i know mine has alittle gear and then a sensor on it and as far as the crossmemeber goes mine u can slide the trans forward or backward like 2 inch if u wanted to dont know where urs mounts but u could make that work easy u going to need a flywheel and bolts i think the flywheel is like around 11 inchs u going to need the hole clutch slave clyinder thing which is also nice because it is all one assembley and dosnt have to be bleed it shouldnt be to bad i think the only work u would really have to do is get the trans and engine to line up and a custom driveshaft mabe u might want to put a high gear ratio in the rear end with a posi if u dont already have it in there and i know ta perfromance sells a rear girdle diff cover i have it

 

The slave and master are in one easy to transfer unit? Ill have to find a flywheel, and custom make a pilot bearing either way. The driveshaft will have to be cut and fit. As far as the rear goes, the 3.55 will stay till the winter. Summer I do a lot of highway driving, so id rather keep the 1200 rpm on the highway while I need it. So, now im going to make a list of parts I NEED for the swap, and anyone who has parts to add or subtract from the build, please help by adding or subtracting.

Clutch pedal assembally
Master
Slave
Pilot Bearing
5spd Computer
Stick Flywheel
Custom driveshaft

Is that it?

also, are the only 5spd trucks 6 cyl and 5.2's? And ontop of that, are all the motor options internally ballanced??

 

the 5.2 was the only 1500 that came with a stick other than the v-6. if u get the clutch assemlby i is all one unit from the master cylinder down to the slave no bleeders nothin pre bleed if u going for a factory look u would need the 2wd shifter boot and i put a hurst shifter through my factory shifter boot it looks preatty good and performs great i would find a hurst shifter out of the dakota beacuse thats what is in mine and works great u will also need the blank peice in the cluster which is just one screw to get rid of gear selector and a blank to fill the hole in the collum and a blank for the overdrive switch i have one if need it somewhere also u will need the stick crank shaft sensor sence they are diffrent i found that out when autozone gave me the wrong one and it wore a 1/4 inch groove into it what ever wirirng is related to the stick dont know if its any diffrent i got my factory manual so if u need wiring diagrams or anything let me know

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/97-Do...QQcmdZViewItem
theres the pedals

 

thanks. He also has the slave assmb. He wants $75 for it + the 20ish for the pedals, does that sound like a decent price?

as far as the gear selector blockoff plate, ill prolly custom make something that says hurst. Im going with a hurst one way or another, Ill prolly get the sst billet shifter used on the srt10. The stick is gonna be a guess and check kinda thing though. Im also going to try to get a center console from an srt10 and see if it cant fit well, so it gives a more factory look.

 

well these rams cam in stick 2wd so they do make a nice leather boot from the factory and i have the hurst in mine from the dakota it fits preatty well look for a 2wd 94-97 shifter boot i think it will look preatty good that dosnt seem to bad for the pedals and slave assemlby

 

I want to be able to stamp "Indy" on my boot, so Im going to custom make one. Im also thinking I may get the Indy stick from hurst. They make one that is 18" long with a curve that would throw quite nicely, as far as I remember. I like the shifter from the dak. idea, but Im sure it wont bolt to a t56 unfortunately.