get the turbo kit.. i live in canada and to get them in the states ur looking at 2300 plus install and a stage 1 turbo will still work with factory parts...anything above that ud have to upgrade motor parts....if you live in the states you shouldnt have trouble getting the turbo...i think the main problem is finding a mechanic to do ur instal because turbochargers arent the most favoured cars for mechanics to work on...i know this because my father is one lol....definatly go turbo ....in the long run its better for the money

 

Its a 2004 SXT with 30,229 miles.
Special Options: Rear spoiler and Fog Lights

I am going for mostly perfomance stuff not the appearance (besides badges and exhaust)
I also added up the prices you gave me 03neonRT and using the highest amount or only amount listed it came to $3650 w/o labor which is quite a bit cheaper than the cost for the turbo which would cost over $5000 dollars.

 

sorry to double post but i am to lazy to go back a page and hit the edit button again.
Anyways I went surfing the net again to look at the hahn turbo kit and the stage 1 is still $4200.
But an overwhelming number of people have told me to just build a turbo kit myself and I can do it for much less than $4200. Now i hope you are listening 03neonRT becuase i am gonna need parts.
What all would I need for the turbo kit? I think I will stick with the hahn/mitsubishi 16G turbo but I really don't know what other parts to get to get a custom kit to work on my 2004 sxt. Thanks for the help...Again.

 

Just check out the turbo sticky at the top of the page After that I can answer questions you'll have...

 

ok i checked it out and there is quite a bit of stuff there which i have no idea about what it does or how to get it to work properly. I am especially concerned about product compatibility with my car. is there any tips to help me with compatibility issues? (piping length, etc.)

 

What kind of "product compatability" are you referring to? As for what things do, just tell me which things your confused about and i'll try and clarify the information for you.

 

SRT-4 Turbo/Manifold
SRT-4 O2 Housing

SRT-4 Boost gauge

SRT-4 Dash Pod

Walboro 255lph Fuel Pump

SRT-4 Stage 0 or Stage 1 Injectors

SRT-4 Intercooler

AEM UGEO Wideband A/F Gauge

AaronNeon Return Line Kit or Spoolboy Mod Fuel Canister

Oil Pressure Gauge
Fuel Pressure Gauge (in-line on the fuel rail)

Dual Pillar Gauge pod

Melling M190 Oil Pump

Chill Factory or Cartech RRFPR (Rising Rate Fuel Pressure Regulator) - If MS is used, substitute for 1:1 FPR (PM Me I have An Extra RRFPR For Sale)

Mattdog SOHC Turbo Manifold Adaptor

IC Hot/Cold Side Piping (Stock SRT piping will not fit properly without modification)

AOBE Map Clamp or Missing Link (recommended

PT Cruiser Non-Turbo Modular Clutch (or aftermarket)

Mopar Borla 2.5" Catback Exhaust (exhaust isnt necessary, butI would recommend it)

Turbo XS BOV and Block-Off Plate (not needed, but is safer for the turbocharger)

All Lines, Fittings, and Bolts (leave extra money for any unforseen part costs)

Vacuum Lines and T-Fittings
*OPTIONAL* MegaSquirt (controlls spark timing and fuel injectors...use along with 1:1 FPR)

*I just copyed all that from the turbo thread*
I guess as long as the mechanic knows what he is doing I don't really need to worry about to much, but i am talking about will all the stuff listed there fit my 2004 SXT without special mods unless noted and what size vaccuum lines am i going to need etc. I am not really a full-blown car guy i just know enough where i can keep up a logical conversation. So thanks for all your help. oh yeah, could you tell me who the best people to talk to are about doing something like this?(These forums are a great place but i am looking for someone that can help me locally if possible andi know its probably not going to be the dealer unless I stick with mopar parts). Thanks again.

 

SRT-4 Turbo/Manifold This is the turbocharger and exhaust manifold that comes factory equipped on all 2003-2005 Dodge Neon SRT-4's.

SRT-4 O2 Housing This connects fromt he exhaust manfiold to your exhaust...

SRT-4 Boost gauge Allows you to properly view how much boost you are running (very important because you want to know at all times...especially on stock bottom end!!)

SRT-4 Dash Pod Holds the SRT-4 boost gauge...

Walboro 255lph Fuel Pump Your stock fuel pump cannot pump the correct volume of fuel which will lead to you having a lean mixture (very very bad, this would destroy your engine)...the 255lph pump is just an upgrade so you can get enough fuel.

SRT-4 Stage 0 or Stage 1 Injectors Our stock 19lb injectors cant deliever enough fuel, so you need larger injectors (around 30lb)...the Stage 1 injectors are 42lb and the Stage 1's are 47lb I think...so find Stage 0's or buy new 30lb injectors.

