My 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 Project.
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Professional
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 212
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From: Cincinnati, OH
Update: Road test
O M G She didnt over heat. Not only did not not over heat, she didnt go over 180F. Went for about 30 miles, down 74 to 275 to 75 to my Buds place in reading and then home again. I put some injector cleaner in her and added about 10 gallons of fuel since she was on empty for along time.
Things I noticed:
Seriously have to start doing suspension, she pulled to the right the whole time and I know its not my STi but the steering feel a little loose, not too bad, but enough to notice it wasnt spot on.
Side note: I think I have a leak in my AC, damn near cook myself going for a ride.
Next Projects:
A Arms - Upper and lower ball joins, and all bushings. Yeah this is going to be fun!!
I think to be safe I will do the brakes too. They weren't bad, but they could be a lot better.
O M G She didnt over heat. Not only did not not over heat, she didnt go over 180F. Went for about 30 miles, down 74 to 275 to 75 to my Buds place in reading and then home again. I put some injector cleaner in her and added about 10 gallons of fuel since she was on empty for along time.
Things I noticed:
Seriously have to start doing suspension, she pulled to the right the whole time and I know its not my STi but the steering feel a little loose, not too bad, but enough to notice it wasnt spot on.
Side note: I think I have a leak in my AC, damn near cook myself going for a ride.
Next Projects:
A Arms - Upper and lower ball joins, and all bushings. Yeah this is going to be fun!!
I think to be safe I will do the brakes too. They weren't bad, but they could be a lot better.
Thread Starter
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Professional
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 212
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From: Cincinnati, OH
Update:
OK, Checked the wheel bearing, it looked OK, gave the nut a quarter of a turn and it took the play out. I play on changing out the brakes and disc's later on so dont panic.
Changed the upper ball join, the rubber boot was torn and the join was absolutely dry, the stud moved freely on its own as well as in and out, yeah it was toast. Replacing that is a pain in the butt doing it on the truck itself, but I eventually got it done. For some reason the new grease gun I bought wouldnt work with the nipple on the ball joint, so I took it to Jiffy lube and had them do it, while I was there, they did topped the transmission fluid, rear diff and changed the oil again to the proper oil.
And... thats when I found my next problem, I have a vacuum leak somewhere. Everytime I was at low rev's it would stall. I think I stalled about 10 times going 3 miles, that was way retarded. Unfortunately I cant do anything about it right now, as it decided to rain and that pretty much put an end to my day of working on the truck. I also noticed a knocking noise when I went over bumps on the passenger side, so I guess I will have to look at that as well.
Notes about today:
Things go alot quicker when you have the right tools. I could have done with a 22mm wrench, my biggest was a 19mm. Using the old adjustable wrench just sucks, No I didnt strip the bolt, but it just takes up far too much room.
OK, Checked the wheel bearing, it looked OK, gave the nut a quarter of a turn and it took the play out. I play on changing out the brakes and disc's later on so dont panic.
Changed the upper ball join, the rubber boot was torn and the join was absolutely dry, the stud moved freely on its own as well as in and out, yeah it was toast. Replacing that is a pain in the butt doing it on the truck itself, but I eventually got it done. For some reason the new grease gun I bought wouldnt work with the nipple on the ball joint, so I took it to Jiffy lube and had them do it, while I was there, they did topped the transmission fluid, rear diff and changed the oil again to the proper oil.
And... thats when I found my next problem, I have a vacuum leak somewhere. Everytime I was at low rev's it would stall. I think I stalled about 10 times going 3 miles, that was way retarded. Unfortunately I cant do anything about it right now, as it decided to rain and that pretty much put an end to my day of working on the truck. I also noticed a knocking noise when I went over bumps on the passenger side, so I guess I will have to look at that as well.
Notes about today:
Things go alot quicker when you have the right tools. I could have done with a 22mm wrench, my biggest was a 19mm. Using the old adjustable wrench just sucks, No I didnt strip the bolt, but it just takes up far too much room.
Record Breaker
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 1,210
Likes: 0
From: Crystal River, FL
Update:
OK, Checked the wheel bearing, it looked OK, gave the nut a quarter of a turn and it took the play out. I play on changing out the brakes and disc's later on so dont panic.
Changed the upper ball join, the rubber boot was torn and the join was absolutely dry, the stud moved freely on its own as well as in and out, yeah it was toast. Replacing that is a pain in the butt doing it on the truck itself, but I eventually got it done. For some reason the new grease gun I bought wouldnt work with the nipple on the ball joint, so I took it to Jiffy lube and had them do it, while I was there, they did topped the transmission fluid, rear diff and changed the oil again to the proper oil.
And... thats when I found my next problem, I have a vacuum leak somewhere. Everytime I was at low rev's it would stall. I think I stalled about 10 times going 3 miles, that was way retarded. Unfortunately I cant do anything about it right now, as it decided to rain and that pretty much put an end to my day of working on the truck. I also noticed a knocking noise when I went over bumps on the passenger side, so I guess I will have to look at that as well.
Notes about today:
Things go alot quicker when you have the right tools. I could have done with a 22mm wrench, my biggest was a 19mm. Using the old adjustable wrench just sucks, No I didnt strip the bolt, but it just takes up far too much room.
