prolly synthetic is not going to do anything honestly..... depending on where u live i will do them for u.... it doesnt take that long, and honestly is not hard to do if u have a ten milimeter socket, rachet and i beleive it was 13 mil to get the bolts that hold the lifters down to the head....

anyway... to check to see if it is the lifters just pull ur valvecover off and just pull up and down on the lifter.... each individualy, u should not have any play in them, if there is play in them then it is not pumpin up like it should.....

any other questions just post

 

Tools i have, and my father is a lot more engine oriented than me, (i know basics) if i were to get the new lifters, were should i get them from? any brand in particular? And how long could it take?

 

just MAKE SURE TO, have them set at the corect torque specs. that is prolly one of the most important things u can do when doing this job... and i got mine from mopar, but i worked there at the time so it was not that bad in price...... i accually have a set if u were interested, but they have been sitting around, so it may take a while for them to pump up..... if u r interested let me know.......

i honestly had mine done in about 30 min... if that, i have an impact to get the valve cover off really fast.... then just take ur time and there will be spacers between the lifters... makesure u put them back together exactly the way u pulled them off......

 

thanks a lot, i'll let you know how did it go!

 

OH just a quick note, when u torque them down i think there r 5 (not positive) bolts holding the lifters down, then u bolt then down work ur way in qually.... do not go in a row..... just fyi

 

Actually, since the 2.0L Neon has an over head cam it doesn't have "lifters", what it does have is Hydraulic Lash Adjusters or Tappets on the rocker arms to take up the gap. IF they get varnished up they can stick and not pump fully up. You can get a can of CD2 engine detergent and pour in about 500 miles before your next oil change, it'll clean the varnish off of the tappets so they'll be able to pump up. Then change your oil with a decent quality 5w-30 and you'll be good to go.

 

Really, just welcome to Chrysler 4 Cylinder engines, they light to knock and rattle and will do so for a very very long time.

 

you're from northern NJ right... i really wanna take you up on that offer... i also need help fixing an oil leak from the oil pressure sender area... not sure if i should just silicone the crap out of it or what... but yea... you wanna meet up once it gets warmer around here...?

 

yeah, but i like in NY, not jersey...... lol...

but if the oil leak is coming out of the sending unit directly u can pull the sending unit out and get some teflon tape and rerap the sending unit.... if not it could be from the valvecover gasket also.... i have hurd of them leaking down to the sending unit and it LOOKS like the sending unit is leaking.... just FYI

i will on the western side of ny accually......

 

Is that CD2 stuff any good? I took the car in for an oil change, I ussualy use Castrol GTX (non synthetic) 10W30 or 5W30 depending on the weather, and oil changes every 3k miles. But yesterday i decided to give a shot to the synthetic, Mobil 1 10W30. I know is not going to make a difference, but maybe it will. My father hates the synthetic, he said is the worst thing i could do to my car, since is an old model, and is not a high performance car. But well those are arguments that we're always having lol. if anybody ever used that CD2, how good is it for the engine?