SRT-4 Intercooler An FMIC charges the air so your engine wont overheat with the much added heat and stress from running a turbo.

AEM UGEO Wideband A/F Gauge Allows you to view your Air/Fuel mixture...having the proper A/F ration is CRITICAL.

AaronNeon Return Line Kit or Spoolboy Mod Fuel Canister AaronNeons kit is a line that runs back into your fuel tank from your injector rail...Spoolboy Mod is a cheaper DIY method of achieving this.

Oil Pressure Gauge Just a precaustion so you know your oil pressure is up to spec...the turbo will put added stress on your lubrication ystem and oil pump.

Fuel Pressure Gauge (in-line on the fuel rail) Fuel is critical so you want to make sure you ahve the proper fuel pressure...also helpful when youer tuning with a A/D wideband and RRFPR.

Dual Pillar Gauge pod Holds the two gauges listed above.

Melling M190 Oil Pump More powerful, not necesarily rewquired but I would highly recommend it...less likely to fail under heavy stress.

Chill Factory or Cartech RRFPR (Rising Rate Fuel Pressure Regulator) - If MS is used, substitute for 1:1 FPR (PM Me I have An Extra RRFPR For Sale) A Rising Rate Fuel Pressure Regulator will help regulate your fuel on a riusing rate scale...easilly tuned and the cheapest way to go. The 1:1 increases your fuel PSI by 1psi for every 1lb of boost...however, you would need MS or some other type of standalone to utilize the 1:1 method.

Mattdog SOHC Turbo Manifold Adaptor Since the SRT-4 turbo manifold is a DOHC and our cars are SOHC, you need this adaptor so the manifold bolts up an matches the exhaust ports properly.

IC Hot/Cold Side Piping (Stock SRT piping will not fit properly without modification) The piping weill run fromt he turbocharger to the FMIC, and then from the FMIC to the Intake manifold.

AOBE Map Clamp or Missing Link (recommended) Your PCM doesnt like boost!

PT Cruiser Non-Turbo Modular Clutch (or aftermarket) A stock Neon clutch wont hold much of anything, the PT Cruiser NON TURBO clutch is rated up to 300whp/wtq and is quite cheap.

Mopar Borla 2.5" Catback Exhaust (exhaust isnt necessary, butI would recommend it) Just a good thing to have...

Turbo XS BOV and Block-Off Plate (not needed, but is safer for the turbocharger) Like it says, not needed, but helps keep some stress off the turbo and the entire system.


I hope that helped!

 

that was incredibly helpful!!
I just pmed you 03neonRT but in case anybody else wants to put their 2 cents in I remembered that another option is a straight up engine swap. Replace my engine with a 2004 SRT-4 engine and then get the mopar/borla exhaust. What else would I need to get the swap to work correctly?

 

Here you go, directly from the "Official 2nd Gen FAQ and Performance Thread".

Q: What other engines can swap into the 2nd Gen neon?
A: A 2.4 turbo engine from a 03-05 SRT-4 (or PT GT) can be swapped in or the N/A 2.4 from any year PT Cruiser. Most engine/transmission combinations can be found on ebay.com or at local junk yards. Average prices vary from $2,000-$3,500 and up to $5,500 if you choose the "donor car" method.

Q: What do I need to get the SRT-4 engine in my 2nd Gen?
A: For the SRT-4 turbo engine, you will need the following parts:

Engine and Tranny
Complete Engine Wiring Harness
Complete Engine Bay Wiring Harness
Power Steering Pump, lines, and cooler
Clutch master and slave cylinder
Clutch/Brake Pedal assembly
Intercooler Piping
Intercooler
Radiator Hoses
Lower Motor Mounts (the hole in the lower mount is larger for larger bolts)
SRT PCM (wont' need the bracket if swapping into an 03+)
Axles (and half shaft if it isn't on the engine)
Coolant Bottle
Fuel Line from tank to engine bay
Fuel Pump
Flex Fuel line from solid fuel line to fuel rail
Short evap hose that comes from the purge valve
All vacuum lines and the 3 selonids
o2 Sensors
Turbo Housing + o2 Housing
Lower Control Arms (they're stronger yet the same in shape)

Some options parts would include:

SRT Power steering rack (it's shorter)
Knuckles
Flexiable Brake Lines
Calipers
Rotors

Q: What transmission do I use with the swap?
A: You can use either the standard SRT-4 T-850 transmission or the stock Neon 3.55 or 3.94 tranny (the 3.55 came with the SE/SXT and the 3.94 came with the R/T and ACR). I would highly suggest using the T-850 for ease of install and its “proven” record with the 2.4L engine. You can also use an automatic transmission out of the Neon or PT Cruiser with some modification.