OK, Checked the wheel bearing, it looked OK, gave the nut a quarter of a turn and it took the play out. I play on changing out the brakes and disc's later on so dont panic.
Changed the upper ball join, the rubber boot was torn and the join was absolutely dry, the stud moved freely on its own as well as in and out, yeah it was toast. Replacing that is a pain in the butt doing it on the truck itself, but I eventually got it done. For some reason the new grease gun I bought wouldnt work with the nipple on the ball joint, so I took it to Jiffy lube and had them do it, while I was there, they did topped the transmission fluid, rear diff and changed the oil again to the proper oil.
And... thats when I found my next problem, I have a vacuum leak somewhere. Everytime I was at low rev's it would stall. I think I stalled about 10 times going 3 miles, that was way retarded. Unfortunately I cant do anything about it right now, as it decided to rain and that pretty much put an end to my day of working on the truck. I also noticed a knocking noise when I went over bumps on the passenger side, so I guess I will have to look at that as well.
Notes about today:
Things go alot quicker when you have the right tools. I could have done with a 22mm wrench, my biggest was a 19mm. Using the old adjustable wrench just sucks, No I didnt strip the bolt, but it just takes up far too much room.
Thread Starter
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Professional
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 212
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From: Cincinnati, OH
OK I will, sounds like an easy fix!
Thread Starter
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Professional
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 212
Likes: 0
From: Cincinnati, OH
Cleaned the throttle body today, in order to fix my idle issue.
Air Intake on the keg - Yeah I cleaned that too.
Looking down the top of the Keg, what you think? do I need to do a plenum gasket?
After cleaning everything I went for a ride, same trip as last week. Not only did it not stall once the whole time, it idled so nice!! When I reversed down my driveway and parked where I usually do, put it in park, and the idle went up slightly, just like it should. I am VERY happy about that!
Also replaced the drivers door lock, the key for the ignition doesnt lock the doors so I had to replace it. I will do the passenger door tomorrow.
Just for kicks, when I got in the truck, my rear view mirror was sitting there dangling, I was like WTF. So back to autozone for a repair kit for that. I havent mounted it back up yet but I have glued the little bar back on the window and will mount that tomorrow.
Man, what a day!!
Air Intake on the keg - Yeah I cleaned that too.
Looking down the top of the Keg, what you think? do I need to do a plenum gasket?
After cleaning everything I went for a ride, same trip as last week. Not only did it not stall once the whole time, it idled so nice!! When I reversed down my driveway and parked where I usually do, put it in park, and the idle went up slightly, just like it should. I am VERY happy about that!
Also replaced the drivers door lock, the key for the ignition doesnt lock the doors so I had to replace it. I will do the passenger door tomorrow.
Just for kicks, when I got in the truck, my rear view mirror was sitting there dangling, I was like WTF. So back to autozone for a repair kit for that. I havent mounted it back up yet but I have glued the little bar back on the window and will mount that tomorrow.
Man, what a day!!
Grand Champion
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 5,011
Likes: 6
From: Meeker, CO
I recommend doing the vacuum/pressure test in the TSB to test for a blown plenum gasket. For that matter, I always recommend testing when possible rather than by guess and by golly parts replacement. The plenum gasket test is quick and easy and will tell the tale.
Thread Starter
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Professional
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 212
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From: Cincinnati, OH
So, I went to take the truck to Autozone to put up their ODBII reader on so I could see what was causing the air bag light to come on, put the key in and click. Im like 
, try again and it kicked over but it sounded rough. I got the truck to move forward about 3 feet and it died. Im like WTF. Turn the key again, click, click, click, click, click.
Grr!! I get the Forester XT and jump it and watch the volts go to 14, but when I try the key again, click, click, click, click. It has a new battery, so Im thinking solenoid on the starter. Go to Autozone, asked for a solenoid kit, yeah, apparently I had to get a whole starter motor. I thought, heck why not, so I get a battery charger as well. I plug it up and apparently the battery is pretty much dead. So Im trickle charging it over night and we will see how we go in the morning. If it starts straight up, I will take the starter back and take the alternator with me to have it tested.
I decided to check the wifeys Forester XT for oil, it likes to drink it for some reason and it doesnt register on the dipstick. I go back to Autozone, and by some oil and come back again and fill that up.
I checked the battery charging and it said it was about 50% I hope thats all it is, Im getting tired of throwing money at this motor.
, try again and it kicked over but it sounded rough. I got the truck to move forward about 3 feet and it died. Im like WTF. Turn the key again, click, click, click, click, click.Grr!! I get the Forester XT and jump it and watch the volts go to 14, but when I try the key again, click, click, click, click. It has a new battery, so Im thinking solenoid on the starter. Go to Autozone, asked for a solenoid kit, yeah, apparently I had to get a whole starter motor. I thought, heck why not, so I get a battery charger as well. I plug it up and apparently the battery is pretty much dead. So Im trickle charging it over night and we will see how we go in the morning. If it starts straight up, I will take the starter back and take the alternator with me to have it tested.
I decided to check the wifeys Forester XT for oil, it likes to drink it for some reason and it doesnt register on the dipstick. I go back to Autozone, and by some oil and come back again and fill that up.
I checked the battery charging and it said it was about 50% I hope thats all it is, Im getting tired of throwing money at this motor.