I will be replacing my brake line, which runs from the front/rear above the fuel tank, along the frame. It burst in a location under the driver seat, just in front of the gas tank. I lost my brakes on state rte 51 and I didn't panic. I pulled the lever down into 2nd, pulled on the emergency brake handle, applied some pressure to the emergency pedal, went into first. I was about 6 miles from home going away from my home. I put on my flashers and drove conservatively, I completed my errand, then drove back home. It now sits in my driveway and I'm looking for line/fittings to replace entire line. TOOOO shot to put a new piece into the middle of it. I have a 2002 and it is rusted crap of a line. WHY Dodge, would you not charge and extra $100 per vehicle and put on stainless or non ferrous alloy on this CRITICAL system??? All of the dealers in my area have been shut down by Chrysler.

 

Spock-mckoy, I feel your pain. Its great that you made it home alright!

Hopefully you have access to another car for transportation. Without any nearby dealers, you'll have to buy the bulk brake line, a couple fittings, a tubing flare tool, and then you'll have to make a new one of the lines yourself.

Cut as big of a chunk of the line off that you can (getting the whole line off in one piece would be ideal), without mangling it. The way, you can bend your new line as close to the old one as you can, with it off of the truck.

Good luck!

 

While crawling under my truck today in the rain, I traced from the beginning to the end of the brake line that rides along the frame rail and over the gas tank to the rear axle. Behind the front drivers wheel well there is a block, and on the rear axle is a block of metal that the brake lines go into. The front block goes up to the ABS unit with a short piece of tubing. The rear axle block has the feed from the front, divides into 2 for L/R rear brakes, then a 4th rubber tube heads out of this rear block & up above the rear tire and stops. Are these 'blocks' simply blocks of metal to divert the fluid? OR is there something mechanical inside these that make them special? IF I can eliminate the front block and run the new brake line straight into the ABS unit, that would be good because of the heavy corrosion on the front block, I don't know if I can save it. I may have to heat with a torch to get the old nuts out of them to replace with new nuts. Thanks!

 

I don't know if you can bypass the front block. If the block is still complete, soak it will pb blaster or similar penetrant a couple days and see if you can break them loose. A Line wrench is most valuable for this, or cut the line off close enough to the fitting with a saw so that you can use a proper 6 point socket and ratchet to break them free.

You might want to start a new thread in the main 2nd Gen section to see if you get some results there. Not too many people will eventually read your post here.

Good luck!

 

The rear line that runs by the gas tank, doesn't go right to the rear end. It stops at the end of the tank and changes over to a rubber brakehose that goes to the block on the rear end. That block is also the vent for the diff.

 

well, I did get the old line that blew disconnected at each end and removed some of it. The rest will remain to rot above the fuel tank. I got it disconnected at the front block and on the rear frame rail where it turns to a rubber line. the flare nut wrenches rounded of the rusted remains of flare nuts. I ended up using vice grips to remove the old flare nuts. These nuts fell apart like rusty crackers......... I am waiting for my non ferrous brake tubing to arrive in the mail. I ordered a 25 foot tube of it from fedhillusa.com with an assortment of common flare nuts.