considering selling my truck
Like I said this wasn't going to be a should I sell my truck thread, but it ended up being one. I'm going to retype the list the way I had it the first time and ask the question I originally started this thread to ask.
Would rather a 6spd but just seem to be too much out of my price range, but if I come across one I could afford, sure.
Ok, well here is the thread the way I first thought of it.
This is what I plan on doing as far as taking stuff off the truck or leaving it. Give opinions on what I should do. I'm going to try to divide this list up the best I can.
1) Body work - I had all rust panels replaced when I first bought the truck and whole truck was painted except the roof and tailgate single stage. Now here is what's wrong.
-The roof could use new paint, pretty faded.
-Two dents on the driver side, I'm not worried about these.
-The passenger bed is bad scratches down to primer, pics on post #7 here https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...d-bad-day.html Do you think I should have that and the roof taken care of first?
2) Lift, Rims, Tires
-Really considering taking the lift off. (3" TGC spacer, 1.5" blocks)
-If I did, how easy/hard would it be. I had someone else install it.
-If I did I would put the stock rims and 265/75 16 toyo open county A/T with about 20% tread back on, what was there when I got it.
-What do you think I should ask for my rims/tires 16x8 dick cepek torque rims rapped in 285/75 16 nitto terra grapplers only about 4000 miles on both.
3) Other things
-custom center console https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...s-of-pics.html Think I'm going to take it out and put the stock seat back in and offer to sell it to the buyer, if they don't want it sell it elsewhere.
-The subs, sub box, towing mirrors, and speakers I will take for another truck for me.
-The toolbox will stay because I had to mount it will 3 bolts on each side, it will look stupid without it.
-The exhaust will stay
-7" flip out radio will probably stay, I lost my stock one.
-K&N CIA I think I will sell that.
-After market tail lights will stay on the truck, threw out stocks.
I think I got everything on here.
This is what I plan on doing as far as taking stuff off the truck or leaving it. Give opinions on what I should do. I'm going to try to divide this list up the best I can.
1) Body work - I had all rust panels replaced when I first bought the truck and whole truck was painted except the roof and tailgate single stage. Now here is what's wrong.
-The roof could use new paint, pretty faded.
-Two dents on the driver side, I'm not worried about these.
-The passenger bed is bad scratches down to primer, pics on post #7 here https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...d-bad-day.html Do you think I should have that and the roof taken care of first?
2) Lift, Rims, Tires
-Really considering taking the lift off. (3" TGC spacer, 1.5" blocks)
-If I did, how easy/hard would it be. I had someone else install it.
-If I did I would put the stock rims and 265/75 16 toyo open county A/T with about 20% tread back on, what was there when I got it.
-What do you think I should ask for my rims/tires 16x8 dick cepek torque rims rapped in 285/75 16 nitto terra grapplers only about 4000 miles on both.
3) Other things
-custom center console https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...s-of-pics.html Think I'm going to take it out and put the stock seat back in and offer to sell it to the buyer, if they don't want it sell it elsewhere.
-The subs, sub box, towing mirrors, and speakers I will take for another truck for me.
-The toolbox will stay because I had to mount it will 3 bolts on each side, it will look stupid without it.
-The exhaust will stay
-7" flip out radio will probably stay, I lost my stock one.
-K&N CIA I think I will sell that.
-After market tail lights will stay on the truck, threw out stocks.
I think I got everything on here.
get a sport model CTD. I would go with either a 2001 5-spd, or a 2001 6-spd and change the injection pump to a SOVP44 if the pump ever dies. 6-spd has the HOVP44 which from the factory has more hp/tq, but once you start doing performance mods it has trouble getting past the 500hp barrier. SOVP44 has no trouble getting past that mark and beyond.
also do yourself a favor, if you get a 99-01 check the block number (found on drivers side just above the oil pan towards the center of the block...1" tall raised numbering)
if its a 53 block, be aware that this particular block is prone to cracking on the passenger side in the water jacket due to a weak casting. 55 blocks are ideal.
That said, my truck has a 53 block and it has not cracked yet (223k miles) but a lot of guys have had their 53 blocks crack and leak coolant. there is a repair method should it ever crack but its just something you should keep in mind before purchasing.
also do yourself a favor, if you get a 99-01 check the block number (found on drivers side just above the oil pan towards the center of the block...1" tall raised numbering)
if its a 53 block, be aware that this particular block is prone to cracking on the passenger side in the water jacket due to a weak casting. 55 blocks are ideal.
That said, my truck has a 53 block and it has not cracked yet (223k miles) but a lot of guys have had their 53 blocks crack and leak coolant. there is a repair method should it ever crack but its just something you should keep in mind before purchasing.
Well the stuff I said I'm taking for me for another truck, the amp and speakers are my uncles, can't sell those and the subs and sub box, I won't get enough for. Just to go buy them all again.
get a sport model CTD. I would go with either a 2001 5-spd, or a 2001 6-spd and change the injection pump to a SOVP44 if the pump ever dies. 6-spd has the HOVP44 which from the factory has more hp/tq, but once you start doing performance mods it has trouble getting past the 500hp barrier. SOVP44 has no trouble getting past that mark and beyond.
also do yourself a favor, if you get a 99-01 check the block number (found on drivers side just above the oil pan towards the center of the block...1" tall raised numbering)
if its a 53 block, be aware that this particular block is prone to cracking on the passenger side in the water jacket due to a weak casting. 55 blocks are ideal.
That said, my truck has a 53 block and it has not cracked yet (223k miles) but a lot of guys have had their 53 blocks crack and leak coolant. there is a repair method should it ever crack but its just something you should keep in mind before purchasing.
also do yourself a favor, if you get a 99-01 check the block number (found on drivers side just above the oil pan towards the center of the block...1" tall raised numbering)
if its a 53 block, be aware that this particular block is prone to cracking on the passenger side in the water jacket due to a weak casting. 55 blocks are ideal.
That said, my truck has a 53 block and it has not cracked yet (223k miles) but a lot of guys have had their 53 blocks crack and leak coolant. there is a repair method should it ever crack but its just something you should keep in mind before purchasing.
ROFL....
2) Lift, Rims, Tires
-Really considering taking the lift off. (3" TGC spacer, 1.5" blocks)
-If I did, how easy/hard would it be. I had someone else install it.
-If I did I would put the stock rims and 265/75 16 toyo open county A/T with about 20% tread back on, what was there when I got it.
-What do you think I should ask for my rims/tires 16x8 dick cepek torque rims rapped in 285/75 16 nitto terra grapplers only about 4000 miles on both.
I am looking to put wheels similar to those on mine - sell them to me cheap!
2) Lift, Rims, Tires
-Really considering taking the lift off. (3" TGC spacer, 1.5" blocks)
-If I did, how easy/hard would it be. I had someone else install it.
-If I did I would put the stock rims and 265/75 16 toyo open county A/T with about 20% tread back on, what was there when I got it.
-What do you think I should ask for my rims/tires 16x8 dick cepek torque rims rapped in 285/75 16 nitto terra grapplers only about 4000 miles on both.
I am looking to put wheels similar to those on mine - sell them to me cheap!






