Rear blocks
#1
#2
RE: Rear blocks
Yes, you can remove the rear block. Obviously this will make the rear end sit lower than the front unless you drop the front end as well. If you want to retain the height on the rear end, then you would need to get either new springs to make up for the missing blocks or do a shackle flip. The shackle flip does exactly what it sounds like and accounts for about 4" of lift from stock if I recall correctly. It involves removing the hanger and bolting it back in place upside down and also fliping the shackle over so it is in compression instead of tension like it is in stock form.
After reviewing your sig line, I would recommend that you just remove the body lift instead of messing with the suspension.
After reviewing your sig line, I would recommend that you just remove the body lift instead of messing with the suspension.
#3
RE: Rear blocks
The rear spring perch on the 1500 axle is slightly curved to match the contour of the botom of the factory block. If you remove the factory block, the spring will not mate to the curved perch surface very well and you may wind up with axle wrap. Also the rear block is part of your rear bump stop, so if you remove it, something else needs to be done about the bump stops.
You may be able to remove the front 2" coil spacer and the extra leaf in the rear leaf springs that the "Off Road" editions have that the standard Rams don't (thats how the off road editions sit higher than stnadard rams because they have an extra leaf in their rear leaf packs). Doing this should reduce your overall lift height by 2" and may be enough for you.
You could also do as mentioned above and remove the body lift.
Good luck to you.
You may be able to remove the front 2" coil spacer and the extra leaf in the rear leaf springs that the "Off Road" editions have that the standard Rams don't (thats how the off road editions sit higher than stnadard rams because they have an extra leaf in their rear leaf packs). Doing this should reduce your overall lift height by 2" and may be enough for you.
You could also do as mentioned above and remove the body lift.
Good luck to you.
#4
RE: Rear blocks
Well I was thinking of removing the front coil spacer, putting in regular 4x4 front coils and removing the rear blocks to lower it. Also, this would involve putting the newer 20" 1500 wheels and tires on to make it look ok. What are your guys recommendations? I'm tired of being high and I'm low on money and I can't afford buying new 35" tires at the time. I was thinking that maybe if I drop it to the height of a regular 4x4 and put smaller tires on it, I might save some gas mileage and be able to sell alot of the stuff I put on it. Any opinions? By the way, I definitely need the 4x4 still and it's already got the smaller of the V8's so selling it and getting a 2WD is out of the question.
#5
RE: Rear blocks
Uh, we already gave you a recommendation.
Remove the 3" body lift and leave the suspension alone. That alone will cover everything you want to do and be the cheapest way to go. It would also be the most functional as it will lower the center of gravity and improve the on-road handling.
Remove the 3" body lift and leave the suspension alone. That alone will cover everything you want to do and be the cheapest way to go. It would also be the most functional as it will lower the center of gravity and improve the on-road handling.
#7
RE: Rear blocks
ORIGINAL: xtremewlr
Uh, we already gave you a recommendation.
Remove the 3" body lift and leave the suspension alone. That alone will cover everything you want to do and be the cheapest way to go. It would also be the most functional as it will lower the center of gravity and improve the on-road handling.
Uh, we already gave you a recommendation.
Remove the 3" body lift and leave the suspension alone. That alone will cover everything you want to do and be the cheapest way to go. It would also be the most functional as it will lower the center of gravity and improve the on-road handling.
If your truely looking for 4wd and gas milage,I would seriously consider sellingyour Dodge and buying a Toyota 4wd truck. You will get better milage with the Toyota then you could ever get with the Dodge in any configuration. The Toy would fit in your garage and be extremely dependable as well.
Your going to spend all this effort and money to get your truck lowered and have 20" rims on it and all that may equate to a mile or two better MPG.
Not really worth the time, effort and money for a guy who wants to simply retain 4wd and get good milage IMHO.
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#10
RE: Rear blocks
Do 2wd's have blocks between the axleand leaf springs? I looked at a pair of original blocks and there is no curvature, but there is a nipple coming out of the block that I guess fits in the axle housing. Also, I'm confused on how the factory block is centered on the axles? Is the top bracket for the U-bolts welded to the leaf spring?