Please silver take pics..i ment post em.. I forgot about these little but very good info mods , well these are on my list to do..Never ending..LOL

 

If you're using a narrow band o2 sensor on your a/f meter, then when the engine is in closed loop mode (idle or cruise for example), the lights should jump up and down at a fairly consistant rate. This is called dither. When your engine is in any closed loop mode, it is (or should be ideally) operating very near the stochiometric point, the point were the air/fuel ratio is 14.7:1 and your mixture is ideal for the the most efficient combustion. A ratio higher then that means you are too lean, a ratio below that means your are too fuel rich. During closed loop modes, the PCM is constantly adjusting the air/fuel ratio in an attempt to maintain the stochiometric point, hence why it dithers. So if it dithers above and below 14.7:1 equally, and at constant rate (about 1 cycle per second), then your PCM is dialing in the air fuel ratios very well. That is what you want to see.

Then, when you get on the gas or otherwise go into any other open loop mode, the a/f will stop dithering and lock into a more exact a/f mixture. Usually you want this to be rich because as you add more throttle, the PCM is giving more fuel to make more power. If you get on the gas, and it shows only lean, you have a lean issue. You also shouldn't see rich conditions that are more then about 12:1 air to fuel. If you do (even under full throttle hard accelerations), you are probably too rich for a naturally aspirated engine using pump gas. With that said, keep in mind that a narrow band o2 sensor is not going to give you a real accurate reading. The best it is going to do is tell you if 1) during closed loop operation if your fuel trims are good, and 2) during open loop mods if you are in a rich condition or lean condition. If you want to know your exact a/f ratio at all times, or want to operate outside a range of about 12:1 - 17:1 (like if your using race fuel on a blown engine), you need to upgrade to a wide band o2 sensor and a a/f meter that can interpret its signals.

For me, all I wanted to know is if my fuel trims were good, and if I was rich or lean. I drive at some very high altitudes sometimes, which can reak havoc on a speed density design engine because it isn't able to accuratly tell that the air pressure and air volume is much less and that your getting less air/oxygen. So that is why I wanted the a/f meter. To go with it, I also have a air/fuel calibrator that allows me to manually force a rich or lean condition by modifying the MAP sensor signal to fool the PCM. This is nice when you are running rich at high altitude, you can simply lean out the fuel with a turn of a ****, which restores power and keeps you from fowling plugs and sensors with excess fuel/carbon buildup.

If someone has a place to host some video that can then be posted on this site, i'll take some video of my a/f meter in some closed loop and open loop operations, email it to you, and you can post them up for me. Then you can see how mine operated under various conditions.

Hope this helps.

 

For more info for you, here is my original post back from long ago when I installed my a/f meter. Good info there.

https://dodgeforum.com/m_610407/tm.htm

 

Don't know if this helps But: from '96 factory manual
"up-stream O2 sensor"
16 gage-dark green with orange tracer---auto shut down relay
18 gage- blackwith white tracer---chassis ground
18 gage- tan with white tracer---PCM signal -I think this is the wire you want to tap in too
18gage- black with light blue tracer---PCM sensor ground

"down-stream O2 sensor"
16 gage- dark green with orange tracer---auto shut down relay
18 gage- blackwith white tracer---chassis ground
18 gage- black with light blue tracer---PCM sensor ground
18gage- orange with blacktracer---PCM sensor

I believe these are the wire colours on the harness after the connector, not the colours on the sensor.

[edit wrong wire indicatednow fixed]

 

Hey silver , must of been busy and all , but still waiting on these pics...

 

tap into the front oxygen sensor black wire and it will save you alot of trouble

 

just black ? or what rabbler said (black with white tracer ?)

 

mine had no tracers that or they were so worn down i couldnt see them. You should have 1 grey 2 white and a black so its pretty simple.

 

I think Chet tapped directly into the sensor pigtail and not the vehicle harness.
It should work the same but if you ever have to replace the sensor you'll have to cut and re-solder the guage wire.

P.S. I indicated the wrong wire in my post I corrected it now.

 

We'll here is the best I can give you because I don't really want to have to take apart the wire loom again to get you a better pic. From my a/f meter in the cab mounted to the dash, the wires go back down behind the dash. Two wires connect to switched ignition sources (one for power, and one to dim the lights), one goes to a ground, and then the remaining two wires go out a grommet on the firewall near the steering column. They run parallel to the main wire loom. In the picture below, you can see a brown and orange (that's what color they really are, just didn't turn out that way in the picture) wire running parallel to the primary wire loom going to the PCM, that's the two wires. After they enter inside the main wire loom bundle, I solder spliced the wires as I described earlier. Soldering is the best way to splice because it introduces the least amount of resistance. Then I heat shrink wrapped each solder, taped it all together, then rewraped the wire loom as you see it here. The two wires I spliced into both go to the right had plug of the PCM. The reason I did it where I did is thats how it was recommended by the manufacturer of my a/f meter. They said the closer to the PCM you can make the connection, the better.


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