New Guy Here. 2001 Ram Off Road
#11
07-02-2014, 07:38 PM
Thank you man!
I live in Indiana though, we get our share of snow and this truck is far from rust free(the rust just isn't super visible in the photos). Even here in the midwest it's hard to find a rust free trucks, I can't imagine how difficult it would be up there.
#12
07-04-2014, 11:52 AM
Champion
#13
07-04-2014, 12:04 PM
Captain
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Northern Ontario
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I've seen 2012 rams/chevys/fords have as much rust as yours, if it gives you an idea. Lol.
#14
07-15-2014, 12:29 AM
Missed this thread until today.
Congrats on the ORE!
From one '01 ORE owner to another, here's some things I've learned that hopefully will help you out:
-Cooper Discoverer AT3s are great! I have a set. I chose Load Range E, 285/70-R17s. Gives a stiff ride (which I prefer), but going forward I'd get a load range D set so I don't jounce my passengers to death!
-Stick with a Mopar PCV valve. Aftermarket ones may not have the same flow rating (as I've read on here). Can consume excess oil.
-Check your Trak Lock clutch pack closely when you pull the diff cover!! Unless it has been rebuilt already, you are right at the mileage where the clutch packs will start fracturing and the retaining clips will break (if they haven't already). If you find bits at the bottom of the pumpkin, you'll know. Some continue to drive the truck without them, but in my experience don't wait to get it fixed. Not worth ruining a gear set or all the bearings. My gear oil drained out and was full of metal flakes and shards of pieces of the clutch pack. This was only a couple days after I noticed a few quiet clunks... Pretty much all they could save on mine was the ring and pinion... and we won't talk about the cost unless you're curious. I had a great warranty that covered the repair! (more on that later)
Check out this article on the clutch pack matter if you feel confident to rebuild the clutch pack yourself before you know what hits the fan:
http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/1011or-rebuilding-a-limited-slip-differential-dana-trac-lok/
Parts, oil, and additive are about $100 +/- last I checked. WAAAAAYYYY cheaper than a full rebuild.
-Change your transfer case fluid. It's often neglected. It's a 10mm hex or allen key for both drain and fill plugs. SAVE TIME and don't pull the skid plate: you can't just drain into a drain pan on the floor without making a mess because of a cross member and ORE skid plate. I use a shallow plastic container that has a decent foot print, and i stick it between the skid plate and transfer case to catch the fluid. Keep your normal drain pan close, so you don't have to move far to dump your shallow pan. Takes about 1.25 quarts of ATF +4 just like the transmission. NOT gear lube. Of course, always loosen the "fill" plug first.
-If you're on the factory shocks they are probably due for a replacement. PAY ATTENTION to replacement part numbers. While some on here say that standard length shocks would work in a ORE, some manufacturers actually sell specific shocks for our ORE trucks for the same price. Call them if you are unsure. I purchased a complete set of Rancho RS5000s made for the OREs for like $120ish and I'm satisfied especially for the price. I wish I would have clear coated them before installation. They rusted through their factory white paint fast!
-Good choice on the Champion plugs. Lots of people are skeptical of Champions, but that's what is Factory Mopar and preferred for these Magnum engines. I used to use a different brand copper core, and my truck ran like crap and was misfiring badly after a few thousand miles. Got fed up, and went to the dealer for OEM Mopar Plugs (champs), wires, cap and rotor. There was a noticeable difference in the spark plug electrode height between the aftermarket plugs and the Champions. Part number wasn't wrong either. Truck ran great after the service.
-Buy a set of headlight lenses off ebay. Get the factory looking lenses (there's a bunch of goofy looking aftermarket ones available). I did this, and while installing them was a royal pain in the butt, they look great with a set of Silverstar Ultras. I think I dropped about $80 on the set, and they included new mounting frames, no-name headlight bulbs, and turn signal lenses also.
-Power Steering flush. I'll let you decide how you want to do this, but I prefer the turkey baster method. Get a cheap turkey baster, (label it not for kitchen!) and with engine off, draw out the old fluid from the reservoir. Refill it to the full line with fresh fluid. Drive the truck steering lock to lock a few times, shut truck off, drain the reservoir, refill it with fresh fluid, drive it again... etc. Keep doing this until the fluid comes out clean. This will take several cycles. Don't leave the engine running when you drain and refill the reservoir or you'll get to learn how to purge air from the system or worse how to change a PS pump.
-Transmission drop and fill. Don't have a flush done at any shop, regardless of what the techs say. There's plenty of guides online for a drop and fill on the 46RE, so I won't elaborate.
PHEW! Doesn't encompass everything, but it sure will keep you busy with the new truck. If you don't have the bones for all the work at one time, save and do it a little at a time. That's what I did, mainly because I didn't have much free time.
