Hello all! First I'd like to thank all the helpful members here have solved issues in the past, as you have helped me before! I apologize if this is a repeat post, though, I believe the older threads are dead being that their over 10 years old.

Backstory: Started the ole neon up and she was missing. Turned out to be missing on cylinder 2 & 3. Limped it back to my friend's house luckily. We were scanning for codes with the car still running. After getting the codes it shut off and would not crank. The red security light appeared at this time.

Attempted Troubleshooting: Purchased a monthly at alldatadiy.com and watched some South Main Auto videos on no crank/start/comms. Hopped in the '01 neon and headed out to troubleshoot the '04.

• 1st thing I noticed was Fuse #21 was blown. Replaced with a new 20amp fuse and cranked. The fuse blew.
• Disconnected all connectors that I am aware are controlled by the ASD fuse (Injectors, Ignition Coil. Noise Suppressor, both 02 Sensors). Cranked with all disconnected and the fuse did not blow.
• Reconnected and cranked all connections and the fuse was intact until I plugged in the Ignition Coil, which blew the fuse. At this rate I thought I had isolated the 3 wires that go to the Ignition Coil connector as the place to look.
• Removed all cable protection and tape and wires passed visual inspection. Tug tested the 3 and none broke. Tested each wire from the connector to the PCM connector and all had good continuity and no high resistance.
• With my infinite wisdom I thought the coil might have just failed with age, so I pulled the working coil out of my '01... cost me $70 but ruled out that idea. The engine started and missed a little but after about 30 secs went back to running on 2 cylinders. There was a visible crack in the coil housing from 2 to 3.

From what I've read the PCM supplies ground to the Coil 1 BLK/GRY and coil 2 DK BLU/TAN wires. I'm not sure of the correct way to test the PCM at C2 pin 9 & 10. I suppose I could alligator clip the negative of my test light to one and then touch battery positive to see if the ground is good in the PCM? Don't know it that would only work on crank or not...

I have a suspicion the PCM is the issue but I wanted to check with you all before buying a remanufactured one off of Amazon and having them program my VIN to it. I am a little unsure of how 'Plug n Play' it would be... I've heard that the SKIM will detect it but one might need a DRMIII tool and to purchase a key code with their locksmith license to get them talking.

I appreciate any insight you all can provide!

 

Not sure if this will help but I ordered a pcm from flagship one for my 2010 jeep commander and it was plug and play had no issues did not need to do anymore programming for keys or anything

 

Appreciate the input Nilo! I ordered a new PCM and they programmed the VIN to it. Swapped it out 2 days ago and she's running again

After the swap and a few times starting it up it wouldn't start again and got "NO BUS" on the odometer. Code reader showed a U110c. Cleared the code and she runs fine... Hopefully that was just the SKIM and the new PCM getting to know each other and not some other issue. Drove it an hour back home without issue.

Has anyone dealt with that U110c code while changing out a PCM?