It happened to methe first timeI replaced the cap and rotor. I didn't seat the rotor completely down when I put it on and it flew off the stem while I was on the highway and fell on its side and shorted out, melting straight thru. Truck lost all power and I coasted to a stop 50 yards from an auto parts store. Did a quick diagonse of the fueland sparkand found I wasn't getting spark and checked the distributor cap and found it.Inside of the cap was chewed from the rotor free spinning wildly under the cap.

The seating was kind of wierd for the rotor on thestem, it was likeit needed to be pushed down halfway, spun around 180* thenpushed inthe rest of the way. Don't know if that's normal, or maybe I was just imagining things but that's how I remembered it. Probably due for another one soon here.

Sorry I didn't read your post earlier, might havebeen able to help.

 

did you set the injector sync? I doubt the comp is bad, I'm sure all the wiring and whatnot is fine as I'd bet you were carefull tearing it apart. loosen the distributor and rotate it one way and see if it runs any better, if not, go the other direction. if you do find it running better, get it running to the point where you can do the initial break in on it and then take it down to a shop and have them set the fuel sync on it. I dont recall what the setting should be so you'll have to research it.

VWandDodge may know (gary), he went thru a similar situation on his motor rebuild.

 

had this similar problem with a guy that just replaced his heads.
running roughly
rotated distributor - he left it loose
set sync with DRB
some Snap-On scanners also can read it
sync should be set to + or - 0-5degrees
0 is best

 

The compression was definitly bad on 2 cyls, as the valve seats were burnt. This may have been caused by the Cat that went bad on me. I had it replaced with a new one and along with a new Oxy Sensor. This was done roughly 1200 miles before things got real bad. By the way the tune up was done at a Chrysler Dealer, scoped and new Cap/Rotor/Plugs/Wires. So I basically drove the Truck that distance before it went real bad. This was all done on a Sat. morning and they close at 1.00 in the afternoon. Then when I got home the EGR was gone as well. With 183000 miles on the original engine, the Mechanic didn't advise puting rebuilt heads on the old bottom end. So I authorized a complete rebuild, then the engine was fired and ran like a piece of Sh??t, and it was found the the Rotor was the culprit. As I mentioned in an earlier post I am not impressed with the Sensors on these engines, and know absolutly nothing about them. I just love this old Ram and I had said a couple of years before even if I have to repower it I will, and did.
Now were off on a trip of around 4000 miles, wish me luck, that should break her in. Thanks again to all for all the advice,very very much appreciated, I really mean that.

 

To all who replied to my post, I did leave for my trip and as of a few hours ago have logged a little over 2000 miles, on this rebuild. Changed the oil at 500 miles and am going to change it again for my return home trip.
I should have around 3800-4000 miles total, and the Goat is running strong.
Seems the more I give it the better it performs, a good breakin.
Thanks again guys for the input, will let you all know how I made out come next week when I get back.
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thanks for the update... doesnt leave us hanging

 

Arrived back home today with 3962 miles overall, on my trip. Only problems I encountered, was foaming tranny oil, and seems when I get down to 1/4 tank of fuel it starts to bog down, and looses power. Going to have the tranny oil changed tomorrow or at least this week, could be the bands need adjustment. The tranny was rebuilt around 12000 miles ago and never had the time to change the oil. As for the fuel problem at 1/4 tank, don't understand that one, any advice on what to look for?