The absolute best decision I made when I bought mine was that I bought a 4 year FORD warranty (bought it used through a Ford dealership). Saved me a lot of money in the end and the Ford warranty was top notch and hassle free. I couldn't tell you if any other warranties are comparable.
-JT
Congrats on the ORE!
From one '01 ORE owner to another, here's some things I've learned that hopefully will help you out:
-Cooper Discoverer AT3s are great! I have a set. I chose Load Range E, 285/70-R17s. Gives a stiff ride (which I prefer), but going forward I'd get a load range D set so I don't jounce my passengers to death!
-Stick with a Mopar PCV valve. Aftermarket ones may not have the same flow rating (as I've read on here). Can consume excess oil.
-Check your Trak Lock clutch pack closely when you pull the diff cover!! Unless it has been rebuilt already, you are right at the mileage where the clutch packs will start fracturing and the retaining clips will break (if they haven't already). If you find bits at the bottom of the pumpkin, you'll know. Some continue to drive the truck without them, but in my experience don't wait to get it fixed. Not worth ruining a gear set or all the bearings. My gear oil drained out and was full of metal flakes and shards of pieces of the clutch pack. This was only a couple days after I noticed a few quiet clunks... Pretty much all they could save on mine was the ring and pinion... and we won't talk about the cost unless you're curious. I had a great warranty that covered the repair! (more on that later)
Check out this article on the clutch pack matter if you feel confident to rebuild the clutch pack yourself before you know what hits the fan:
http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/1011or-rebuilding-a-limited-slip-differential-dana-trac-lok/
Parts, oil, and additive are about $100 +/- last I checked. WAAAAAYYYY cheaper than a full rebuild.
-Change your transfer case fluid. It's often neglected. It's a 10mm hex or allen key for both drain and fill plugs. SAVE TIME and don't pull the skid plate: you can't just drain into a drain pan on the floor without making a mess because of a cross member and ORE skid plate. I use a shallow plastic container that has a decent foot print, and i stick it between the skid plate and transfer case to catch the fluid. Keep your normal drain pan close, so you don't have to move far to dump your shallow pan. Takes about 1.25 quarts of ATF +4 just like the transmission. NOT gear lube. Of course, always loosen the "fill" plug first.
-If you're on the factory shocks they are probably due for a replacement. PAY ATTENTION to replacement part numbers. While some on here say that standard length shocks would work in a ORE, some manufacturers actually sell specific shocks for our ORE trucks for the same price. Call them if you are unsure. I purchased a complete set of Rancho RS5000s made for the OREs for like $120ish and I'm satisfied especially for the price. I wish I would have clear coated them before installation. They rusted through their factory white paint fast!
-Good choice on the Champion plugs. Lots of people are skeptical of Champions, but that's what is Factory Mopar and preferred for these Magnum engines. I used to use a different brand copper core, and my truck ran like crap and was misfiring badly after a few thousand miles. Got fed up, and went to the dealer for OEM Mopar Plugs (champs), wires, cap and rotor. There was a noticeable difference in the spark plug electrode height between the aftermarket plugs and the Champions. Part number wasn't wrong either. Truck ran great after the service.
-Buy a set of headlight lenses off ebay. Get the factory looking lenses (there's a bunch of goofy looking aftermarket ones available). I did this, and while installing them was a royal pain in the butt, they look great with a set of Silverstar Ultras. I think I dropped about $80 on the set, and they included new mounting frames, no-name headlight bulbs, and turn signal lenses also.
-Power Steering flush. I'll let you decide how you want to do this, but I prefer the turkey baster method. Get a cheap turkey baster, (label it not for kitchen!) and with engine off, draw out the old fluid from the reservoir. Refill it to the full line with fresh fluid. Drive the truck steering lock to lock a few times, shut truck off, drain the reservoir, refill it with fresh fluid, drive it again... etc. Keep doing this until the fluid comes out clean. This will take several cycles. Don't leave the engine running when you drain and refill the reservoir or you'll get to learn how to purge air from the system or worse how to change a PS pump.
-Transmission drop and fill. Don't have a flush done at any shop, regardless of what the techs say. There's plenty of guides online for a drop and fill on the 46RE, so I won't elaborate.
PHEW! Doesn't encompass everything, but it sure will keep you busy with the new truck. If you don't have the bones for all the work at one time, save and do it a little at a time. That's what I did, mainly because I didn't have much free time.
The absolute best decision I made when I bought mine was that I bought a 4 year FORD warranty (bought it used through a Ford dealership). Saved me a lot of money in the end and the Ford warranty was top notch and hassle free. I couldn't tell you if any other warranties are comparable.
-JT
#15
01-25-2015, 01:39 PM
