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Old Jan 17, 2015 | 12:00 PM
  #111  
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I'm not sure how much difference there is between carfax and autocheck, but anyone can run an autocheck for free with a little creative googling.
If you search "dealer autocheck inurl:vin" the top result for me is a dealership named chilson wilcox. Click their link and you'll see an autocheck report. In the url, simply replace the displayed VIN with the one you want to search and refresh for a free report on your own truck or one you're wanting to research.
I've been looking recently, and found several trucks that looked like good deals until I ran an autocheck and found accidents, mileage discrepancies, rebuilt status, etc.
 
Old Jan 17, 2015 | 02:45 PM
  #112  
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What you have planned to be Tig'ed man?

I personally like Miller/Hobart stuff. Consider selling the Lincoln and getting a larger rated combo machine?

As for bender, I only have experience with the JD2 M32 bender. Those seem to be more plentiful in my circles.


Originally Posted by Wildman4x4nut
In the next 2-4 weeks I am going to be buying some longtime wanted tools for my garage. I am going to get a Tig welder and a Plasma Cutter. Right now I have Lincoln 170 mig welder, Miller buzz box and a Craftsman 60 gal compressor. So adding those two items will be nice for the times I am working on something. If I have enough left over I am also going to get a tube bender. So I have been looking at this Tig/Plasma combo from Eastwood http://www.eastwood.....html?reltype=3 what does everyone think of this setup? Good? Bad? Indifferent? If there are better combo's out there let me know. Or if you would just get a different setup tell me the whys & what nots. And then for a bender I was looking at this from Pro Bender http://www.probender...lic-tube-bender .
Give me feedback on this type of bender too. I don't have a lot of room left in my garage so I need something compact. Also I don't have a place to bolt a bender to the floor so that is why I am looking at this style.

So fire away everyone let's hear what you have to say.
 
Old Jan 17, 2015 | 03:09 PM
  #113  
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Originally Posted by Rebel541
I'm not sure how much difference there is between carfax and autocheck, but anyone can run an autocheck for free with a little creative googling.
If you search "dealer autocheck inurl:vin" the top result for me is a dealership named chilson wilcox. Click their link and you'll see an autocheck report. In the url, simply replace the displayed VIN with the one you want to search and refresh for a free report on your own truck or one you're wanting to research.
I've been looking recently, and found several trucks that looked like good deals until I ran an autocheck and found accidents, mileage discrepancies, rebuilt status, etc.
thanks for the info bud! i never knew that.... 'preciate it!
 
Old Jan 17, 2015 | 04:31 PM
  #114  
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Originally Posted by Ham Bone
Relay Setup built.

Faintly lit is the dash light.

Did not replace bulbs? Does that matter? I used Jason's write up in the diy section as a Guide.
It seems very, very likely that you've got a miswire there. If you're wired for 9007 lamps but have 9004's, or vice versa, you'll get the dimly lit high beam indicator when low beam is selected. I've got to get on the road fifteen minutes ago so I don't have time to dig into the schematics to puzzle out the fog lamp involvement, but it seems a good wager that correcting the miswire will fix that, too.



A voltmeter, or even just a light-up probe, and the drawing above should be enough to get you going on the path to puzzling out the problem. You should see battery voltage from the ground pin to the low beam pin when low beam is selected, and from the ground pin to the high beam pin when high beam is selected. Don't measure from chassis ground -- measure from the connector ground pin.
 
Old Jan 17, 2015 | 05:04 PM
  #115  
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Originally Posted by UnregisteredUser
It seems very, very likely that you've got a miswire there. If you're wired for 9007 lamps but have 9004's, or vice versa, you'll get the dimly lit high beam indicator when low beam is selected. I've got to get on the road fifteen minutes ago so I don't have time to dig into the schematics to puzzle out the fog lamp involvement, but it seems a good wager that correcting the miswire will fix that, too.



A voltmeter, or even just a light-up probe, and the drawing above should be enough to get you going on the path to puzzling out the problem. You should see battery voltage from the ground pin to the low beam pin when low beam is selected, and from the ground pin to the high beam pin when high beam is selected. Don't measure from chassis ground -- measure from the connector ground pin.

