tranny filter extension
i am fixing to order this deep tranny pan.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DER-14210/
i saw a thread where someone used a "filter extension?" do i need one.
the pan they used was deeper than this one and also another type.
also the pan says it is a 5 quart capacity but at the bottom of the page it says it adds only 1 quart. i know others on here have put this on and would love to know a little more.
i know i ask alot of questions but the only dumb question is the one i did not ask, thinking i knew the answer and did not.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DER-14210/
i saw a thread where someone used a "filter extension?" do i need one.
the pan they used was deeper than this one and also another type.
also the pan says it is a 5 quart capacity but at the bottom of the page it says it adds only 1 quart. i know others on here have put this on and would love to know a little more.
i know i ask alot of questions but the only dumb question is the one i did not ask, thinking i knew the answer and did not.
Last edited by BIGBIRD85; Feb 2, 2011 at 03:20 PM.
I've been looking for one of thiose extensions for my tranny!
I believe that works...A 46re is a 518/727 series style tranny, but the pan has to be deeper than a 46RH and 727 because of the shift selenoid/pressure switch assemblies.
HAve you called Sunmit and asked them?
I believe that works...A 46re is a 518/727 series style tranny, but the pan has to be deeper than a 46RH and 727 because of the shift selenoid/pressure switch assemblies.
HAve you called Sunmit and asked them?
The Derale 14010 extension works just fine inside their 14210 deep pan on a 46RE. That's the setup I've got.
Though you can get by just fine without the extension, I recommend it because it makes it certain that if you've got anywhere near enough ATF in the transmission the filter will remain submerged unless you roll the truck.
Though you can get by just fine without the extension, I recommend it because it makes it certain that if you've got anywhere near enough ATF in the transmission the filter will remain submerged unless you roll the truck.
Just get this pan. It comes with an extension (mine did).
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BMM-10280/
The Derale one used to be a deal at $75 but if its the same price why mess with a cheap steel pan. Aluminums are far better as they are significantly stronger, give structural support to the tranny case, have a drain plug, have a temp sensor hole, look way better, and mine cools really well (even without those stupid tubes).
The extension depth is different for the A727 and A518. I used an extension of about a 1/4" for my A518 (the pan also came with the longer one for the A727). The reason for the difference in depth is not the solenoids. It is the extra valve body required for the OD unit.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BMM-10280/
The Derale one used to be a deal at $75 but if its the same price why mess with a cheap steel pan. Aluminums are far better as they are significantly stronger, give structural support to the tranny case, have a drain plug, have a temp sensor hole, look way better, and mine cools really well (even without those stupid tubes).
The extension depth is different for the A727 and A518. I used an extension of about a 1/4" for my A518 (the pan also came with the longer one for the A727). The reason for the difference in depth is not the solenoids. It is the extra valve body required for the OD unit.
Last edited by Gerehead8; Feb 2, 2011 at 03:59 PM.
I'd rather have a steel pan myself, than an aluminum one. But I'm not sure how well the Holes in a Derale pan work but they've been around for years.
I've already cracked my aluminum pan. A steel one would have bent, and even if it had been pierced, It would have been far easier to trail repair. I ended up having it tig welded..twice. The other day I noticed that the gasket is leaking. All the bolts were torqued. Never had that issue with steel pans.
I'm not sure how an aluminum pan increases the structural integrity. It's bolted to the casting, not welded. While it might be thicker than a steel pan, it's still aluminum. Sure it doesn't bend if you overtorque the pan bolts...
BTW...the 46H pan (which has overdrive) is deeper than a 727 pan, but as deep as a 46re pn. The 46h is still govenor wieght controlled. If you don't believe me, compare the sump depths.
I've already cracked my aluminum pan. A steel one would have bent, and even if it had been pierced, It would have been far easier to trail repair. I ended up having it tig welded..twice. The other day I noticed that the gasket is leaking. All the bolts were torqued. Never had that issue with steel pans.
I'm not sure how an aluminum pan increases the structural integrity. It's bolted to the casting, not welded. While it might be thicker than a steel pan, it's still aluminum. Sure it doesn't bend if you overtorque the pan bolts...
BTW...the 46H pan (which has overdrive) is deeper than a 727 pan, but as deep as a 46re pn. The 46h is still govenor wieght controlled. If you don't believe me, compare the sump depths.
Last edited by dsertdog56; Feb 2, 2011 at 04:49 PM.
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I'd rather have a steel pan myself, than an aluminum one. But I'm not sure how well the Holes in a Derale pan work but they've been around for years.
I've already cracked my aluminum pan. A steel one would have bent, and even if it had been pierced, It would have been far easier to trail repair. I ended up having it tig welded..twice. The other day I noticed that the gasket is leaking. All the bolts were torqued. Never had that issue with steel pans.
