Back at workin on the Indy(warning/novel/lots of big pics)
You can pwdrct thin sheet metal & bend the metal back & forth till it breaks.
If the pwdrct is cured properly it should/will break on the same line as the sheet metal would without flacking off from bending
If the pwdrct is cured properly it should/will break on the same line as the sheet metal would without flacking off from bending
Some of the pics Ive added to my 2010 page since last posting (more pics on site)
Big crash(house/car/V10) has slowed work for a while but back at it again

These were a bit of a PITA
Practised putting this into the cold oven a couple times.
Welding gloves too big & couldnt be used (would of bumped pwdr for sure)
Had to lift it into the oven supported ontop of 2 fingers on each side while hunch over trying not to touch bare legs to the hot door.(not use to 110*+humidex)
Not enough room to grab the bar better without touching the sides of the 400* oven.

Didnt do a good enough job taping the inside bearing race on the passenger side knuckle I pwdrctd first.
Used pwdrct remover to get the excess off & made sure it was done right on the drivers side.

Moog balljoints in the uppers/lowers.
Replaced the inner/outer tie rods & sleeves with Moogs also.
Was able to match the lengths so should be ballpark still on the alignment.
When I installed the upper arms used 2 small blocks of 3/4" plywood to space them from the frame rails so they would at least be even.
Big crash(house/car/V10) has slowed work for a while but back at it again


These were a bit of a PITA
Practised putting this into the cold oven a couple times.
Welding gloves too big & couldnt be used (would of bumped pwdr for sure)
Had to lift it into the oven supported ontop of 2 fingers on each side while hunch over trying not to touch bare legs to the hot door.(not use to 110*+humidex)
Not enough room to grab the bar better without touching the sides of the 400* oven.

Didnt do a good enough job taping the inside bearing race on the passenger side knuckle I pwdrctd first.
Used pwdrct remover to get the excess off & made sure it was done right on the drivers side.

Moog balljoints in the uppers/lowers.
Replaced the inner/outer tie rods & sleeves with Moogs also.
Was able to match the lengths so should be ballpark still on the alignment.
When I installed the upper arms used 2 small blocks of 3/4" plywood to space them from the frame rails so they would at least be even.
Last edited by RM_Indy; Jul 26, 2010 at 01:59 AM.



Very happy with how its all turned out.
Powder coated the coils, knuckles, upper arm shafts & 4 ends, shock bolts/nuts & the 4 tops/bottoms for the rubber bushings.
Havent decided what color to do the sway bar in yet.
End links & caps as well as the frame brackets are in the Indy blue/purple mix of pwdrs.
Thinking of doing it in that Indy color (maybe too much?) or chrome.
Think Im close to 250pc that ive powder coated now.
Used Duplicolor blue, red & black to detail the pads, callipers.
Like to go to billet twin piston calipers but have to save that mod for later.

Nice to have the wheels back on again
Yeah like to enter her in a few car shows
Not sure how well it would do seeing the hood, fender fronts & the bumper have a couple stone chips,,,
Of course I want to take her to the track as well
Not sure how well it would do seeing the hood, fender fronts & the bumper have a couple stone chips,,,
Of course I want to take her to the track as well
pissmeoff
Popped the drivers side front leaf spring eye out of the hanger, pushed out the stock bushing & pressed in the ES poly bushing.
Dropped the leaf back into position & was thinking, damn, this is going pretty quick.
Set the torque wrench to 130lbs to start & then proceeded to snap the damn bolt.
Haynes said 150ftlb, I double checked a couple times cause I thought it seemed hi for that bolt.
94-95 is 100lbs & I almost set the wrench for that torque but ended up going 130 duhh.
Of course its backordered from the dealer & $35 a piece!
Popped the drivers side front leaf spring eye out of the hanger, pushed out the stock bushing & pressed in the ES poly bushing.
Dropped the leaf back into position & was thinking, damn, this is going pretty quick.
Set the torque wrench to 130lbs to start & then proceeded to snap the damn bolt.
Haynes said 150ftlb, I double checked a couple times cause I thought it seemed hi for that bolt.
94-95 is 100lbs & I almost set the wrench for that torque but ended up going 130 duhh.
Of course its backordered from the dealer & $35 a piece!
Well isn't that just convinient. Seems every time I need a part from the stealership, they tell me its got to be shipped from 'the warehouse' and come back another day. Always the same story with those people. Atleast I can say they always get the part right the first time. Unlike Napa and Autozone


