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Glow Shift Gauges

Old Jan 26, 2012 | 03:08 PM
  #21  
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OK so, my vac gauge directions say to connect the purple and orange wires together, and then connect that to an ignition wire. So all I have to do is separate them and hook the orange to the dimmer circuit? Not that I have any problem, because I have the dash lites up all the way anyway. Just nice to know for future reference.
 
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Old Jan 26, 2012 | 04:05 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by zman17
OK so, my vac gauge directions say to connect the purple and orange wires together, and then connect that to an ignition wire. So all I have to do is separate them and hook the orange to the dimmer circuit? Not that I have any problem, because I have the dash lites up all the way anyway. Just nice to know for future reference.

I think so. But mine do not have purple.....And I always have mine all the way up also! I may have to slap the lights back in and take it for a spin this wekend just to watch gauges!

Also while I was hooking up the gauges, I snapped one of the plstic vacuum lines (the tiny BRITTLE one) that goes back to the dahs. With that line not repaired at idle I was reading 15. After repair it was showing 20. Is that normal for idle? And I did not have it running long enough for trans temp to rise so won't know how that is until I take it for a drive. With deep pan and added cooler, it should be pretty low temp for a while.
 
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Old Jan 26, 2012 | 04:11 PM
  #23  
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Yep, your readings are completely normal at idle.
 
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Old Jan 26, 2012 | 07:54 PM
  #24  
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Great! I love it when something is right!
 
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Old Feb 3, 2012 | 05:42 PM
  #25  
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I finally had a chance to do some work on my pillar pod today. Cut a hole and notched the spare pillar cover I bought so the wiring and vacuum tubing will fit. The fit and finish of the pillar pod isn't very good. The tweeter fit is very ugly and the pillar seems to have an odd bow along the side. I need to work that out before I paint it. I'm hoping to have most of it installed this weekend.
 
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Old Feb 3, 2012 | 05:47 PM
  #26  
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Use a heat gun, you can bend it slightly to make it fit better.
 
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Old Feb 3, 2012 | 06:01 PM
  #27  
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That's my plan, that and 3M emblem tape to hold it to the pillar cover. The tweeter fit is another matter. There's no easy way to get the tweeter to fit flush. I may need to leave an edge up a little where it meets the lower gauge.
 
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Old Feb 3, 2012 | 06:07 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Jimythefan
That's my plan, that and 3M emblem tape to hold it to the pillar cover. The tweeter fit is another matter. There's no easy way to get the tweeter to fit flush. I may need to leave an edge up a little where it meets the lower gauge.

Use the screws since your using a sacraficial oem pillar.
 
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Old Feb 4, 2012 | 11:55 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Jimythefan
That's my plan, that and 3M emblem tape to hold it to the pillar cover. The tweeter fit is another matter. There's no easy way to get the tweeter to fit flush. I may need to leave an edge up a little where it meets the lower gauge.

On mine the tweeter wouldn't sit flush either, the OEM pillar kept pushing the speaker out on one side of the pod. I just modified the OEM pillar. It was awhile ago, but I think I just had to cut out the little bump where the tweeter sat in the OEM pillar.
 
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Old Feb 4, 2012 | 06:15 PM
  #30  
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I'm using an oem pillar without a tweeter and notched a big section out of it for everything to fit through. The problem on mine is the pillar pod isn't molded for a good fit.

It's painted and 3M taped to the other pillar and I'm starting the wiring tonight.
 
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