I've been dealing with it for over 2 years but, when the fuel guage reads 1/4 of a tank when I'm really on empty. This happened 6 months after the fuel pump was replaced at the local stealer. Any idea's?

 

The arm on your fuel pump prob got bent when they installed it so the float is sitting higher than it actually is

 

So what would u recommend I do? I know I have to drop the tank but, I don't want to replace the pump.

 

I changed out a fuel assembly on a 1995 about 2 weeks ago.

You don't have to drop the tank.
I took the advice of other Ram owners
and jacked up the cargo box
to get access to the fuel assembly from the top instead.

This turned out much easier than I thought it would.
I did not even need help.

You first take out the three torx head bolts
that hold the gas filler cap box to the cargo box side.

Then I loosened the 3 bolts on the passenger side of the pickup bed
(called a 'cargo box' in Dodge field service manual speak)
and next I removed the three bolts on the driver's side.

I jacked up the bed by placing a scissors jack between
the cargo box and rail just above where the wheel sits.
You need to raise the cargo box about 45 degrees
to get enough 'head room' to get the fuel assembly out.

Put jackstands in between frame and cargo box to safely support it.

I also removed the 65 lb tailgate to make things lighter
but I now believe that was not necessary.

You may want to remove the stuff around the license plate to keep from scratching the cargo box paint if the bumper sits too close. Also pay
attention to the spare tire lowering socket.

It is easy to bend that float arm when you pull the fuel assembly out
or when you put it back in...because the float arm is hidden in the back
and just barely clears the round hole.

Gently hitting the ***** on the big plastic nut
with a long screwdriver and will remove it.

When full the tank sender should read 20 ohms plus/minus 6 ohms.

When empty the tank sender should read 220 ohms plus/minus 6 ohms

If you get corrosion on the electrical plugs the tank sender will read more
than 26 ohms when full and your needle on the fuel gauge won't go as much past 'Full' as when the vehicle was new.

It is easy to break the little grey locking tab on the front electrical plug
and there is also a red locking tag toward the rear that has to be gently pushed over to free the electrical plug to come out.

I also found that my float's resistor at the end of the arm
(tank sender) had a crack in it...that might also be causing your problem.

If you are having to replace the fuel assembly
that 'roll over valve' fitting inside its rubber bushing
is a real pain in the ..... to get out!

To get it out gently without breaking it
I ended up using a dremel tool to split the plastic
on three sides around it so that I could 'peel' the plastic
back and free the roll over valve without damage to re-use.
Most replacement fuel assemblies come without a new roll over valve.

If you are changing the fuel assembly
carefully remove, clean, and save the little plastic
locking tab on the fuel line too.
The new fuel assembly won't have a new one.