Hello - only had my 2001 1500 Quad Cab 5.2 L for a few weeks. I have noticed that when starting it first thing in the morning or after sitting for awhileI hear a SLIGHT noise until the oil pressure comes up. It goes away in a matter of a few seconds. My oil pressure runs at about 45-50 psi when cold and about 30-35 psi when warm. It varies in between depending on speed. Iam planning on pulling the oil pan soonand cleaning and will replace the oil pump and screen at the same time. I changed the oil and filter after buying it and I used a Fram filter(maybe not a good idea) and 10w40Castrol oil. Should I be worried about this noise? Any suggestions as to a better oil or filter to use ? What brand of oil pump would anyone suggest ? A lot of questions but I appreciate your help. THANKS Oh - forgot : engine has 119k miles on it.

 

I've gone away from Fram. Heard too many horror stories. I use Amsoil oil 5w-30 and filters. Night and day difference from using Fram and Dino oil. 10w-40 is a little thick, did you hear this sound before you changed the oil? The anti-drain-back valve in the filter may not be working right causing the oil to go back into the engine even though the filter is angles down. That combined with the thicker oil it can take longer to pressurize.

 

my opinion, flame me if you want i don't care.
a little bit of tick, clack, or knock at cold start up is normal. it takes a couple seconds to build oil pressure. a sticky lifter can take a little longer.
a gunk engine flush might help. it only costs $2-3. follow the directions.
my oil pressure was a tad low like yours. i put on a new oil pump and it didn't make any difference.
if noise continues, i'd put a bottle of stp in it. used it for 30 years in old chevy for 275k miles.
i've used fram, stp, puralotor, etc filters for years. no problems yet.
i think thicker oil like 10w40 or 20w50 is good for higher miles and leaks out less.
i use plain old havoline oil.
if you do replace oil pump, look into melling hi-vol, avail at autozone, not too expensive.
welcome to df.

 

I'm a fram guy, but might change when or ifI find convincing evidence of something better (haven't really read much yet). I believe in and follow good regular maintenance practices. I think any filter with good oil at regular intervals is fine but I choose to use synthetic. Mobil 1 has really come down in price (or the others have come up), you can regularly get it for under $25 per 5 qt jug.

I would hate to tell anyone not to change the oil pump, but it doesn't sound like a problem. I've always thought that ifit's time for a new pump,it's time for a completeoverhaul.Done quite a few so "overhaul" doesn't scare me away - might scare someone that has to pay to have it done. Go with the engine flush and keep clean oil in it!

 

Thanks for the replies. I was just a little concerned about doing only an engine flush. I have read some posts about loosening sludge up and causing worse problems by clogging the screen. I figured if I do a flush before removing the oil pan might be the way to go. I'm definately going to try a different filter brand (I have read that Wix and Purolator plus have better anti drain-back valves) and as far as the oil : I live in south Florida and have always used 10w40. I might go ahead and use 10w30 to try it. Thanks again.

 

If you wanna do some checking take off a valve cover, not the oil pan. You can find out a lot there too.
Noise on start up, though mine dosen't do this, but the brand new cars I have all around me, if they haven't been started in a while, they tap as well for a quick second too. I wouln't worry about that right dhvaughan?
I use 15-40 Rotella T, I use this in everything I own, use a better oil filter to see if it helps. I use Wally world's Super Tech.

 

Thanks again - I didn't mention that I recently replaced both cylinder heads (one was cracked) and there was some sludge build-up around the rockers and the lifters - not a great amount but still some). That's the main reason for the questions I guess. Does anyone know if I run flush in the engine for 15 minutes or so(without driving it) and then immediately draining the oil if that would possibly get some of the sludge out. Or would it just make it all collect in the oil pan and just cause more trouble.

 

Super tech is good, I personally use purolator pure one filters on everything, i read some studies and cut them open myself, world of difference. I was using KnN filters to begin with but purolator pure one is built WAY better and half the price at pep boys, or a buck more at sears lol.

 

I appreciate the info on the filters. Does anyone have any info or any other opinions about the engine flush ? Maybe I'm just trying to makea problem where there really is none.

 

the Gunk brand engine flush is a solvent looking/smelling stuff. its clear and thin and looks a lot like fuel injection cleaner. directions say to put in a quart, crank engine and let idle for 5 or 10 minutes. then drain and change oil and filter. i was going to use a quart of atf fluid as a flush, but the gunk was actually cheaper ($2-3) and i figured it was more engineered/designed/tested as a flush. i don't think it did any harm. i'm not sure it did any good. i had the oil pan and valve covers off awhile back and they weren't bad, but my oil pressure was a tad low and i wanted to see if this might help it any. it didn't change anything.