Quote:
ORIGINAL: pcfixerpro
Wish ya luck,
pcfixerpro
The only reason for the hypertech is because I have the deathflash. I would do the CPS mod but, I tried once and couldn't reach the damn CPS.ORIGINAL: pcfixerpro
Quote:
ORIGINAL: aim4squirrels
I'lljust suggest by editing the list:
1. New timing Chain = 80$ You can get it cheaper, keep looking, try hughesengines.com
2. Kegger mod = free Free = yes, always
3. TB port = Free
4. Hypertech = 250-300 Save it, get a B&G flash or a SCT tuner
5. Plenum = 80 don't go cheaper here, get the plate all the gaskets and the newbolts
6. 3” suspension lift = 500$ Go withgearsinstead, you're planning all these performance mods, put that powerto the wheels, baby!, just cut about 1200 of theother stuff
7. 1.7 rr = 300-400$? get the 1.6's with a cam
8. Cam (Maybe) = 800$ Cam w/ 1.7RR? that's a waste
9. Rocker panels = 200$
10. Fenders = 400$
11. Heads = 700-1000$ You can get a bareset of heads from hughesengines.com for 250 a piece, but it wouldn't hurt to spend this much and build them up with better springs, pushrods, valves, etc.
12. Dual Exhaust = 300$
13. Headers = 400$
14. MSD 6a = 200$
15. Locker = 400$ (I really want this but, I want performance more) That'll help put the power to the wheels
16. Dual Shocks = 100$-150
17. Ram air hood = 700-800$ Maybe,butthen you might want to go with a box that'll push the air into the tb, the cover on the round moparA/C will justdeflect the intial forced inair.
18. Mopar valve covers = 100$ just for looks? you can worry about the looks of the engine bay later.
19. Mopar air cleaner = 80$
20. 3" body lift = 300$ I'd personally scratch this and the sus lift and go with a regearing of the rear diff.
These are just my personal suggestions take tem or leave them.
I think aim4squirrels did a good job... I agree with his choice to not use the hypertech. I personally did not find a big improvement when I used it on my truck, and when we tried it on my buddies...his truck ping'd like friggin crazy! take a bunch of marbles in a big tin can and constantlyspin that around. It sounded bad! not to mention the brake light and abs light because aparently the flash screwed up. Tried to unflash and still had the lights on his dash. It never copied the pinion gears settings back over so his speedo was off like 20 mph. I ended up paying for part of his reflash at the dealership. I alsomy truck reflashedas a precaution... (big chunk of change I wasn't expecting). I ditched that thing! There was just a discussion on roller rockers the other day 1.6 vs 1.7 and they said to stick with 1.6's. Good luck with the locker and let me know how it turns out. I would like to put a locker in, but she see's the street way too often. I plan on installing a truetrac over the summer as well as the level kit, then the mud terrains. That ought to finish up mytruck (haha... right) I would like to know where you can get the mopar valve covers for 100 bux. I'm thinking they should be more around the 200 range for the magnum block and 100 for the olderLA block.ORIGINAL: aim4squirrels
I'lljust suggest by editing the list:
1. New timing Chain = 80$ You can get it cheaper, keep looking, try hughesengines.com
2. Kegger mod = free Free = yes, always
3. TB port = Free
4. Hypertech = 250-300 Save it, get a B&G flash or a SCT tuner
5. Plenum = 80 don't go cheaper here, get the plate all the gaskets and the newbolts
6. 3” suspension lift = 500$ Go withgearsinstead, you're planning all these performance mods, put that powerto the wheels, baby!, just cut about 1200 of theother stuff
7. 1.7 rr = 300-400$? get the 1.6's with a cam
8. Cam (Maybe) = 800$ Cam w/ 1.7RR? that's a waste
9. Rocker panels = 200$
10. Fenders = 400$
11. Heads = 700-1000$ You can get a bareset of heads from hughesengines.com for 250 a piece, but it wouldn't hurt to spend this much and build them up with better springs, pushrods, valves, etc.
