I'll second that.

Napa Retail: (varies slightly by locale and corporate vs. franchise store)

Inner tie rod-----$62.49/each
Outertie rod------$57.99/each
Idler arm assy.---------$81.49
Pittman arm------------$84.49
Ball joint--------$67.49/each (upper and lower are different part, just same price)

So that's $676.90+tax in parts alone, if he needed everything (and assuming his truck is a 1/2 ton). Obviously, control arm bushings, sway bar links, shocks, etc. would be more. This is all the premium line lifetime warranty stuff. The China made crap is about 40% cheaper.

Labor is:

Ball joints, 1.7 hours/side (3.4 total)
Tie rods, 1.0 hours/side (2.0 total)
Idler arm, 0.5 hours
Pittman arm, 0.5 hours

$93/hr at my shop, so $595.20, plus $59 for a thrust angle alignment.

And shop list price on parts is a bit higher than retail (about 25-30% typically)

Add shop supplies and tax, rightabout$1,650 for everything OTD where I'm at.

 

I'm goin to put the ball joints in and then ride it for a month or so, then replace the tie rods and monroe shocks. hopefully my joints will hold out for 6 mos- 1 year and then i go with moog.

 

loosened up the crown nuts but found out i dont have the right allen to fit the caliper. what's something i can do to speed up the process when i have the right tools? not sure what i can do beside more penetration liquid. also frustrated right now too lol.

 

soooo I feel really dumb. I was so focused on those writeups, I just now realized I don't have an axle shaft because mine is 2wd. LOL. good times. I'll see what I can do in the afternoon tomorrow, I don't have the right hex size in my tool box, so I gotta go get me some.

 

Recieved the parts today and instead of including 4 ball joints, they shipped 2 upper ball joints and two tie rods. sent an email and they said the lower joints will be shipped tomorrow.

 

I've taken all the crowns off, but can't seem to budge the knuckle off the joints or tie rod end. is it safe to just wack the heck out of it?

 

Put the castle nut back on, but loosely. Using a large ball peen hammer, rap the knuckle as hard as you can. The tie-rods will loosen and it may take a few blows to do it. The ball-joints will have to be pressed out.

 

yeah i've read to keep them on. what is the purpose of keeping them on? more surface area to hit?

 

more surface area, and you dont mushroom the end from beating on it, and if you did ever half to reuse something the threads wouldent be totaly wrecked

 

Not to mention it keeps things from flying apart when the stud and knuckle finally separate.

I'm actually kind of worried your going to injure yourself doing this repair...

edit: just realised you just changing tie rods at this time. I had visions of you beating on the ball joints with nothing restraining the coil spring.