I'm really not the dude to tell you about injectors.. that is a very DEEP subject.. What I DO know, is you don't want anything over 23lbs @ 43.5psi.. that will put you at about 25# @49psi, and smack dab in the 'far too rich' range.. The amount of gas isn't near as important as the proper a/f mix is.. My 22#r's didn't make it today, so the F1 is running the stock red 22.5#r's still..

Alrighty, got the F1 on and running..

I don't know what all this talk about 'loss of bottom end' is about- in my case, it absolutely helped.. I mean, not a little bit- a LOT.. (of course, there is no plenum pan to leak either, so that is likely the biggest difference)..

The 180* stat didn't fit in the housing.. I had a 160* new in box, so I put it on.. I'll grab a 180* tomorrow and put it on when the injectors finally land..

The truck climbs smooth through the power band- and pulls strong up to about 4kRPM.. I didn't take it any higher than that.. There is a decided whistle from that rascal when it starts sucking- and I mean it sounds like a mini-boost in there..

I have more brake pedal now.. I'm sure it has to do with changing the intake and getting a lot stronger vacuum now- again, it may simply be the lack of leaking plenum pan again, or it may be lesser volume in the plenum which makes the signal really strong.. I have a OBDII cable-to-USB and an application that monitors this junk, I'll see if I can't get it to cooperate and log some data for those of 'yall interested..

I haven't changed the oil yet.. I got a good drain on the cooling system and don't think I got much if any in the crankcase.. I'm going to change it in the a.m., and then I'll run it hard.. that being said- I took it down a country road and ran it pretty hard- when another car was coming I backed off a little and let it settle at 60mph.. I checked out the console computer and it read 15mpg- it isn't terribly accurate, but it usually reads somewhere around 12 once the engine settles at 60..

I backed out of the drive, put it in drive and slightly popped the gas, and chirped the tires.. I think me and this F1 are goinf to get along just fine!

I had no issues whatsoever putting it on, with the sole exception of getting the fuel rail aligned and seated properly.. The design of the F1 makes it easier to see the rails aren't perfectly parallel. It took me a few minutes to figure that out.. I have to cut a sliver out of my Volant air-hat to get it to fit.. that 1/2" higher F1 is just tall enough to make it not fit.. It isn't pretty, but it works..

It may be a good thing the injectors didn't make it today, for you guys anyway.. I'll have a more direct comparison with the old ones on there, and can give a report on the benefits of running new ones a whole lot clearer..

Alrighty, I'm gonna go watch some football!

 

looks sweet good idea to do injectors after just to be able to see if there is a diffrence ?

so is it worth the 600 bucks ?

also what gears ya have ?

 

I doubt it will ever be worth the $600 in principle, but it absolutely will be nice to never worry about a floggin plenum pan leaking again..

I have 4.56:1 gears.. I need to fill out my signature, huh?

 

I forgot to ask if you trimmed the bypass hose for the water pump. The stock hose is too long and will kink a little if you don't trim it.

I don't think I got any coolant in the lifter valley when I put the airgap on because I popped the bottom radiator hose off and drained all the coolant out that way.
When I took the kegger off I didn't see any drops of coolant around the water passages on the heads.

So did you see the sharp edges around the injector holes that I was talking about smoothing out with a wire wheel in the dremel?

 

Yeah I had to trim about an inch off the hose, but it fits nice now. The bosses were a mess, I spent several hours last night honing the edges off. The stat housing was enough to **** me off. I had an expensive 180 I can't use- the slant 160 fits nicely though. I'll run it until the new injectors show up.

Here is something odd: the gaskets matched up almost perfect. I didn't polish the ports, but I did polish the throat of the TB adapter. It felt like about 20 grit sandpaper.

All in all it went well. I'll swap the oil tomorrow and hit the road. So far, what little I've ran it, I'm impressed.

 

I left the inside of my throttle body adapter coarse, if I get bored one day I might take it off and smooth it down.
I'm surprised that the new thermostat doesn't fit. My 180º is a Stant though, that might be why I didn't notice anything out of the ordinary.
What do you mean by the gaskets matched up almost perfect?

 

I meant that the gaskets 'holes' matched the intakes ports w/o metal visible but no overhang either. They match up to the heads pretty close too. A lot of folks will take the time to perfectly match them and taper and polish the removed surface area. It's 'sposed to increase flow- its been said that one additional cfm THROUGH the heads adds 1 pony.

Its absolutely possible that a person could add up to five cfm per port for an easy 40 ponies. I was just too lazy to pull heads and gasket match and polish intake/head/header ports.... I have too much going on right now to mess with it.

 

Sounds like too much work.

 

One day I'll retire this thing as a daily driver and wouldn't hesitate to do it. But these are stock heads and it just isn't worth it with them. And yessir, it is a LOT of trouble just for that, but ya gotta figure: say 3 bengi's for gaskets/bolts and dremel bits for upwards of 40 horses isn't a bad investment.

Add to that better heads, ported, nice springs and good cam for another 50 horses, and another 1.5k, for around 2k total you could put a hundred more ponies under the hood. I don't know what you would do with it in these trucks, but you'd have it anyway.