My 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 Project.
It would be ideal if you could pressurize the block so that when you driller all the crap would blow out instead of down inside... (Thats how some drill ac vw blocks for full flow oil filter systems.)
Hey man, nice work so far, I have an extra passenger side blinker assembly and headlight if you need it. Id sell it to you for half of what the junkyard wants.. Send me a PM if your interested.
My favorite trick for things like that, after removing the part from the engine so the gunk doesn't foul anything, is to chuck a smallish steel cable into a drill, fray the end a bit, and run it into the tube to erode away the obstruction. After that, shoot some penetrating oil in there, let it sit for a few minutes, then blow it out with compressed air. This works great on plugged fuel lines, dipstick tubes, and the like.
Update
Well today was alot of cleaning and cleaning.
The Hood
Before:

After:

Engine Bay:

But what the heck does this go to? Anybody else got this?

Now as for the blocked dip stick tube.
I put engine degreaser down it and then ran my drill with a 3/8 wood drill bit into it. I had to go down 6 to 8 inches before it cleared. Then I sprayed more degreaser into the tube till there was no more mud looking liquid on the stick. It now goes in and is in place.
Am I worried about the stuff in going in the oil pan? No, It still needs to have an oil change and I wont run it again till I do that.
Have you found the water leak yet? uh No, I need to look for it, but Im not going to do that till I move it closer to my garage.
I still need to get a Air Cleaner Mounting Gasket - Autozone for $1.99 Part Number# 60038 did not feel like going to Autozone to pick up a $2 part. Im pretty sure I am going to have to change the radiator so I will get that at the same time.
Thanks
Kai
Well today was alot of cleaning and cleaning.
The Hood
Before:

After:

Engine Bay:

But what the heck does this go to? Anybody else got this?

Now as for the blocked dip stick tube.
I put engine degreaser down it and then ran my drill with a 3/8 wood drill bit into it. I had to go down 6 to 8 inches before it cleared. Then I sprayed more degreaser into the tube till there was no more mud looking liquid on the stick. It now goes in and is in place.
Am I worried about the stuff in going in the oil pan? No, It still needs to have an oil change and I wont run it again till I do that.
Have you found the water leak yet? uh No, I need to look for it, but Im not going to do that till I move it closer to my garage.
I still need to get a Air Cleaner Mounting Gasket - Autozone for $1.99 Part Number# 60038 did not feel like going to Autozone to pick up a $2 part. Im pretty sure I am going to have to change the radiator so I will get that at the same time.
Thanks
Kai
Well I dont know, it was at the Father in laws place for like 2+ years before I got it. Knowing these guys, they probably did it. They seem to break everything they touch.
Wow. If it weren't for the master cylinder I wouldn't have guessed it was even the same truck.
If the crud you pushed down the dipstick tube sticks to the oil pan rather than running out when you drain the oil, windage and circulation may cause you a serious d'oh moment. That would suck a lot.
If the crud you pushed down the dipstick tube sticks to the oil pan rather than running out when you drain the oil, windage and circulation may cause you a serious d'oh moment. That would suck a lot.
Wow. If it weren't for the master cylinder I wouldn't have guessed it was even the same truck.
If the crud you pushed down the dipstick tube sticks to the oil pan rather than running out when you drain the oil, windage and circulation may cause you a serious d'oh moment. That would suck a lot.
If the crud you pushed down the dipstick tube sticks to the oil pan rather than running out when you drain the oil, windage and circulation may cause you a serious d'oh moment. That would suck a lot.
Edit: wouldnt any dirt just be caught in the oil filter?
Last edited by SplatSTi; Jul 5, 2010 at 07:37 PM.
If it's not blown around the crankcase by windage, it will. The rub comes if/when the filter drops too much pressure because of the crud and the bypass valve opens. Then the crud (may) go into the rest of the engine where you don't want it and the d'oh moment follows. It depends upon where the crud ends up how soon that moment follows.
The thing you circled looks like the bracket that the air filter kinda connects too, but it should be flat across not standing up like that take the airfilter back off and look at the bottom of the housing and there should be a hole in it that slides onto the post on the bracket.
Ok had to go look and took a pic for ya, this is what that bracket should look like.
Ok had to go look and took a pic for ya, this is what that bracket should look like.
Last edited by redheadhunter21; Jul 5, 2010 at 09:12 PM.



