2004 Dodge Neon SXT, 4 door Sedan

I had my clutch replaced after it went out. When I got it back the drivers side wheel area makes a noise.

Now when I drive there is a click, click click out of the drivers side wheel area. It doesn't get worse or better when you turn the wheel.

It's more of clunk than a click. It's not the type of click you hear when a CV Joint is going bad.

Oddly, I thought it was the mudguard flapping in the wind because my wife hasn't been too kind with it and the parking lot spaces stoppers. I removed it and it continued so it wasn't that.

The faster you go the louder it is and the tone changes a little deeper and there is a little "wheel hop" that wasn't there before. Above 40mph it's unbearable.

I tried to eliminate the causes that I could with the limited knowledge I have. Really tried everything.

The motor doesn't move up or down or side to side. I thought maybe it was a motor mount unless there is a bushing wore.

To do so I opened the door and stood on frame of the door jam and rocked the car up and down and there was the noise. I did the same thing, rocking the car up and down on the passenger side door jam and nothing. It seems to be more in the rear than the front of the wheel area. So whatever it is is when the car is moving and the car is, I guess, bouncing up and down.

If you push on the wheel fender on both sides you get the same resistance.

I think the key is the "door jam" bounce test.

Sorry if this doesn't make any sense.

 

Take it back and show them what it’s doing.

 

Thanks for the quick response. No, taking it back to the repair shop that put the clutch in is not a possibility.

I was hoping to get some ideals to see if it something I could tackle like shocks before sending it to another shop. I can change brakes do other repairs myself, etc, but if it's a bent axle or something like that I don't even attempt, like I didn't attempt the clutch.

I got the car back from the shop it was damaged, and they said it was already like that, which it wasn't. Luckily roadside towing Company took pics before they put it on the rollback because it had some minor scratches and that front mudguard issue and when I was picked up from the shop after the tow it still was. My safe auto driver device also show it had 100 extra miles and 7 extreme braking events while they had it so that boat has already sailed.

 

Me? I'd start going over suspension components: sway bar bushings, sway bar end links, control arm bushings, ball joints, tie rod ends, etc. There are two engine torque struts (mounts), one engine mount and one transmission mount that are both fluid filled from the factory. If those two mounts become damaged, the fluid leaks out and can cause NVH. Try testing the wheel bearings/hubs for play too. I'd start with the suspension components first though. Wheel hop is a traction issue, and the suspension is mainly what's going to control that while driving down the road.