Thanks Mopower,,,,,,,,,,, but kind of low balled that cam install a bit dont you think lmao
9-10yr old motor he better put in more parts than just a camwith 480/512 lift orgood chance itsbye byevalves, pistons and heads first 5400rpm shift he makes. Most of the prices below from KRC site.

$329 KRC 206x
$349 KRC spring/retainer kit. .512 exh lift means you cant use stock springs.Kit may include p-rods/lifters as well but doesnt state it on the site.
$35 push rods
$85 double roller timing set (100 for better set)
$150 mplifters
$85 Hughes plenum kit cause if its not leaking now it will after lol
$130 oil/gaskets/coolant/sealant
$450 B&G flash
$50 having a shop set the fuel sync. (unless you have a snap on scan tool)
Dont forget to add shipping to those parts above as well

Some other items that will be needed
$500 headers
$350 higher stall torque convertor. Stall shouldbe 500rpms below wherepeak torque is made.

Going used on a lot of those parts (if low mileage parts) could save 50% or morebut you may not get what you bargained for.

 

It's a fault that I have when it comes to modding. It's part of the 'justification in one's own mind' thing I guess. I'll tell you how bad it is- [sm=alcoholic.gif]I have a 408 install priced out at $4000

 

Haha, or is it your just hiding the cost from your wife?

 

Well if im going to pull out my TB and Intake Manifold i mine as well do some more stuff while its out? what do you reccomend? The RR's or the Cam? Maybe a new timing chain cause i heard those get bad. I will also buy the highes plenum kit while im at it. Is there anything else i should get or know while i have it torn apart?

 

Busted again.

You will be way happier with the cam. If you can swing the cost, everything RM_Indy listed,double roller timing chain, water pump, and oil pump drive shaft. You will get by cheaper if you buy the springs, pushrods, etc. from Hughes. Do not buy a cam from them. I went through a nightmare w/ one of thier grinds, and have read that others experienced the same thing. RM_Indy, you dodged a bullet on that deal (HER1828). If you do put a cam in,put a reference mark on the cam sensor directly below the rotor button. I used a makeshift sort of plumbline to do this. When you put it back together, line the button up with the reference. This will but you extremely close, if not dead nuts on, with fuel sync.For some reason with Comp grinds (KRC uses Comp), the slot on the oil pump drive will end up slightly skewed from its
original position. For this reason, referencing the distributor housing will not work.

 

Okay heres a stupid question. Where is the cam located in my truck??? Also is it a DIY job? Hard or easy.... Just want future reference... Man u 2 r really good help w/o yall i prob wouldnt have my truck in good shape...

 

Its behind the water pump in the block. If you have cable or dsl download this:

http://www.samkline.com/filehosting....ad&key=198

It is the service manual for your truck and will explain everything.

The file was posted courtesy of Steve05Ram360.

 

hey guys a quick question what is the M1 flash from B&G i have no clue what that is can you please tell me thanks alot i really appreciate it

 

http://www.bgperformancepcm.com/

 

hey man thanks alot i just havefew small mods but just looking for something that will set me aprt from the other dodges with out going over board. dont have alot of money to play with do you think this would the best way to go to as in power for the money thanks alot sorry for getting of subject i really apreciate it