Start by reading the thread from the beginning .

 

ok, did that. put a wire between the 2 openings of the connector , the clicking stops, and now the lines were reading low refrigereant, so I tried to fill them. didnt show signs of filling, no matter how long I sprayed. so I stopped. pulled the wire, and re connected the connector to where it was. checked the refrigerant like the bottle said, and not its reading very high, too high, and in the red like its too full. clicking is back, air is still hot

side note....whatever the metal AC line that runs along the trucks front right side of the engine bay/hood area....leads to the radiator area with a black cap up near the front....that metal hose is FREEZING cold for most of the length, but as it approaches the front of the cable/tube...its hot.

normal?

need constructive help

 

I guess that leaves me out! Without the proper tools like a real gauge set(not a pos that comes with a can) it will be near impossible to diagnose properly.

 

so the clicking noise seems to be the compressor starting to spin, then stop, then start, then stop...about every 3 seconds. refrigerant level also changes at the same interval as the clicking. goes from low, to full, to low, to full....simultaneously with the clicking of the compressor on and off.

the jumper wire should be causing the compressor to turn on?



edit - the compressor DOES come on when I do the bypass on the accumlator connector. does that mean its still low? I just didnt want to keep filling it because the gauge shows overfull when I hook it up with the connector connected to the accumulator, but shows almost totally empty when I do the bypass and the compressor runs. the compressor does not run when the accumlator connector is in place.

should i fear overfilling with refrigerant? I am just over halfway through one can. should i be gauging its full level when I "trick" the compressor into running?

 

Don't worry about overfilling the system, that will be impossible with the evap core leaking. If you have tried the die and could see no leaks under the hood, then I can almost guaranty you have a core prob. Without the proper diagnostic tools, you are pissing in the wind.

 

so no harm in finishing off this can i bought?

 

If the compressor stays on when you jump the switch, then yes it's still low. Please wear safety glasses and gloves. Like I said, you need a set of gauges to really know whats going on.

 

1. The clicking sound is the clutch, which is attached to the front of the compressor.
2. If you are not sure what you are doing, I'd take this to a certified mechanic.

Venting refrigerant into the atmosphere is against the law.

 

Hi,

Sorry to hijack the post... but.. what about if jumping the jack on the accumulator does nothing (already checked every single fuse to verify nothing wrong there)

 

There are two switches in the system, a high pressure, and a low pressure. Both are capable of disabling the system if there is too much/not enough pressure. I don't know if these guys are normally closed, (in which case, jumpering them will tell the PCM that said condition is true.) or if they are normally open. (in which case, jumpering them will tell the PCM that said condition is false.)