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How does this timing belt look? I've got a car with 98K on the clock and Granny let a lot of things go. She also plastered something made of concrete but I've fixed that. I have a new timing belt set with pump and idlers, but it doesn't look to me like it needs to be replaced. The belt isn't quite as clean in person but there is no cracking, worn teeth and the tension feels about right. I've never worked on a 2.4 before so that's why I'm asking. My inclination is to button it back up and if I sell it, give the timing set to the new owner. I'm going through the car end to end so a little less wrench turning is welcome. I'm waiting on engine mounts as the upper and lower were toast. I'm going to replace the center mount too since it's in the set. I'm also going to pull the aternator while I'm this far apart and bench test it to listen to the bearings. They howled a bit when I looked at it.
There is no coolant or oil leaking. I'm thinking it has about 20-30,000 miles on it.
I'm no 2.4L guru but see you don't have any replies so will see if I can get things started. Good idea to have posted the timing belt photo, looks ok to me also, so I agree, give the set to the buyer along with the photo, IF you aren't keeping it.
On the alternator bearings no need to remove to listen to the bearings, use a mechanics sound probe or a long screwdriver, broom handle, or piece of tubing or hose, one end to your ear the other end on or near the suspect area.
Also no need to remove it for electrical load testing, While monitoring output voltage regulation. just turn on a bunch of power hungry things like head & fog lights, blower motor on High speed, A/C on, push cigar lighter in & see how it handles the load. Some thoughts for consideration.
I'm no 2.4L guru but see you don't have any replies so will see if I can get things started. Good idea to have posted the timing belt photo, looks ok to me also, so I agree, give the set to the buyer along with the photo, IF you aren't keeping it.
On the alternator bearings no need to remove to listen to the bearings, use a mechanics sound probe or a long screwdriver, broom handle, or piece of tubing or hose, one end to your ear the other end on or near the suspect area.
Also no need to remove it for electrical load testing, While monitoring output voltage regulation. just turn on a bunch of power hungry things like head & fog lights, blower motor on High speed A/C on, push cigar lighter in & see how it handles the load. Some thoughts for consideration.
I buttoned the cover back up and put the set in back. I'm assuming about 20-30,000 miles on the belt. I pulled and bench tested the alternator. Those are LOTS of fun to get out. I had a noise but I found a piece of leaf in there and when removed, the noise went away. I just like to make sure equipment is right before I sell it on. I'm too fay into this car to keep it. I just wanted a cheap car to avoid miles on my newer one and after fixing all the little things, it's not cheap any more.
I did manage to get the poo out of the drivers seat. Resolve cleaner is really good for that.
We inherited the MIL's 2000 2.0L & decided to keep it for the same reasons. Has been a good decision, as it's been reliable & low cost to maintain. The local Dealer Maintenance Mgr said the Neon was their Least troublesome model & it was Rare to see one in for Repair!!!! SO you might reconsider selling this puppy as its a 2.4L so is sorta rare on a Neon, thus it might be worth keeping more than you think????
We inherited the MIL's 2000 2.0L & decided to keep it for the same reasons. Has been a good decision, as it's been reliable & low cost to maintain. The local Dealer Maintenance Mgr said the Neon was their Least troublesome model & it was Rare to see one in for Repair!!!! SO you might reconsider selling this puppy as its a 24L so is sorta rare, thus it might be worth keeping more than you think????
The 2.4 was a bread and butter engine with the 2.4 turbo as an upgrade. The main reason I bought the car was I like the Mopar 4 bangers. I used to Autocross an Omni. Swap wider, stickier tires and flat foot it. This is turning into a good car but so deep I'll need to sell it so I can get a better trailer.
The 2.4 was a bread and butter engine with the 2.4 turbo as an upgrade. The main reason I bought the car was I like the Mopar 4 bangers. I used to Autocross an Omni. Swap wider, stickier tires and flat foot it. This is turning into a good car but so deep I'll need to sell it so I can get a better trailer.
ol' grouch, what are we gonna do with you, your looking for reasons to get rid of a not so common Neon & I'm trying to suggest good excuses for keeping this puppy, so you can drive it & save money by not driving the newer one, so you can use those savings to upgrade the trailer, or come by another trailer & fix it up like you want. as that would likely be less costly & that way you could sorta have your cake & eat it too!!! lol
ol' grouch, what are we gonna do with you, your looking for reasons to get rid of a not so common Neon & I'm trying to suggest good excuses for keeping this puppy, so you can drive it & save money by not driving the newer one, so you can use those savings to upgrade the trailer, or come by another trailer & fix it up like you want. as that would likely be less costly & that way you could sorta have your cake & eat it too!!! lol
Well, it's not a Neon, but a PT Cruiser. Same basic platform but different cars. I've had two people interested in buying it when I get it done. I'm well over my "beater" cost. The PT's have more of a following than I thought. They aren't really common as the newest ones are 11 years old, but they aren't rare either. I may keep it, I may not. A lot will depend on how it turns out when I'm done.. Right now, it's a garage queen.