12. Dual Exhaust = 300$
13. Headers = 400$
14. MSD 6a = 200$
15. Locker = 400$ (I really want this but, I want performance more) That'll help put the power to the wheels
16. Dual Shocks = 100$-150
17. Ram air hood = 700-800$ Maybe,butthen you might want to go with a box that'll push the air into the tb, the cover on the round moparA/C will justdeflect the intial forced inair.
18. Mopar valve covers = 100$ just for looks? you can worry about the looks of the engine bay later.
19. Mopar air cleaner = 80$
20. 3" body lift = 300$ I'd personally scratch this and the sus lift and go with a regearing of the rear diff.
These are just my personal suggestions take tem or leave them.
Wish ya luck,
pcfixerpro
steve05ram360
Hall Of Fame
close
May 4, 2026
- Join DateJan 2004
- Posts:12,946
-
Likes:177
-
Liked:309 Times in 288 Posts
Quote:
ORIGINAL: BadStratRT
i hear alot of "the heads are crap" about the heads that i run on the mirada too...and im making around 500hp on 87 octane. if hes allocating a grand on heads, he can get a good set of heads, but im a believer that any head can be worked to produce good numbers.
and we were running 26" hoosiers with 392s...i wish that she had gotten 4.11s, but that was before i was making decisions...
it's not that they cant be worked to perform good... it's the cracking between the valve seats. I still have my set in the garage (holding the top heavy shelf down <jk>ORIGINAL: BadStratRT
i hear alot of "the heads are crap" about the heads that i run on the mirada too...and im making around 500hp on 87 octane. if hes allocating a grand on heads, he can get a good set of heads, but im a believer that any head can be worked to produce good numbers.
and we were running 26" hoosiers with 392s...i wish that she had gotten 4.11s, but that was before i was making decisions...
I should snap some pics of the carbon trails between the valve seats to show. The heavy duty heads can be made to out perform the R/T's and I "think" are cheeper to get them done. Had the HD's been out there when I bought my r/t's I'd gone in that direction instead.
Quote:
ORIGINAL: steve05ram360
I should snap some pics of the carbon trails between the valve seats to show. The heavy duty heads can be made to out perform the R/T's and I "think" are cheeper to get them done. Had the HD's been out there when I bought my r/t's I'd gone in that direction instead.
Hughes makes a set of iron heads that are supposed to out flow the r/ts. Does anyone have any experience with those?ORIGINAL: steve05ram360
Quote:
ORIGINAL: BadStratRT
i hear alot of "the heads are crap" about the heads that i run on the mirada too...and im making around 500hp on 87 octane. if hes allocating a grand on heads, he can get a good set of heads, but im a believer that any head can be worked to produce good numbers.
and we were running 26" hoosiers with 392s...i wish that she had gotten 4.11s, but that was before i was making decisions...
it's not that they cant be worked to perform good... it's the cracking between the valve seats. I still have my set in the garage (holding the top heavy shelf down <jk>ORIGINAL: BadStratRT
i hear alot of "the heads are crap" about the heads that i run on the mirada too...and im making around 500hp on 87 octane. if hes allocating a grand on heads, he can get a good set of heads, but im a believer that any head can be worked to produce good numbers.
and we were running 26" hoosiers with 392s...i wish that she had gotten 4.11s, but that was before i was making decisions...
I should snap some pics of the carbon trails between the valve seats to show. The heavy duty heads can be made to out perform the R/T's and I "think" are cheeper to get them done. Had the HD's been out there when I bought my r/t's I'd gone in that direction instead.
steve05ram360
Hall Of Fame
close
May 4, 2026
- Join DateJan 2004
- Posts:12,946
-
Likes:177
-
Liked:309 Times in 288 Posts
those are the heads I'm talking about. they are a great replacement for stock heads. if you go to the 2.02 valves and have port work done on them, they will really shine on the top end.
