I wish I had seen this thread sooner. You were told to dump a TON of money in parts you may not have needed, and no one told you something obvious, with that being to pull the fuel rail and check the inlet side of the injectors. When I dismantled my 5.2L, three of the injectors were PACKED with crud,. and the fuel rail had a bunch of gunk in it. I would recommend that route as well as perhaps moving a misfiring injector from one bank to another to see if the problem travels to the new cylinder.
Captain
With a '95 you should be pre OBDII unless it was a late '95, then you may. Only way to know for sure is look under the dash to the right of the accelerator and see if there is a plug for a diagnostic tool. Lacking that, you are still OBD I and timing is changable. Just don't ask me the numbers. Hopefully someone else can chime in here with that OR check with an auto parts store or dealer service dept.
Also, being OBDI you wouldn't have the sensors as they are ignition related to OBD II systems. If it IS you timing, good luck reaching the lousy distributor...Bastards buried it under the firewall behind the dark reaches of doom. Just be glad you don't have to try to set points in it.
WC
Also, being OBDI you wouldn't have the sensors as they are ignition related to OBD II systems. If it IS you timing, good luck reaching the lousy distributor...Bastards buried it under the firewall behind the dark reaches of doom. Just be glad you don't have to try to set points in it.
WC
Champion
Check the routing of the ignition wires here:
http://dodgeram.info/tsb/1998/18-48-98/18-48-98-v6.htm
carefully study the pictures
Be familiar with all the potential problems of a 1995 Ram V6 here:
http://dodgeram.info/tsb/1995-index.htm
Pulling the injector fuel rail and checking the small screens in the tops of the injectors is a worthwhile step.
A malfunctioning transmission overdrive or TCC solenoid can cause problems similar to what you describe too, as well as a malfunctioning EGR system flowing exhaust gas when it should not.
http://dodgeram.info/tsb/1998/18-48-98/18-48-98-v6.htm
carefully study the pictures
Be familiar with all the potential problems of a 1995 Ram V6 here:
http://dodgeram.info/tsb/1995-index.htm
Pulling the injector fuel rail and checking the small screens in the tops of the injectors is a worthwhile step.
A malfunctioning transmission overdrive or TCC solenoid can cause problems similar to what you describe too, as well as a malfunctioning EGR system flowing exhaust gas when it should not.
Thread Starter
Actually. I pulled off the injectors on the passengers side. But, can I soak the injectors in something to clean them... or what should I do. Also, what about the rail... can I soak that too? Local Junk Yard wants $65 for the rail and injectors.
ALSO... one injector has a slight gash out of the top ring... Hmmm...
AND... YES... someone, somewhere is laughing their a$$ off at the invention of the placement of the cap and rotor!$%&!
ALSO... one injector has a slight gash out of the top ring... Hmmm...
AND... YES... someone, somewhere is laughing their a$$ off at the invention of the placement of the cap and rotor!$%&!
Thread Starter
Ok... I just read the TSB that HankL gave the link to... briefly (in english) explain why the plug wires would do that? I never realized that routing was than important. I knew that the order was, but that was about it.
AND again, thanks to all for your patience!
AND again, thanks to all for your patience!
Quote:
ORIGINAL: Stonehouse
Ok... I just read the TSB that HankL gave the link to... briefly (in english) explain why the plug wires would do that? I never realized that routing was than important. I knew that the order was, but that was about it.
AND again, thanks to all for your patience!
if the wires are touching there is a chance that when one is firing, it can jump to the other wire and send spark to the wrong cylinder when it is not in the ready-to-fire positionORIGINAL: Stonehouse
Ok... I just read the TSB that HankL gave the link to... briefly (in english) explain why the plug wires would do that? I never realized that routing was than important. I knew that the order was, but that was about it.
AND again, thanks to all for your patience!
Quote:
ORIGINAL: Stonehouse
Actually. I pulled off the injectors on the passengers side. But, can I soak the injectors in something to clean them... or what should I do. Also, what about the rail... can I soak that too? Local Junk Yard wants $65 for the rail and injectors.
ALSO... one injector has a slight gash out of the top ring... Hmmm...
AND... YES... someone, somewhere is laughing their a$$ off at the invention of the placement of the cap and rotor!$%&!
This is no lie. If you can find a sonic cleaner that is used for cleaning jewelery and has a basket large enough to hold an injector, buy it. The $100 cost will outweigh the cost of TWO injectors. You can take your time cleaning each injector on a sonic cycle with plain old mineral spirits. The injector has to be completely submerged for the cycle. Look at my engine thread in my sigline and you'll see how bad my injectors are. A friend's dad, who is a mechanic for a racing team, told me about the sonic cleaner and explained that that's how the pro's do it. He's never had to replace an injector. I had to send them to a jeweler friend of mine who has a tank large enough to do all 8 and because he wanted a challenge. My injectors came back looking like new, and they were packed with crud.ORIGINAL: Stonehouse
Actually. I pulled off the injectors on the passengers side. But, can I soak the injectors in something to clean them... or what should I do. Also, what about the rail... can I soak that too? Local Junk Yard wants $65 for the rail and injectors.
ALSO... one injector has a slight gash out of the top ring... Hmmm...
AND... YES... someone, somewhere is laughing their a$$ off at the invention of the placement of the cap and rotor!$%&!
Find someone with a solvent tank and use pressure to clean your fuel rail. DO NOT TRY TO DISMANTLE IT. Pressure wash it, the whole 9 yards. While you're at it, I would advocate dropping and cleaning the fuel tank. I had some build-up of sludge in my tank.
Captain
Sounds like you've got a bugger. Two things. First, no MIL does not necessarily mean no codes. Scan that critter. If there are still no codes, try inducing one to make sure the PCM is gathering them correctly.
Second, the 3.9l is well known for sloppy timing chains. They can get bad enough to jump and throw your cam timing. One or two teeth off may not show up on a compression test, but bet your a$$ it'll affect driveability.
Also, someone else had mentioned the ignition cable routing/crossfire issue. It's outlined in a TSB that is very specific about correcting that condition before attempting any other repairs.
Second, the 3.9l is well known for sloppy timing chains. They can get bad enough to jump and throw your cam timing. One or two teeth off may not show up on a compression test, but bet your a$$ it'll affect driveability.
Also, someone else had mentioned the ignition cable routing/crossfire issue. It's outlined in a TSB that is very specific about correcting that condition before attempting any other repairs.
Thread Starter
actually my Dad has one of those cleaners, but he lives 3.5 hours away.
I am planning on getting that rail and injectors from the junk yard as I noticed the rail on the pass side seems to have a "slight" bend in it and the front injector has a gough out of the top seal.
AS for the wires... I have studied and made copies of the wiring diagram. Will do this weekend... supposed to snow tonight and tomorrow, but back into the 40's by Saturday.
Thanks!
I am planning on getting that rail and injectors from the junk yard as I noticed the rail on the pass side seems to have a "slight" bend in it and the front injector has a gough out of the top seal.
AS for the wires... I have studied and made copies of the wiring diagram. Will do this weekend... supposed to snow tonight and tomorrow, but back into the 40's by Saturday.
Thanks!
Thread Starter
hey... I just read on another post that Walmart ( I HATE that place) has ultrasonic cleaners for 35 bucks! Will check that out next week. I also know that the timing chain was replaced at around 40k when it left the original owner stranded on the side of the road.



