Audio Equipment Help, Just Ask Questions.
i wanted to see what kind it was but it said it wasn't found on the site.
Perfectly acceptable, but here is my two cents on the matter....
H/U: http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Pioneer+...&skuId=9760833
It's basically the same thing that Rob has suggested, but a little cheaper, and the face plate lights are much nicer on the eyes at night. That blue is killer to me at night.
Front Door: http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Alpine+-...&skuId=8704217
Rear Wall: http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Alpine+-...&skuId=8699394
Woofers: http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...SWR-1022D.aspx
Amp for door/wall: http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu..._MRP-F300.aspx
Amp for Woofers: http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu..._KAC-7204.aspx
Total: $850.97
The prices on what I showed you can be bought for cheaper all over the place. I recommend that you buy them at a place that offers a warranty through both the company and the manufacturer.
What I would do in your shoes is take out what you need for wiring and put the rest to buying a dynamat or eqvilant setup to deaden the sound coming from the road, motor, and the rest of the drive train. You'll also need a box or two boxes. Doesn't really matter. Make them for less than $30.00 a piece, or buy them for around $70.00 in store.
Also, I highly recommend that once you get everything installed that you take the truck to your best rated audio shop and flip them a few bucks to tune in the system for you.
You will NOT need power wire larger than 8 gauge on this setup. I would run a 4 gauge from the battery and then T them off going into each amp. Since you have the infinity system, I feel that it would be easier to just simply run new wire to all the speakers instead of trying to fuddle your way through the factory setup on the truck.
One last thought: Research some of this yourself, and if you have questions about a brand not listed, then by all means post up a link to it asking. We won't flame. I might be stern if it's a really bad brand, but I won't be an *** about it.
H/U: http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Pioneer+...&skuId=9760833
It's basically the same thing that Rob has suggested, but a little cheaper, and the face plate lights are much nicer on the eyes at night. That blue is killer to me at night.
Front Door: http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Alpine+-...&skuId=8704217
Rear Wall: http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Alpine+-...&skuId=8699394
Woofers: http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...SWR-1022D.aspx
Amp for door/wall: http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu..._MRP-F300.aspx
Amp for Woofers: http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu..._KAC-7204.aspx
Total: $850.97
The prices on what I showed you can be bought for cheaper all over the place. I recommend that you buy them at a place that offers a warranty through both the company and the manufacturer.
What I would do in your shoes is take out what you need for wiring and put the rest to buying a dynamat or eqvilant setup to deaden the sound coming from the road, motor, and the rest of the drive train. You'll also need a box or two boxes. Doesn't really matter. Make them for less than $30.00 a piece, or buy them for around $70.00 in store.
Also, I highly recommend that once you get everything installed that you take the truck to your best rated audio shop and flip them a few bucks to tune in the system for you.
You will NOT need power wire larger than 8 gauge on this setup. I would run a 4 gauge from the battery and then T them off going into each amp. Since you have the infinity system, I feel that it would be easier to just simply run new wire to all the speakers instead of trying to fuddle your way through the factory setup on the truck.
One last thought: Research some of this yourself, and if you have questions about a brand not listed, then by all means post up a link to it asking. We won't flame. I might be stern if it's a really bad brand, but I won't be an *** about it.
TY laramie and Rob. I'll do a little research based of what you guys suggested.
Grand Champion
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 7,055
Likes: 7
From: Lee County, North Carolina
I agree with Laramie on the color deal. Red, green (not too bright) and orange are fine but blue is killer on your eyes at night. I have a blue LED on one of my switches on the knee blocker and when I have that switch on and turn the wheel enough for it to shine through and get in my peripheral vision, it puts a haze over my eyes.
My HU has that really bright blue and I didn't know that you couldn't adjust it when I got it. It's great on a sunny day but at night it bugs me. Especially rainy nights when street visibility goes to hell.
Cap, I thought of a few other things that you might not have picked up between Rob's link's and mine. You'll see components offering two different Watt ratings. You need to pay attention to one and really not the other. All you need to concern yourself with is the RMS ratings. RMS is simply what the speaker needs in terms of power all the time or what the amplifier in question can provide all the time. You'll see two different ratings on most amps as well with RMS. Usually something like 50w @ 2ohm and 75w @ 4ohm. It's just a resistance method. To get the most, make sure your speakers can support a 4 ohm setup. (more a problem with woofers than door and wall speakers)
In my eyes, you should be looking at these brands for speakers:
Alpine
Infinity- Kappa and or Reference
Polk
Diamond..
Hertz- No personal exposure to them as I stated, but I have seen them in action.
Brands I say to stay away from:
Sony
Kenwood
Kicker
JVC
Pioneer
Fosgate
JL
You'll see some rather large brands in my "no" list. This is only because I have not been impressed with their performance. Some people might like them, but I don't think the quality and function are quite up to spec with the others.
In terms of amps...
Look at:
Alpine
Kenwood
Eclipse- If you can find them
Power Akoustics- Great Amps, but a little finicky to wrong settings
Brands in my "no" list:
Pioneer
Fosgate
SONY
JL
Kicker
JVC
MTX
I have by no means covered all the brands out there, but this might give you a nice heading in the right direction.
