Hello everyone,

I'm new to this forum and a new Dodge owner. I've never owned a Dodge before this one. I just bought a 1999 Dodge Ram 1500 ext. cab, 5.2, 2WD. The truck has 114,000 miles on it with just a few minor issues such as alignment, tires, and the couple of problems below. Still a good deal for $6,000, I think.

I've read a good bit of the posts here and found some very useful information. I have the AC / Cruise Control problem and I found a hole in the vacuum line running to the cruise control. I replaced the bad section of hose, but still have the problem. I guess Ineed to see about that check valve.

Another problem I'm having is the ABS and "Brake" light coming on. When I crank it up, everything fine. I pull out of the driveway and go down the road at about 25 MPH for a little way and everything is still fine. I pull out onto the main highway and get up to 45 or so and both the ABS and the "Brake" light on the dash come on. They stay on until I stop, turn the engine off and start all over, then the same thing. I don't see any vacuum hoses going to the ABS module, so I don't think this is related to the vacuum issue.

Oh yeah, when I step on the gas, it sounds like a sucking sound like from a carbed engine running with no air filter on top of the carb. Is it supposed to sound like this?

Can someone shed some light on these issues?

Thanks a ton,
Jim

 

First off, sell your rig, you'll just hate it, j/k

If you have the stock airbox it may be missing the gasket around the airbox seat on top of the tb and it's sucking air around it.
Also, sometimes the ab isn't seated properly.

As far as the ABS goes, take off the drums and clean the complete assembly with brake cleaner.

You may need a ABS speed sensor or wheel sensor. The codes may be stored, have them pulled.

 

My 98 Dodge Ram 5.9L 350 sport (250,000 miles) has the same ABS light issue. Dont sweat it. They come on and stay on. Dont know exactly why this happens. Heard that its something to do with a sensor in the rear axle. Mines been on for the last 100,000 miles.

Your sucking noise from the Throttle Body(TB) concerns me more:

Clean the TB and make sure the IAC ( a little piston driven controller on the back of the TB) is clean. This requires you to take the filter off,TB off(4 bolts) and IAC(2 screws). Use any carb cleaner you want. An old toothbrush works well. Disconnect the wires and a couple vaccum lines. Remember where they all go. You may or may not be able to re-use the old TB/air manifold gasket. They're normally in pretty good shape. The throttle cable and spring are attached to the TB. You dont have to take them off, just get yourself a small pan to clean the TB in while its all connected.

When your out getting the carb cleaner- pick up a 4" diameter gasket to replace the one at the base of your air filter. Anything close - just take the filter off and make sure it fits at the filter/TB connection.

Now the IAC costs 50 buks if you choose to replace it. The carb cleaner 3 buks. I think the air filet gasket is 5 buks max. The TB gasket? dont know. You dont need to replace the IAC. Give it a good cleaning and drop sum lube back down the piston.

Reassemble the TB and hook back up your connections. Things should sound alot better. If the problem persists and effects engine idle/acceleration, repost a new thread.

I hope this information helps.

 

From what I understand, if the ABS light is on, the ABS will not work which is not a problem for me (my sons F150 and my Sebring have that same issue). Your brakes work just as any car without ABS would. Most common fix is the speed sensor on most cars/trucks. Because I grew up without ABS I prefer not to have them on cars, but in a heavy truck I can see the need. Get your codes checked at Advance or Autozone for free.

 

My lights do the exact same as what you are describing... I haven't done anything and she's still a runnin...