2001 Ram Offroad Sport Question
I'm new to the board and have a few quick questions. I bought a 2001 Ram Offroad Sport 4x4 a few weeks ago from a dealer and they didn't really know much about it. I've read on here that the Offroads come from the factory with a 2" lift. Well sitting next to my dad's non 4 wheel drive Chevy truck it seems like its quite a bit more than 2" taller. I looked underneath and I think mine may have a body lift but i'm not sure (no one mentioned that a body lift was also part of the offroad package but i'm not sure). On my dad's truck, the bed sits directly on the frame. On mine there is like a 2" thick rubber cushion between the bed and the frame so I'm thinking this is a body lift. Anyone else with an Offroad have this condition? There is a somewhat noticeable gap between the rear bumper and the tailgait. So my questions are is this a body lift, andif so is this a factory option for the offroad package? My tires are about bald andI'd like to get 35's on the stock 17" rims if they will not rub. I don't plan to do much offroading. I've seen a few people say that with the 2" leveling kit on an offroad they fit35's. I'm wondering if my possible body lift (if its not a factory option) would already allow for that without the leveling kit. I've added a picture of ithere. Any info it appreciated.
[IMG]local://upfiles/66471/16149569F0C74B71AF0F0B1F08A8BAF7.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/66471/16149569F0C74B71AF0F0B1F08A8BAF7.jpg[/IMG]
I have a 2001 Off-Road and it sits about 2" taller than my parents stock '99 1500 4x4.
The picture that you have looks like the your truck is stock with NO body lift. That is what mine look like before I got different tires yesterday. I installed 285/70-17 tires on mine and there is a slight rub at full turn.
The picture that you have looks like the your truck is stock with NO body lift. That is what mine look like before I got different tires yesterday. I installed 285/70-17 tires on mine and there is a slight rub at full turn.
I belive u will have rubbing in the front when u turn. It seems like a body lift, but also when u take a 4x4 next to a 2x4 its ALWAYS going to be taller. 4x4's are natural taller b/c of the front drive train etc. etc. Honstly go to any tire store and ask for there opaion. if they say yes then yas if it rubs will u replace...
If you rub the rear of the fender well when you turn, you need a little more lift (generally, 2"-3" BL will take care of that as will one more inch of suspension (i.e. 3" total suspension lift or more)). If you rub the control arms, you do not have enough backspacing on your wheels. Additional lift will not help you with that. I have the same wheels you do, and I test fit the set of 35's I am going to be installing soon, and they did not rub the control arms. With my 3" of lift, I did not rub the fender wells either, but it was close. If I was articulating, it might rub. That is why I am doing a 3" body lift.
this a 3 inch bodylift on my truck. See the spacer there....the body bushing underneath of it if stock...also. I heard if you put a 2" leveling kit on your truck it'll put your steering geometry into wackand give you bad handling caracteristics. The most anyone recommends on our dodges on stock control arms in 3 inches. If you put a 2" leveling kit, you'll actually go 4 inches on the stock a arms
[IMG]local://upfiles/55892/C6B79E283D9D4CF5BFF319718670CED5.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/55892/C6B79E283D9D4CF5BFF319718670CED5.jpg[/IMG]
Trending Topics
From the picture you posted that doesn't look like it has a body lift to me. They were also not a factory option if it has one the previous owner added it. It may have one and just not look like it but we would need to see more pictures to tell. Try and take some pictures of the body mounts and I'm sure someone could tell you if it does or not.
After looking at your attached picture, I don't believe I have a body lift. I guess the Dodge's just have a thicker body bushing which appeared like it could have been one to me. So basically it sounds like I need to get atleast 1" more lift to fit the 35's. Thanks for all of your replies, they are greatly appreciated.
There's probably a couple of details you should plan on considering when you install some extra lift.
If you add front coil spacers to an off road package in an attempt to run larger tires, you will change a couple of critical pieces of suspension geometry you may wnat to modify before you go up to 35s. It will be ESPECIALLY important if you go with a wheel with less than factory backspacing. Google "scrub radius" and read carefully. Actually, anyone who is going to change rim backspacing should understand what it does.
When you add lift to a four link suspension without changing A. the length of the control arms, and B. the length of your track bar, you will A. change your caster and scrub radius and B. move your axle inward on the right side. Thats because the axle is shifted to the left by the geometry of the track bar.
The suggestion that you run longer control arms on an off road when you lift it cures most of those potential issues. what many find when they don't use the arms and run 35s is that depending again on the rim, if they don't hit the arms, they hit sheet metal or the plastic in the back of the fender.
The track bar can be cured by a simple spacer from Tuff country or rough country. But since you've actually gone a bit higher than 3 inches, I'd recommend a Thuren Bar so you can adjust and accurately center your axle. It also eliminates the ball joint end on the factory bar, which fails VERY fast on an off road because the factory suspension is nearly maxed out with the lift fromhigh rate springs.
I hope that helps.
If you add front coil spacers to an off road package in an attempt to run larger tires, you will change a couple of critical pieces of suspension geometry you may wnat to modify before you go up to 35s. It will be ESPECIALLY important if you go with a wheel with less than factory backspacing. Google "scrub radius" and read carefully. Actually, anyone who is going to change rim backspacing should understand what it does.
When you add lift to a four link suspension without changing A. the length of the control arms, and B. the length of your track bar, you will A. change your caster and scrub radius and B. move your axle inward on the right side. Thats because the axle is shifted to the left by the geometry of the track bar.
The suggestion that you run longer control arms on an off road when you lift it cures most of those potential issues. what many find when they don't use the arms and run 35s is that depending again on the rim, if they don't hit the arms, they hit sheet metal or the plastic in the back of the fender.
The track bar can be cured by a simple spacer from Tuff country or rough country. But since you've actually gone a bit higher than 3 inches, I'd recommend a Thuren Bar so you can adjust and accurately center your axle. It also eliminates the ball joint end on the factory bar, which fails VERY fast on an off road because the factory suspension is nearly maxed out with the lift fromhigh rate springs.
I hope that helps.



