..................and with a 3" body lift like I have, there is even more air flow around and into the engine compartment. The only thing I want to try is to run the drivers side crank case vent line up to the Mopar Performance filter assembly because right now I have a push in breather and when it's cold out mine seems to run a bit rough until it's warmed up. This is with a new MAP sensor/ TPS sensor/and a new IAC valve on my new Fastman 50mm TB too.

I think the warm air flow from the crank case vent might help in the morning when it's cold out, but I don't know?

 

I've been running the 14" round filter for about a year and really like it. I can't say it helped mileage, but it did help a little with performance, especially in combination with the other mods. Last fall I took an indoor/outdoor thermometer and taped the sensor to the air filter, ran the wire back to the cab, and was able to observe the air temperature while driving. When sitting at red lights, the temperature will climb quite a bit above the outside air temp, but will definately drop when moving. I played around and folded the flaps down beside the radiator, took some light dryer duct and stuck it in these openings, then ran it back through the engine compartment so it outlets a few inches from the filter. One on each side, similar to the setup that RMIndy (I think) shows on his web site. The difference is that I don't have a closed system. The resulted in quite a reduction in air temperature when moving, and much quicker. Basically, what I'm doing is improving the ventilation in the engine compartment. Actually this winter I felt the truck was running too cool when the temperatures were below 30 F, so I closed up the flaps. I have the 180 thermostat and the truck seemed sluggish when I was pulling in such cold air. IMO, 60 - 70 F is about the optimum air temperature for our truck, so the round filter might actually be a benefit during the winter because it is sucking in the warmer air from the engine compartment.

The only drawback to the dryer hose setup is that it's ugly. I know some guys won't want to do it because of the looks. But it does keep the engine compartment cooler. Plus because it's an open system, it reduces the chance of drawing bugs and water into the filter like other setups.

 

Was there any modification necessary to install the Mopar Performance filter? Or did you just have to stick a bolt in the throttle body and slide the filter over top of it?

 

Search for the thread called "K&N FIPK No More". It will answer all your questions and then some.

 

I've got a Ram with the V10 in it and my TB is on the side of the engine. Is a CAI my only way to go?

 

Ash,
I think I recall reading a rather long thread on the temp. experiments. So what you have done with the dryer hoses is to essentially create a makeshift ram-air system? How are they suspended/fastened inside at the cleaner?
nhlbill,
Couldn't you simply drill a hole in the bottom of the cleaner and install a nipple to accept the hose for the breather? Maybe even with a small spun media filter inside if there was enough room.
WC

 

WayneC
That was my thread on the air temperature experiments. I basically proved to myself that the stock air setup pulled in just as cold of air as the K&N FIPK and other CAI's. I debated what type of intake I wanted for a long time. I couldn't justify the one's in the $300 dollar range. But I knew I didn't like the design of the stock when considering air flow. I occassionaly design water pipeline systems and knew that all the bends and sharp angles of the stock setup is not very efficient from a hydraulics point of view. So even though I knew the round filter would pull in warmer air, I threw $25 at a Mr. Gasket intake and haven't looked back. I've since upgraded the original 2" filter to a 3" and am pleased with the improvements, especially the lowered noise level.

I guess you could call it a ram-air setup. It's similiar to the ductwork that NASCAR uses to cool the brakes on the race cars. When you are moving, air travels through the tubing. I just used the "aluminum foil wrapped around coiled wire" type of dryer tubing. It's flexible, but stays in place. I just used longzip-ties that I wrapped around the tubing and connected to whatever I could in the engine compartment. The pieces are about 4' long and I just stopped them just short of the filter. Like I said, it's ugly, but I don't drive with the hood up, so no one but me knows it's there.

If I remember right though, it did lower the air temperature at the filter by 10 - 20 F. I feel that's enough for me to keep it in place and risk the embarressment in case someone does peek under the hood. Actually I'm enough of a cheapskate, red-neck, country boy that I ought to proud of my riggin. Maybe I'll even apply for a patent.

 

At first I didn't think the original box was too bad. I mean it was straight-in to the TB and it took in cool air from the fender. But after studying it a bit you see the incoming air has to do a 180 up through the filter and then down into the TB. Then the snorkle opening isn't much larger than the combined bores of the TB. But the real restriction, I feel, is after the air does the 180. The passage in the lid to the bore is even smaller than the intake snorkle! That's why the open round filter seems the better choice. Back in the days, we used to flip the lid over on the air cleaner and add a taller filter (the cheap way out) or buy a setup like you have. Curious though why you stayed with the paper filter. Do you feel the K&N types are overrated too? In my view, its alot easier to drop in a new paper filter than to mess with the cleaning and oiling of the permanent ones, and cheaper; lol.

 

I stayed with the paper filter mostly becasue it is the correct size (12.75x2.75). The closest thing K&N makes is 12.50x2.75 or 12.50x2.89. Either would still work (i've seen pics of guys using them in the Mopar assembly I have), but it doesn't fit quite as good. The paper filter that comes with the Mopar air cleaner I have is made by Purolator, so replacements have been easy to find (Advanced Auto Parts sells Purolator parts).