Lifts
#11
Quit your ASSuming stuff and root out their conundrum.
Honestly I don't know. Only have an ORE and only look to answer specifics for an ORE.
I vaguely recall someone (maybe zman) saying that the control arms were longer or are 2500 arms. I've never had a need to confirm and deny. From my recent arm builds I randomly for the heck of it measured the upper arm on bolt length to be 17". Tossed the lower long time ago so I don't know.
Visually the pitman arm was different in girth....lol no clue about length or drop as again no reason to go compare to non-ORE.
Honestly I don't know. Only have an ORE and only look to answer specifics for an ORE.
I vaguely recall someone (maybe zman) saying that the control arms were longer or are 2500 arms. I've never had a need to confirm and deny. From my recent arm builds I randomly for the heck of it measured the upper arm on bolt length to be 17". Tossed the lower long time ago so I don't know.
Visually the pitman arm was different in girth....lol no clue about length or drop as again no reason to go compare to non-ORE.
#12
#15
I was wrong for the one I had, it is 17.25"
Glad someone has access to measure these things in their own hands.
Curious though as to why the part numbers are different between the 1500 (Lt duty 4wd) and others (med. duty 4wd and HD duty 4wd)?
Since the coil springs are different between a ORE and standard 1500, has anyone been able to determine/decode the part number? I recall there was a spring discussion that maybe it was Jimythefan trying to figure part numbers and springs?
In any case, adding a 2" level to the ORE springs is not detrimental by any means in the context that the other components are in "sound" condition and an alignment is done. The 3" height is just a general trend b/c lift companies made that a "standard". That's my from the exact experience of my ORE rig is all.
#16
Sorry it's taken me a while to reply guys. Basically the goal with either one is to change the way my truck sits. The truck is still rear end high since it's stock suspension (aside from shocks) so I want to get it sitting level. My tires do rub just a tiny bit on my upper control arm but only at full lock and I'm pretty sure that's just because my rims have essentially 0 back spacing. Either way I go I'm pretty sure it'll fix it because the lift kit I'm looking at has new control arms that are rounded rather than lipped like the stock arms, and if I go leveling kit it would mean rims too (in a few months) which would also get rid of the rub. Rub really isn't an issue though, I went off roading a few weeks ago and had no problems, I just want to change the stance. Basically since the 3 inch lift only adds one it would just be replacing the control arms and maybe the Pitman arm if I'm remembering right and leveling it. I just need to know if I should spend the extra money to have that replaced to make it level.
#17
Welcome back and as you can see, you'll get a myriad of responses in terms of effort, cost, performance, looks, etc. This becomes even more subjective given that your goal is "stance".
You have options though, which is good. Meaning you are not backed into a corner, especially an expensive corner like cracked heads...
So I'll just speak to your current situation as we don't know what the possibility is down the road. I only bring that up because often times people will address a need now, only to then not long later realize they should have done something else resulting in "paying 2x/doing it >2x etc."
It's up to you on how comfortable you are with rubbing tires. The stock control arms have those lips that could cut when going in reverse.
With your 3" BL already on there, you can add the 2" level but get an alignment. It's debatable that you're at 4" lift (2" ORE + 2" level), but you'll be > 3" for sure. This will impact track bar, this will impact steering, and the stock shocks.
Going to a 3" kit will resolve most of those things. It comes down to the quality of the kit you pick. Alot of people here can provide some insight on those as I did custom. With any kit though, your springs are completely replaced. No more ORE coil springs.
With either of these options and you say you're going offroad (what kind? dirt roads/rocks?), the 2 things I would highly recommend changing is adjustable track bar and wheels that have at least 4.5" backspacing. Stock wheels are 5.5". I mentioned before that in my profile (click username) find my photo albums and you'll see some pictures showing clearances for 33" and 35" tire, with and w/o 3" bl, then adding 2.5" level. Wheels are 4.5" BS.
Good luck!
You have options though, which is good. Meaning you are not backed into a corner, especially an expensive corner like cracked heads...
So I'll just speak to your current situation as we don't know what the possibility is down the road. I only bring that up because often times people will address a need now, only to then not long later realize they should have done something else resulting in "paying 2x/doing it >2x etc."
It's up to you on how comfortable you are with rubbing tires. The stock control arms have those lips that could cut when going in reverse.
With your 3" BL already on there, you can add the 2" level but get an alignment. It's debatable that you're at 4" lift (2" ORE + 2" level), but you'll be > 3" for sure. This will impact track bar, this will impact steering, and the stock shocks.
Going to a 3" kit will resolve most of those things. It comes down to the quality of the kit you pick. Alot of people here can provide some insight on those as I did custom. With any kit though, your springs are completely replaced. No more ORE coil springs.
With either of these options and you say you're going offroad (what kind? dirt roads/rocks?), the 2 things I would highly recommend changing is adjustable track bar and wheels that have at least 4.5" backspacing. Stock wheels are 5.5". I mentioned before that in my profile (click username) find my photo albums and you'll see some pictures showing clearances for 33" and 35" tire, with and w/o 3" bl, then adding 2.5" level. Wheels are 4.5" BS.
Good luck!
Sorry it's taken me a while to reply guys. Basically the goal with either one is to change the way my truck sits. The truck is still rear end high since it's stock suspension (aside from shocks) so I want to get it sitting level. My tires do rub just a tiny bit on my upper control arm but only at full lock and I'm pretty sure that's just because my rims have essentially 0 back spacing. Either way I go I'm pretty sure it'll fix it because the lift kit I'm looking at has new control arms that are rounded rather than lipped like the stock arms, and if I go leveling kit it would mean rims too (in a few months) which would also get rid of the rub. Rub really isn't an issue though, I went off roading a few weeks ago and had no problems, I just want to change the stance. Basically since the 3 inch lift only adds one it would just be replacing the control arms and maybe the Pitman arm if I'm remembering right and leveling it. I just need to know if I should spend the extra money to have that replaced to make it level.
#19
I personally like mine. Haven't had a single issue and it rides like it did with just the suspension lift. You cant really tell it has a body lift unless I told the person. I love the extra room between the cab and frame when I have to work on the truck.
#20
Mine was put on by the owner before me and I definitely like it, but if I had to do it again I'd probably do a 2 inch one instead of 3. With mine being ORE you can really see the skid plates and to me I can notice it fairly easy. It's one of those things where I notice it because it's my truck. Probably wouldn't notice if it was someone else's. Ride is great though, no performance issues. I feel like body lists have a somewhat bad reputation. They're no substitute for a suspension lift, but if you're not a serious off roader they're okay.