Turbo it!

 

Some 5.2 specs. Not my work and I can't credit it because I don't remember where I got it from.

Throttle body: dual 50mm bores. Chrysler patented 'Progressive Bore' necks this down to 48 mm at throttle shaft )

Theoretical Throttle Body Flow capacity: 440 cfm.....due to restrictive air intake system or 'Progressive Bore choke point, use about 400 cfm for best match

Intake Manifold runner length along centerline: 15 inches. Top of runner 17.75 inches and bottom length 12.75 inches.

Intake Manifold runner 'equivalent' diameter 1.59 inches

Intake manifold design type: single plenum with 90% divider (almost a dual plane....intake manifold seems to be quite restrictive at high cfm flows**

.....gross intake valve lift 0.432
gross exhaust valve lift 0.432

Notes:Factory Dakota RT exhaust seems to be about 550 cfm, resulting in +15 hp increase.

{all of the above data can be used to show that the new cam at the factory is installed 3 degrees retarded, but timing chain wear might gradually advance this. The camshaft specs may have changed a few times since 1992 as the factory tweaked them a bit, and eliminated EGR in 1997**

 

I forgot to add the other element of breathing -- 3" exhaust really helps.

 

I won't turbo it, lol.

I would like to get one of those 2 intake systems you guys talk about on here. I just don't see myself spending that much for that and paying a fortune to put it on if it just don't bolt right up.

If I didn't have to get someone to put all this stuff on, it would be different. People charge a fortune around here.

 

There isn't a better investment of money than the purchase of quality, lifetime tools and the know how to use them

 

So you're like me, eh? Can't really do it because of space and time considerations?

 

good to know guys. just put it out there incase someone overlooked it.

It'd be cool but if he wanted to use anything 93 octane or lower he'd probably have to lower compression through various means (low comp pistons, headgasket shims, etc.)

VDub (Gary-L) IDK what to think about your new sig.

 

If you mean the M1 and the F1? the M1 is just a bolt and go deal could not get any ezer. As post start getting some tools put together and just start doing the work yourself. Lot's of good people here to help you.

 

I don't remember what Hahns5.2 had to do to his truck. I don't think he lowered compression any.
Only problem with the M1 is that it ain't made no more.

 

There out there used, just have to hunt on the web for them.