Cap, I thought of a few other things that you might not have picked up between Rob's link's and mine. You'll see components offering two different Watt ratings. You need to pay attention to one and really not the other. All you need to concern yourself with is the RMS ratings. RMS is simply what the speaker needs in terms of power all the time or what the amplifier in question can provide all the time. You'll see two different ratings on most amps as well with RMS. Usually something like 50w @ 2ohm and 75w @ 4ohm. It's just a resistance method. To get the most, make sure your speakers can support a 4 ohm setup. (more a problem with woofers than door and wall speakers)
In my eyes, you should be looking at these brands for speakers:
Alpine
Infinity- Kappa and or Reference
Polk
Diamond..
Hertz- No personal exposure to them as I stated, but I have seen them in action.
Brands I say to stay away from:
Sony
Kenwood
Kicker
JVC
Pioneer
Fosgate
JL
You'll see some rather large brands in my "no" list. This is only because I have not been impressed with their performance. Some people might like them, but I don't think the quality and function are quite up to spec with the others.
In terms of amps...
Look at:
Alpine
Kenwood
Eclipse- If you can find them
Power Akoustics- Great Amps, but a little finicky to wrong settings
Brands in my "no" list:
Pioneer
Fosgate
SONY
JL
Kicker
JVC
MTX
I have by no means covered all the brands out there, but this might give you a nice heading in the right direction.
Professional
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 202
Likes: 0
Laramie, Why the beef with kicker? Ive had some of the best luck with their solo-baric woofer line. I havent had much experience with the mids and highs but their subs are reasonably priced and perform well with the right amp. The only draw back to them is they suck some amperage. Ive heard good about their higher end amps too, but have no personal with them either. Im with you on the infinity stuff though, a friend of mine had the kappa series door speakers in a tahoe and that thing screamed clarity.
Rookie
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 55
Likes: 0
From: Wisconsin
Hey I've got a question. I have a 2000 ram 1500, i replaced all the the door speakers with kicker components running off a rockford fosgate amp, a 10" kicker sub on seperate rockford amp, but i cheaped out and bought a dual head unit. It works great, but every now and again when i shut the truck off then turn it back on later the head unit will not turn on. The back lighting is on but it wont turn on. The only fix i have found is to pull the I.O.D. fuse and put it back in.. All the wiring for the head unit was soldered, so i doubt they got loose. Any ideas???
Professional
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 203
Likes: 0
From: TN (423)
Laramie, Why the beef with kicker? Ive had some of the best luck with their solo-baric woofer line. I havent had much experience with the mids and highs but their subs are reasonably priced and perform well with the right amp. The only draw back to them is they suck some amperage. Ive heard good about their higher end amps too, but have no personal with them either. Im with you on the infinity stuff though, a friend of mine had the kappa series door speakers in a tahoe and that thing screamed clarity.
The L line is ridiculous. Every L7 I have ever heard was not that great. My 2 diamond D3 would drowned out two L7's and I paid an easy 400 less
Rookie
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 55
Likes: 0
From: Wisconsin
I've got the kicker-ds components in the doors and the kicker compvt sub behing the center console. I think the sound is quality is great. I've only got the one 10" sub and it shakes my truck like you wouldn't believe. Im sure they are not the best you could buy, but for $180 for everything you cant go wrong.
Laramie, Why the beef with kicker? Ive had some of the best luck with their solo-baric woofer line. I havent had much experience with the mids and highs but their subs are reasonably priced and perform well with the right amp. The only draw back to them is they suck some amperage. Ive heard good about their higher end amps too, but have no personal with them either. Im with you on the infinity stuff though, a friend of mine had the kappa series door speakers in a tahoe and that thin screamed clarity.
Hey I've got a question. I have a 2000 ram 1500, i replaced all the the door speakers with kicker components running off a rockford fosgate amp, a 10" kicker sub on seperate rockford amp, but i cheaped out and bought a dual head unit. It works great, but every now and again when i shut the truck off then turn it back on later the head unit will not turn on. The back lighting is on but it wont turn on. The only fix i have found is to pull the I.O.D. fuse and put it back in.. All the wiring for the head unit was soldered, so i doubt they got loose. Any ideas???
I know that a lot of people tend to go Dual just for the fact that they can get a relatively cheap GPS/DVD head unit, but as with most things in life, you do get what you pay for in car audio. If it sounds too good to be true, it probably is. That is, unless you catch some really fine components on sale at a tent like I did with my amps and woofers.
Rookie
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 55
Likes: 0
From: Wisconsin
If you are 100% positive that you have the wiring connected correctly, then it is probably a problem with Dual's circuit board. Really a common issue with Dual, Kenwood, JVC, Jensen, and most factory decks.
I know that a lot of people tend to go Dual just for the fact that they can get a relatively cheap GPS/DVD head unit, but as with most things in life, you do get what you pay for in car audio. If it sounds too good to be true, it probably is. That is, unless you catch some really fine components on sale at a tent like I did with my amps and woofers.
thanks for the reply