amp charge rate & let the smart charger run until it cuts off, to Slowly bring the battery back up to a full saturated recharged state over night, when it's cooler out, so it's easier on the battery & charger.

 

I actually replaced the battery when I started driving it again. The battery in it now is probably about four months old.

 

Well lets see, did replacing the battery fix the ticking sound & delay in starting?

If your still having a rough idle, have you tried removing & cleaning the IAC?

Did you ever top off the battery with a smart charger, set on a low recharge rate.

 

Sit in car with doors closed and turn key to start position without starting. Do this 3 times and on the 3rd your dash will show codes needed. My obd did not show what my car did.
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