Clean all connections (TPS, IAC, CKP, etc) and coat with d-electric grease.

 

ok I cleaned all the terminals and put on d-electric grease and I also changed out the batery terminals and had the battery and alternator checked...everything good there.

Any other ideas before i buy a TPS?

Brad

 

on your defroster problem try the check valves in the vacuum...i changed mine and it didnt work then i found another one in the other lines and changed it and now it is fine!...on the idle problem i really dont know but to me sounds like vacuum leakmaybe!!!!!

 

vac leaks,

I believe there's a vac line that runs under the battery, corrosive gases from the battery can cause it to dry up and crack.

There is the BrakeBooster vac line coming from the brake motor on the Driver's side, check it for cracks at the connections. 11/32" hose

The PCV vac line is on the passenger side of your truck (I think, it flipped to driver's at a later year, not sure which) it's a formedtube but you can use alength of 11/32"hose as well. Check the PCV valve too, the cheapo replacements don't seem to seat as well.

The Clean air vac line that comes into thestock air hatis also 11/32" hose I believe. It comes out of a valve cover knuckle that is made of plastic and can sometimes crack due to engine heat.

I had a cracked rubber hose that came from the evap purge selenoid line to the front of the TB as well,drove it to the auto shop and pulled the rubber tube off and had them match and cut it.

There what I call an accessory vac line that comes off the manifold that is much smaller than the rest that has about three other vac lines connected to it and runs up to a "T" connection with even more vac lines on it. You might have to check all the connections for cracks. This one is my loosest connection to the manifold, but still holds a vac with the engine off if I pull a line farther up.

Also Check the MAP Sensor on the front of the TB, there's a little rubber vac tubegrommet that attachesunder it to the TB.

 

I would put it on a scanner before just blindly buying parts. You could end up spending alot of money and still have a ill running truck. Check your map readings against manifold vacuum. When you reset your pcm, it starts out with a set of predetermined fuel and timing maps. As you drive, it writes maps based on sensor input. The sensors that it mainly uses to do that are the o2, map, and iat. I would check those three components. Cleaning your o2 sensor improperly will cause problems. All of this can easily be checked with a scanner and a vacuum gauge though.

I am not so sure that, if it were a vacuum leak, it would run fine for a period of time after having reset the pcm.

 

Mopowar

Can a scanner work with out a CEL? Do I have to go to the dealership to have it done?

Brad

 

Yes,a low cost scanner (not just a code reader) will give you most of your engine's vitals.I am not a big fan of dealer mechanics. They sometimes have an agenda other than what you want and what is best for the truck. I will never let another dealer mechanic near my truck. Anyway, what they charge herewould get real close to what I paid for my scanner.

 

Mopowar

I am not sure I understand what a "low cost scanner" is and where do I get it?

Brad

 

X2. I want to know what kind of scanner Mopwer recommends. He's on the right track, though. Don't just blindly replace parts and work this through. If you search my threads, you will see that I've been battling an overheating problem for almost a year, and I've been systematically attacking each part of the cooling system and I believe I've finally found it.

 

When I said low cost, I meant relatively speaking. Scanners range from ~$100 to ~$8000 (latest Snap-on with all keys, brake,airbag, and updatepackages). I use a Equus 3130 that retails for ~$169(Amazon). I bought it on ebay for ~$100 IIRC. It works on any obdII vehicle.