Ok so the low beams are wired like a 9004. But when I switch to High beams it's running as a 9007?


So I have my high beam wire and my ground switched?
 
Old Jan 18, 2015 | 12:11 AM
  #116  
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Originally Posted by Ham Bone
So I have my high beam wire and my ground switched?
If you've managed to wire correctly for 9007's then all three are wrong, but if you've wired something else the only way to know is to measure voltages. Just moving wires around would be kinda silly -- there are six permutations, so there are five left to try.

What I'd do would be to unplug both headlamps and measure to see what's where. You can use an ohmmeter or continuity tester to find the grounds, since they're tied (or at least were, originally, tied) to the chassis. That just leaves you two wires to sort. Turn on the low beams, and see which of the two remaining pins have battery voltage, and that's your low beam conductor. Just to confirm, pop the high beams on and ensure that you find battery voltage on the remaining pin, and nothing (open circuit) on the one that you identified as low beam.

If you don't have a multimeter you can get by with a test light, if you're careful not to create any shorts that will open fuses or smoke conductors or connector pins. Again, unplug both headlamps, and put the low beams on. Hang the ground of the test light on a good ground, and find the low beam pin. Then turn on high beams, and find the high beam pin. The one remaining is your ground. You can confirm by hooking the test light ground to the one you've identified as ground, and probing the pins for low and high with the corresponding function turned on.

Though you don't absolutely have to do the final verification step in either procedure, you should go ahead and do it anyway. I would, anyway, even though I've got many years of professional experience futzing around with electricity. Ya just never know when a thinko is going to happen, and the verification step will keep you from getting bit too hard by it.
 
Old Jan 18, 2015 | 12:55 AM
  #117  
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Originally Posted by HeyYou
Links aren't working?
Sorry

Originally Posted by snowboundrmk
When it comes to plasma cutters I hear hypertherm is the one to have.
That is what I am hearing too.

Originally Posted by Wh1t3NuKle
What you have planned to be Tig'ed man?

I personally like Miller/Hobart stuff. Consider selling the Lincoln and getting a larger rated combo machine?

As for bender, I only have experience with the JD2 M32 bender. Those seem to be more plentiful in my circles.

Ya the Miller/Hobart stuff is out of my price range. What do I have to Tig? Heck I don't know I just have always wanted one so I am going to get one.

As for a bender yes JD2 M32 benders are very popular but I don't have the room for one. But I think I have found the one I want. So what dye's would you buy first? 1" -1 1/2" -1 3/4" ? And then what size? I know I will buy more as time goes on but got to start somewhere.
 
Old Jan 18, 2015 | 10:17 AM
  #118  
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Originally Posted by UnregisteredUser
It seems very, very likely that you've got a miswire there. If you're wired for 9007 lamps but have 9004's, or vice versa, you'll get the dimly lit high beam indicator when low beam is selected. I've got to get on the road fifteen minutes ago so I don't have time to dig into the schematics to puzzle out the fog lamp involvement, but it seems a good wager that correcting the miswire will fix that, too.



A voltmeter, or even just a light-up probe, and the drawing above should be enough to get you going on the path to puzzling out the problem. You should see battery voltage from the ground pin to the low beam pin when low beam is selected, and from the ground pin to the high beam pin when high beam is selected. Don't measure from chassis ground -- measure from the connector ground pin.
actually, that wiring diagram is completely wrong... having had to install my plow wiring harness when i bought it, i have the correct wiring diagram.

to make things easier for fisher, the vehicle light harness is set up for 9004, and 9007 bulbs, but its prewired for 9007 at the factory.

here is the correct harness wiring diagram, and what wires you need to move around.

edit: you have the pinouts backwards on the 9007 bulb.

Name:  fisherwiring.png
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Old Jan 18, 2015 | 04:31 PM
  #119  
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Originally Posted by redneck_ram
edit: you have the pinouts backwards on the 9007 bulb.
Good catch! I didn't scrutinize the image the way I should have when I borrowed it from some random web site.

I apologize to all for my carelessness.
 
Old Jan 18, 2015 | 08:01 PM
  #120  
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Now I'm just more confused haha
 



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