Quote:
ORIGINAL: steve05ram360
those are the heads I'm talking about. they are a great replacement for stock heads. if you go to the 2.02 valves and have port work done on them, they will really shine on the top end.
That might be a good idea along with a cam. Id feel kinda bad that I've got all of that **** off of the engine and I'm not rebuilding the bottom end. Oh well the sooner the engine craps out the sooner I can stroke it.ORIGINAL: steve05ram360
those are the heads I'm talking about. they are a great replacement for stock heads. if you go to the 2.02 valves and have port work done on them, they will really shine on the top end.
Ok, here’s what I have so far.
New cam
Complete exhaust system
Some kind of head work
Timing Chain
No Lift for now (The wife is very against it but, I don’t think she knows how much other work I want to do.)
Here’s my dilemma. First I’m not sure what kind of cam to get there is a ton of planning that goes into it and I’m still doing research on it. Does anyone have any insight in to it that could help me along or should I bag the cam and put 1.7 rr on? Second, I’m leaning towards buying all the parts to redo my stock heads and then taking them to a machine shop and have the work done on them. I think it would be cheaper this way but, there is a ton of down time involved. I was thinking about replacing all of the valve train myself and having the machine shop just port it but, my brother in law is a mechanic and says there is a huge amount of work involved in headwork and that it was best to let the shop do it all. What do you all think and how much do think it will cost me to go this route. If the saving isn’t there by having a machine shop do the work I’ll just order the heads complete from hughes. How much of this stuff is going to be a waste if I stroke the engine in two years?
New cam
Complete exhaust system
Some kind of head work
Timing Chain
No Lift for now (The wife is very against it but, I don’t think she knows how much other work I want to do.)
Here’s my dilemma. First I’m not sure what kind of cam to get there is a ton of planning that goes into it and I’m still doing research on it. Does anyone have any insight in to it that could help me along or should I bag the cam and put 1.7 rr on? Second, I’m leaning towards buying all the parts to redo my stock heads and then taking them to a machine shop and have the work done on them. I think it would be cheaper this way but, there is a ton of down time involved. I was thinking about replacing all of the valve train myself and having the machine shop just port it but, my brother in law is a mechanic and says there is a huge amount of work involved in headwork and that it was best to let the shop do it all. What do you all think and how much do think it will cost me to go this route. If the saving isn’t there by having a machine shop do the work I’ll just order the heads complete from hughes. How much of this stuff is going to be a waste if I stroke the engine in two years?
Here is what I've come up with so far.
#4666 Heads from Hughes (1.92 int 1.6 Ext)
1110 Spring kit installed
Hughes Plenum Kit
HER1828AL Camshaft
CCA-2103 Timing Chain
SUM-G9045Exhaust Headers
total comes to 1500$
Leaves some money for exterior mods and some other bolt on stuff. One thing that makes me a little nervous is the cam is for a 2800-6000 RPM. I wonder how much towing power I'll loose?
#4666 Heads from Hughes (1.92 int 1.6 Ext)
1110 Spring kit installed
Hughes Plenum Kit
HER1828AL Camshaft
CCA-2103 Timing Chain
SUM-G9045Exhaust Headers
total comes to 1500$
Leaves some money for exterior mods and some other bolt on stuff. One thing that makes me a little nervous is the cam is for a 2800-6000 RPM. I wonder how much towing power I'll loose?
hmmm Just got an e-mail from Hughes. I asked them what kind of estimate they could give me on hp increase. They said maybe 40-50. Thats 30$ a horse. I don't think it's worth the risk. I might just do bolt on instead. 1.7 rr are a lot cheaper then doing all of that ****. It would have been fun to do.
Banned
HEYYYY whyd ya change the thread name???! I was havin' fun with that lmao
I was havin' fun with that lmao