man thats some bs. I got the same thing the other day. I always wonder if someone bought the part and returned the box with something different in it.

 

Well my cars not throwing codes and it runs and drives amazing for about 20 ,30 40 miles and then bam cuts off like I turned the key off. Wait half hour to a hour. Runs and drives again repeat process. Changed crank and cam sensor and my fiance threw a new fuel pump assembly at it again bc he swore that was it again lol. Aint got a clue.. Assuming they was good from the parts store. Any other ideas.

 

If you have a/c, swap the a/c and fuel pump relays. A failing relay will work fine but as current goes through it, it can fail. I got a truck once the PO had replaced the fuel pump and it started havinfg the same issue later. I swapped the relay and it quit. Swapped them back and put a new one in for the fuel pump and it never had the same issue again.

 

I agree the failure mode sounds like an acting out power relay, or loose, corroded contacts or faulty wiring to it, so they've earned their place high up on the suspect list.

Takes fuel, air & spark to make em run, so whats going missing when it stalls & won't start or run until it cools??? You can use your timing light to safely test for spark & fuel pressure gauge to test for fuel pressure. Fuel pressure should be-53-63 psi

When it stalls & won't restart, if the dash warning lights don't light up, look to the ECM power relay, as it must first work to also power the fuel pump relay to run for a couple of seconds to prime the system for a crank to start.

We can have pending codes that haven't happened long or often enough to have aggravated the ECM to have set a hard code thats turned the CEL on, so a scan-tool check can pony up any stored pending code clues, so post any found pending code Numbers.

More thoughts for consideration, let us know what you find.

 

I will go throw my scan tool on. I can gear the fuel pump kick on when I turn the key on and trying to start it.

 

Ok good feedback on Hearing the fuel pump run @ KO, so that suggests the ECM & Fuel pump relays are working. IF this occurs when it stalls & won't restart, then Spark going missing on the stall, fits the suddenly stopped running scenario you've described, as a fuel pump cut-off wouldn't cause the engine to Suddenly stop running, it might get wimpy on power up, miss some, go a ways until fuel pressure drops such that it can't feed the injectors, then it would finally stop running after a ways.
SO, break out the timing light to safely see if its Spark going missing when it stalls & won't restart for a half hour or so & let us know what you find.

 

I don’t have a timing light I will have to purchase one and get back ! After it stalls and isn’t starting what exactly do I need to be using the light on?

 

Hold on, lets think about this some more. Do you know someone that you could borrow a timing light from, to see if spark is going missing when it suddenly stops running & during the time after a stall when it won't restart until it cools off????

You'd connect the timing light to any spark plug wire to Safely see if spark is there or is missing when it won't run.

When connected to the #1 spark plug wire, we can also check spark timing by pointing the timing light at the passenger side timing mark on the crankcase belt pully notch, to see if its aligning with the engine timing mark. Yours is likely ok as it seems to be running ok when it runs.

The timing light is a quick & Safe way to check to see if spark is going missing when it stalls & won't restart when you crank the engine, until it cools off for 30-60 minutes.

Some parts stores have the timing light in their "Loan-A-Tool" program, so you'd not have to buy a light just for this test. We pay for the tool borrowed, then when its returned undamaged we get our money back.

You could use an old spark plug as a spark tester, remove an easy to get to spark plug wire & attach it to the old test plug, ground the metal body of the old plug on an unpainted, rust free clean Metal part on the engine. Then disable the fuel pump by removing its fuse, or power relay, so it won't run the engine & have a helper crank the engine & you watch to see if you see spark at the old test plug electrodes. No spark indicates the stall is being caused by a spark system component, so you'd know which system to trouble shoot further.
If you don't feel comfortable doing this, maybe a family member, neighbor, or work place friend could do it for you when the vehicle is in one of its no run / no-restart fits.
If there is no spark at the old test plug electrodes, then we'll know that system is causing the Sudden stall & no restart condition, so we can suggest other things to trouble-shoot / test..

If there aren't any dash warning lights lit when it suddenly stops running, or no warning lights lit when you crank the engine for a restart after a stall, suspect the ECM power relay, as if it opens up it'll kill power to the Computer & that'll suddenly kill spark & cause the engine to Suddenly stop running.

SO, give the forum some feedback on the dash warning lights when it dies, or when it won't restart after a stall, are the dash warning lights lit, or out???

 

I have seen relays that work fine cold but with age they begin to fail under load after a while. Relays are cheap. A new relay precludes a failure from heat.

 

BUMP::
Well Dayna, how's the stall trouble-shoot going, 2,111 curious minds would like to know???