I have a 2005 Neon SXT with the 2.0 manual trans set up. Only mods to this is a K&N filter in the stock box.
I have a problem with it stalling after start up. This only occurs after a outside air temperature drop or after it rains, thus another temp drop or when it's foggy. The car will start but you have to keep gassing it until it warms up or it will stall out. I have had it to the dealer twice and of course they can't duplicate the problem and they can't find any trouble codes in the computer. I'm guessing at 4 possible cause for this.
1. bad IAT sensor? If it were this wouldn't a code show up?
2. Bad TPS, again no computer code
3. bad IAC, again no code
4. Something mechanical in the throttle body itself that would not be picked up by the computer such as it catching on something when the IAC motor closes the butterfly to a point.
You guys have any ideas before I tear into this thing?
It looks as if I will have to fix this myself because the dealer is offering no help.
Thanks

 

I forgot to add this car is still under warranty, will it void the warranty if I replace these parts myself?

 

If it is under warranty then the dealer will HAVE to replace it, whether they want to or not. If they won't do it then report them to Daimler Chrysler.

 

Yeah I also have the same problem.
My car is a 2005 manual sxt, it only has 8000 miles. This problem probably started about 2 weeks ago (the car is almost 1 year old).
It only has happend 2 or 3 times, but the dealership told me the same, they can not duplicate the problem, so their is nothing to fix.
I don't know what to do

 

Take it back to the dealship every single time it happens. You will at least have a history of the issue. If it is under warranty then abslutely drop that thing off to them. Especially if you can reproduce it. Once is all it will takes. After that then they are responsible for the issue. See if you can pinpoint when it will do it and when not. ie.. above 40 and below 80 while raining etc... Anything can help. How long it has to sit. If it happens only after sitting all night then do not expect to drop it off and have it fixed in an hour or 2 cause they are going to try and reproduce it so they can get an idea of what is going on.

 

the dealer says if it does not throw a trouble code that they can pick up with thier scanner they cannot, and will not change any parts, according to company policy. They have had the car twice for a period of 3 days and no trouble light. All three days by the time they got around to looking at it the air temp was warm and it started right up. I told them it usually happens at night , after a rain or when its foggy. One trip they even wrecked the car while backing it out of the garage(minor-cracked tail light and bumper repaint). The mechanic stands there and tells me he believes I am guessing in the right area but he is not allowed to replace anything. After bring the car home it happened again that evening. Dealer says maybe when the weather gets colder here it will finally trip the check engine light. I don't think I want to wait that long. This is a real pain in the ***.

 

Just because there is no check engine light does not mean there is no problem. The check engine light only comes on if mechanical damage or emission goes above 1.5 times the limit. So take it back and tell them to fix it just before your to get a cool rainy night so they might see the problem. Trouble codes are only a guide not a diagnostic certanty.

If under those condition you can have it do it consistantly then See if you can happen to be near a Chysler dealership and demo it for the sales manager in the evening if not see above, oh and call Chysler Customer Service and complain politely.

 

Just because there is no check engine light does not mean there is no problem. The check engine light only comes on if mechanical damage or emission goes above 1.5 times the limit. So take it back and tell them to fix it just before your to get a cool rainy night so they might see the problem. Trouble codes are only a guide not a diagnostic certanty.

If under those condition you can have it do it consistantly then See if you can happen to be near a Chysler dealership and demo it for the sales manager in the evening if not see above, oh and call Chysler Customer Service and complain politely.

 

It may be helpful to get a cheap thermometer and hygrometer and put it in the car, when you start the car just jot down the temperature, humidity and whether it stalls or not. If you see any patterns emerging then you can hopefully get it to the dealer at a time when it's likely to stall.

 

I also have an 05 mtx...is now on its 3rd IAC as of tuesday (no cel btw)... I found that if I run the car then shut it down and let it heat soak in the sun for between 15 and 60 mins it will die everytime I start it without holding it above idle with my foot.. Sometimes it will even die for up to 10 mins of driving after I let it heat soak.. Anything above idle is fine but if you let your foot off the gas in neutral it will stall....I am considering putting in an ATX TB next summer after my warranty has expired cause im not replacing the IAC every summer...I have never heard of an ATX doing this.......Is the IAC on an ATX a different part number??



Also I have found that if im just crusing at 35 mph in 4th which is about 1500 to 1700 rpm (I think..cant remember off the top of my head) and I start slowly reducing speed which is now too slow for 4th gear and push in the clutch to rev it a tad so i can slide it into 3rd smoothly the engine boggs horribly like its flooded..sometimes I get pissed when this happens and I floor it with clutch in it takes about 3 secs before its "cleared out" and revs high again....Yes the car maintinance is done..Plugs every other oil change (champ coppers)...Wires done once already with mopar ones... Air filter done every 15000....In a 650 mile trip my wife got 31.5 mpg in my 05 following me in my 01 rt with 105000 miles which got 34.5 mpg...Im not gonna complain about the mpg one bit but the bogging during upshift gets old....Any guesses on that one???