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Hub/Bearing

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Old Mar 20, 2011 | 04:30 PM
  #1  
democrat's Avatar
democrat
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Angry Hub/Bearing

I attempted to replace ball joints in my 2001 Dodge Ram Dana 60 straight axle. I could not for the life of me separate the hub/bearing from the knuckle. I followed the repair manual and it told me to back out the 4 mounting bolts and hit them with a hammer to loosen the hub/bearing from the knuckle. Maybe heat would work but that might cook the bearing. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to remove the hub/bearing?

Bill
 
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Old Mar 20, 2011 | 06:00 PM
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What I do sometimes is put the bolts in about 4 or 5 threads (take care not to bugger the threads on the hub). Then put a hammer or something metal between the head of the bolt and the knuckle and have someone with the truck running turn the steering wheel. Do this on the bolt heads on both sides. With the assist of the power steering the hub assembly should separate. Since you are turning the wheel make sure the truck is supported by a jack and jack stand properly. I don't like using heat for the reason that the seals might melt. Good Luck.
 
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Old Mar 20, 2011 | 08:57 PM
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They can be a real pain in the rear. When in doubt...grab a bigger hammer
 
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Old Mar 20, 2011 | 09:03 PM
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Take a chisel in between the bearing and the knucke. Thats how I get mine off. Heat will ruin the bearing.
 
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Old Mar 22, 2011 | 02:16 AM
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I just ran into this on a 96 jeep. I used a slide hammer thats used for pulling crank pulleys and removed the bolts and threaded them in through the front of the hub was only able two of the three bolts in the hammer though, and went to town on it. I was replacing the hub that time so I was not worried about damaging it. This is just a suggestion though.
 
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Old Mar 22, 2011 | 08:52 PM
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I've heard alot of people having success with the way whtdually suggested.
I bought sacrificial bolts and beat the pi$$ out of them with a sledge hammer.
If you damage the factory bolts they are about 7 bucks EACH, so be careful

Once you get that out the ball joints on the 01 are real fun to remove....They changed in 99 and require a tapered cup with the ball joint press to press them out.

I would also recommend you get a can of CRC freeze off, (Forget about the claims of it's thermal shock properties, it BS) It eats rust and penetrates very well.
Its all I use now on my truck or machinery at work.
 
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