Wheel spacer advice?
Hey guys! I'm running 35x10/r16 CO-OP MUDDERS on my 98 1500 4x4. They are mounted on the factory wheels. To my knowledge, the truck has no lift. When I turn lock-to-lock, they rub the two arms attaching the front diff to the frame. Yeah, I don't know what those are called yet! Anyway, I was told that wheel spacers will fix this, but I don't wanna buy spacers that's are wider than necessary. I guess I hoping someone has encounter a similar problem, and that they'll tell me that 1" spacers (or less) will cure this. If y'all say I need 2", I'm gonna hurl!! Thanx in advance!
welcome to df. fill out your signature with year, etc of your truck.
jason might move this thread over to the technical section. might not.
the long arms are called suspension arms.
are you sure your tires are 35x10? because most 35's are 35x12 which require wider than the stock 7" wheels.
anyway - be aware that wider wheels and spacers can lead to shorter than normal life of the expensive front wheel bearings. so don't go any wider than absolutely necessary.
an alternative to spacers is to jack up the truck and turn the wheels to the lock and see if you can find "adjustable stops" in/around the knuckle that need to be lengthened to stop the wheels from turning so far.
if you do decide to put on spacers, do a test by removing the tire and spacing it out with either a stack of washers or a 1 inch lug nut and retest the turning. you can test it to the limit of the lug length and see how much change you get. obviously- don't drive it this way, just test the turning.
jason might move this thread over to the technical section. might not.
the long arms are called suspension arms.
are you sure your tires are 35x10? because most 35's are 35x12 which require wider than the stock 7" wheels.
anyway - be aware that wider wheels and spacers can lead to shorter than normal life of the expensive front wheel bearings. so don't go any wider than absolutely necessary.
an alternative to spacers is to jack up the truck and turn the wheels to the lock and see if you can find "adjustable stops" in/around the knuckle that need to be lengthened to stop the wheels from turning so far.
if you do decide to put on spacers, do a test by removing the tire and spacing it out with either a stack of washers or a 1 inch lug nut and retest the turning. you can test it to the limit of the lug length and see how much change you get. obviously- don't drive it this way, just test the turning.
I have 5" suspension lift and 3" body lift , That doesn't matter at all for tires rubbing on the control arms during tight turning. To solve the rubbing issues.....don't turn so hard . It's cheap and works great, also a lot easier on wheel bearings than spacers will be .
Here's a pic from the front:

The tires actually say 9", but I'm guessing 10" is more like it.
I couldn't find where to adjust my profile, sorry! I only have access via iPhone and I'm still trying to figure it out!

The tires actually say 9", but I'm guessing 10" is more like it.
I couldn't find where to adjust my profile, sorry! I only have access via iPhone and I'm still trying to figure it out!
Co-op muds run weird sizes. I wouldn't run spacers with our ****ty hub bearings. I had some 15x10 wheels and after 8 months maybe a bit less I had completely toasted both bearings. I agree turn not so sharp lol.
Yeah I think they are bias ply. But wouldn't adding rims with less backspacing have the same "fulcrum" effect as spacers?
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same effect. it moves the load from bearing center to off-center, which is not ideal.
Yeah there's really no other way it could be! But being that the suspension arms are located mid-wheel, a lift won't cure it either! Seems spacers or wheel offset is the only way. I guess bearing damage is just gonna be "part of playing the game"!







