BIG...loooooooooooooooong...BURNOUT!

 

On a new set of gears? yikes.

 

I hope that EVERYONE knows that I am not being serious. Please do not try this! Or if you do, let us know how it all goes down...

 

Thanks , next thread will be help quick , my gears are making noise or the truck does not move.... HELP FAST , QUICK or what ever these post start...lol.

 

LOL, yes I did know you were kidding.

the thought of a solidly fused ball of steel residing where my rear differential used to be was slightly amusing for a second.

 

Any answers as to how to reprogram the speedo though?

 

Every 3000 miles? That honestly is a waste of money, the oil does not ever begin to break down at that low of millage. 10k miles is even on the low side for many people, especially if your running Syn.

A difference of 5w isn;t going to make a difference what so ever, I would just stick with 80w90

This made me laugh, it would make no difference other then wasting some of your time. Unless you switch from CW to CCW for tire wear hahaha

This more or less has to so with improper set up 90% of the time. I have seen my buddies do the whole break in procedure and still shred a R&P and I have seen them NOT do a break in and they're fine. The guy who shreds them is just dumb, hes gone through two Ford 9" R&Ps in in under 3000 miles. First set he did break in and they were toast after 1000 miles (hes dumb and set them up wrong) second time he did not do break in and they lasted about the same, 1000-1500 miles and they were toast from his wrong install again. It was kinda funny, I dunno if he didn;t use any compound or what, but the pattern on the drive side ran off the Ring, so when he pulled it out the edge was literally like a razor. Kinda cool to play with.

Fortunately they had lifetime warranties no questions asked.

Well anyways aims4squirals, if you do a similar break procedure to what have been posted with synthetic oils and are easy on the skinny pedal for 500ish miles you'll be okay, assuming you have a good install. Make sure they warranty it!

Personally I would just let it cool after 20-30 miles, then (if I was on a highway trip or something) let them cool at 100 miles. Then just go easy on her for a while and change the fluid at 500 and call it good from there!

Just my experiences and opinion.

 

That didn't seem like a huge deal either, just curious as to why there werethe two differing numbers. Thought maybe the service manual was written after the owners manual and that was an update I had missed. I don't tow or load up very often so the 75w140 isn't an issue.

As far as the driving in circles, that was recommended to me to mix up the friction modifier when I had the corporate trac-lock, but the Trutrac works without it. Most of the synthetics nowadays have it includedI believe.

 

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This is only for LSDs. If you add the Kendall or similar addative for limited slip, you're supposed to do some figure eights to get the clutch faces nice and soaked with the fresh additive. I turned a few figure eights nice and easy after I changed the fluid and added the Kendall additive, but I still get a few one tire fires now and then. Most of the time I lay down two tracks though...

 

The early Nissan Titans had a lot of trouble with the Dana Super44 differential they used...same as the one tried for a while in the rear of the Dodge Viper.

One of the automotive magazines had a Titan tear up its diff while they were doing a towing test, and in the course of the dealership repair the magazine talked about a differential break-in proceedure they had to do. Perhaps a search of Titan repair proceedures would turn up what Dana recommends.

I also distinctly remember that when the new Titan was announced several Ram owners with extensive off-road experience in trucks and jeeps predicted in advance that the Dana 44 would turn out to be a a problem in the Titan...and they turned out right!