I'm not sure how an aluminum pan increases the structural integrity. It's bolted to the casting, not welded. While it might be thicker than a steel pan, it's still aluminum. Sure it doesn't bend if you overtorque the pan bolts...
BTW...the 46H pan (which has overdrive) is deeper than a 727 pan, but as deep as a 46re pn. The 46h is still govenor wieght controlled. If you don't believe me, compare the sump depths.
I've already cracked my aluminum pan. A steel one would have bent, and even if it had been pierced, It would have been far easier to trail repair. I ended up having it tig welded..twice. The other day I noticed that the gasket is leaking. All the bolts were torqued. Never had that issue with steel pans.
I'm not sure how an aluminum pan increases the structural integrity. It's bolted to the casting, not welded. While it might be thicker than a steel pan, it's still aluminum. Sure it doesn't bend if you overtorque the pan bolts...
BTW...the 46H pan (which has overdrive) is deeper than a 727 pan, but as deep as a 46re pn. The 46h is still govenor wieght controlled. If you don't believe me, compare the sump depths.
The dearale pans used to be an inexpensive option. Now they are not hence why I am not suggesting them. The only reason they have tubes is because the stamped steel pan would other wise never compare to the cooling ability of a cast aluminum pan with fins. I do not know how they work but they look like they might work and thats all people need to justify it. Look how long throttle body spacers have been available for MPFI vehicles.
The cast aluminum trans pan is rigid, steel pans are not. The huge hole in the casting that is covered by the pan allows alot of flexing. This will cause cracks in the casting. A rigid cast aluminum pan attached to this hole will essentialy make the the tranny shell one piece and not allow this flex. Bolting or welding does not matter in this instance. I seroiusly doubt the 20lb/ft or whatever it is when the pan is properly torqued bends the 1/4 of cast aluminum of the B&M pan.
Do you mean that 46RH pan is not as deep as the 46RE pan? I have heard that before but have no first hand experience. I suppose that would make sense as if I remember correctly the '89 A727 I recently rebuilt had a small steel spacer for the filter.
Last edited by Gerehead8; Feb 2, 2011 at 05:59 PM.
I would be worried that a hit hard enough to crack a cast aluminum pan would have enough force smash a steel pan and damage the valve body (assuming the conact point was heigh enough).
The cast aluminum trans pan is rigid, steel pans are not. The huge hole in the casting that is covered by the pan allows alot of flexing. This will cause cracks in the casting. A rigid cast aluminum pan attached to this hole will essentialy make the the tranny shell one piece and not allow this flex. Bolting or welding does not matter in this instance. I seroiusly doubt the 20lb/ft or whatever it is when the pan is properly torqued bends the 1/4 of cast aluminum of the B&M pan.
Do you mean that 46RH pan is not as deep as the 46RE pan? I have heard that before but have no first hand experience. I suppose that would make sense as if I remember correctly the '89 A727 I recently rebuilt had a small steel spacer for the filter.
The cast aluminum trans pan is rigid, steel pans are not. The huge hole in the casting that is covered by the pan allows alot of flexing. This will cause cracks in the casting. A rigid cast aluminum pan attached to this hole will essentialy make the the tranny shell one piece and not allow this flex. Bolting or welding does not matter in this instance. I seroiusly doubt the 20lb/ft or whatever it is when the pan is properly torqued bends the 1/4 of cast aluminum of the B&M pan.
Do you mean that 46RH pan is not as deep as the 46RE pan? I have heard that before but have no first hand experience. I suppose that would make sense as if I remember correctly the '89 A727 I recently rebuilt had a small steel spacer for the filter.
Even if a steel cover would be bent back into the valve body, it could still be hammered into shape, tears sealed with JB weld (or brazed shut) and driven off. An aluminum pan would be shattered jigsaw puzzle.
I would suggest anyone that is considering aluminum for diff covers or tranny pans in off roading look up the test one of the off road magazines did a while back on these.
And yes, 46rh pans are not as deep as a 46re because of the electronics required to run the (larger) valve body in the 46re.
A B&M "deep pan" for a 727 or 46rh is a top notch built piece but adds only a quart or so to a 46rh. The 4 quart rating is for a 727.
The B&M 10280 isn't deep enough for a 46re. You could use a PMI (which I have) or MagHytec pan. The PMI is not as nice as the Mag, but is quite a bit cheaper.
Edit: I've always thought that "rigidty" thing was a bunch of hooey. Here's why. Unless both the case and the pan are cast from the exact same alloy of alluminum, and have the same thickness, they are going to heatsink or flex at different rates.
Hmmm...I just explained why the pan on my tranny is leaking....!
Last edited by dsertdog56; Feb 2, 2011 at 08:48 PM.


