Can someone double check this wiring for me?
I am once again thinking about converting to sport headlight and wanted to put hids in the extra bulbs' place and put them on a separate switch than the regular headlights so I dont have to mess with the stock wiring. Does this look like it'll work? Also what gauge wire should I use and what amp fuse?
It looks like it should work, if you get a switch that has an indicator built into it like mine you can just run it straight to the relay or whatever and not have to worry about an extra ground. You shouldn't need to pipe your switch to the fuse box since it hardly has any current running through it because of the relay. I think you can use a 30 amp relay.
I am running 100w driving lights on my setup which is dual hot's, dual cold's, running 14ga wires. 15 or 20 amp fuses, I forget which, I had switched them out when I did the change over from 55w lights. I've also got that same fuse in a fuse holder going to the relay from the battery.
Granted, this is for 200 watts of power, so you could prolly back your's down a little bit. But the concept should be the same.
Remember, GROUND GROUND GROUND!
I am running 100w driving lights on my setup which is dual hot's, dual cold's, running 14ga wires. 15 or 20 amp fuses, I forget which, I had switched them out when I did the change over from 55w lights. I've also got that same fuse in a fuse holder going to the relay from the battery.
Granted, this is for 200 watts of power, so you could prolly back your's down a little bit. But the concept should be the same.
Remember, GROUND GROUND GROUND!
i wouldn't use a fuse between the battery and terminal 3. i would use a Stud Type Circuit. they are fairly cheap and if you ever overload the circuit they will reset themselves when they cool off were if you have a fuse you need to replace it. this is not as important with lights as it would be with something like trailer brakes but it is still a good idea. also if you were going to put in a optional indicator light i would hook it up to terminal 87 on the relay. then you know if the relay is allowing power to get to the ballasts.
yes I hadn't thought of that but I guess it makes more sense that way




