do you think having a viper cowl hood and a 14x3 would grab cooler air from the outside. i cant really see how it would because the lip of the firewall is over the 14x3.. didnt really try this setup as im using the K&N CAI. i been thnking of trying it out.

im just worried about not getting the good oxygen levels in the throttle to burn the fuel as the 14x3 brings in the hot air.







some pics to get an idea. the front in not funtional just the back is

 

The cowl induction hood uses high pressure air at the base of the windshield to help with the 'ram' effect. At low speeds, it does nothing. At higher speeds, it will indeed push cooler air into the engine bay.

Best method? Have the cowl scoop sealed to the top of the air cleaner housing. That way, even when you are going slow, the intake draws air thru the scoop.

 

Just take the hood and air cleaner off all togeather and drive like that to get the Full effect

 

I have my couch piercing beer cans ya know...... LOLOL

 

not trying to hijack, as it is a related question:

Given proper ducting and flow, how much does ram air help?

I just ordered a Good Hood ram air hood w/ front scoop.. It just looks good, but I wanted it to perform a function too.. What difference will colder air make in real world terms?

 

every ten degree drop in intake air temp equals one horsepower.

Now, consider that it gets WELL over 150 degrees under the hood..... the stock induction system draws air thru the fender well, but, ultimately, the only openings are under the hood, in there with that nice warm engine....

14X3? Yep, right on top of the nice warm engine, where things are at their warmest. Granted, it flows a LOT better than stock, so, basically, you gain a bit, but, not as much as you could.

99% of the "cold air induction" systems on the market for our trucks draw air from the same spot as stock...... however, they also flow better than stock, so, more an improvement from a flow standpoint, than cooler air.

Having your engine draw air that is NOT previously warmed by the engine is 'best' from a performance standpoint. However, winter driving characteristics may get interesting until the engine starts warming up some. (fuel doesn't atomize as well in colder air..... meaning, VERY cold air.) One of the reasons for the "thermac" on carberated cars, draw nice warm air off the exhaust manifold till the engine warmed up.

 

huh.. didn't know the math of it all.. thats good info..

I had a VTX1800 I recently sold.. had that rascal BUILT.. it would floggin' MOVE.. it had a snout that came off the right side of the jug and forced air into the TB from about 3" from the TB.. I rode it last New Years and opened it wide in about 15~20 degree weather..

10* cooler= 1 pony.. yup.. that explains it.. My usually 140hp rig must have been well over 150.. Never been faster on a bike before- I was well over 170mph and though scared silly, it was exciting!

the bad news is though, that Good Hood hood just cost me the most expensive maybe 3 ponies EVER..

 

Ah, but, it has aesthetic value as well.

 

You are dead on, except I believe it is every 10 degree drop equals a 1% increase in power, not just 1 horsepower.

Really once you get moving the 14x3 will pull in around the same temps as any CAI would. From a dead stop they are also about equal as heat from the engine will warm up the CAI tube, just as it would the 14x3. I know this because of IAT readings I took with my OBD2 scanner.

Ram air is definitely the way to go if you can get away with it, just be sure if you do go the "sealed 14x3 ram air/cowl hood route" that you have some form of rain deterrent.

 

You have something against free water injection?