Performance Distributor's Firepower Ignition Kit
MSD is not cheap. 6a box 180.00 , wires 79.00 , coil 45-55.00 .. now with that being said you can go on ebay and get a used 6a box for 90.00 , wires 39.00 , coil 28.00-45.00
this is what i use
msd 6a
msd street fire plug wires 8 mm
msd coil blaster 8228 ( factory replacement )
msd ss blaster coil 8207 (testing)
plug gap at .055
depend on the year of your truck 96-97 8228 coil is a plug and play
98- or new trucks need the accel wire harness for the 8228 coil to work. depend on what coil you use you have to use a ballest if you just using a coil other then the 8228..
does this make a diference sure , better idle better fuel buring and maybe a tad of power , tad better MPG . but the MSD is better used with other mods.. just the coil and wires will free up the rpms. the 6a box can be used anytime..
this is what i use
msd 6a
msd street fire plug wires 8 mm
msd coil blaster 8228 ( factory replacement )
msd ss blaster coil 8207 (testing)
plug gap at .055
depend on the year of your truck 96-97 8228 coil is a plug and play
98- or new trucks need the accel wire harness for the 8228 coil to work. depend on what coil you use you have to use a ballest if you just using a coil other then the 8228..
does this make a diference sure , better idle better fuel buring and maybe a tad of power , tad better MPG . but the MSD is better used with other mods.. just the coil and wires will free up the rpms. the 6a box can be used anytime..
ORIGINAL: padodgeram
MSD is not cheap. 6a box 180.00 , wires 79.00 , coil 45-55.00 .. now with that being said you can go on ebay and get a used 6a box for 90.00 , wires 39.00 , coil 28.00-45.00
this is what i use
msd 6a
msd street fire plug wires 8 mm
msd coil blaster 8228 ( factory replacement )
msd ss blaster coil 8207 (testing)
plug gap at .055
depend on the year of your truck 96-97 8228 coil is a plug and play
98- or new trucks need the accel wire harness for the 8228 coil to work. depend on what coil you use you have to use a ballest if you just using a coil other then the 8228..
does this make a diference sure , better idle better fuel buring and maybe a tad of power , tad better MPG . but the MSD is better used with other mods.. just the coil and wires will free up the rpms. the 6a box can be used anytime..
MSD is not cheap. 6a box 180.00 , wires 79.00 , coil 45-55.00 .. now with that being said you can go on ebay and get a used 6a box for 90.00 , wires 39.00 , coil 28.00-45.00
this is what i use
msd 6a
msd street fire plug wires 8 mm
msd coil blaster 8228 ( factory replacement )
msd ss blaster coil 8207 (testing)
plug gap at .055
depend on the year of your truck 96-97 8228 coil is a plug and play
98- or new trucks need the accel wire harness for the 8228 coil to work. depend on what coil you use you have to use a ballest if you just using a coil other then the 8228..
does this make a diference sure , better idle better fuel buring and maybe a tad of power , tad better MPG . but the MSD is better used with other mods.. just the coil and wires will free up the rpms. the 6a box can be used anytime..
Thanks for the info, the more I look into this the more questions I end up having. Figures... it always goes that way!?!
Anyway, after doing more research I am thinking of going w/ MSD wires, and a brass distributor cap and rotor from NAPA. The Performance Distributors kit I was looking at has the brass in the cap and rotor and everything I've read seems brass is the way to go. But really how much of a difference can there be between a $40 cap & rotor and a $20 cap & rotor from NAPA. Both use brass connections, so I am guessing they will work the same.
As for the wires, I think I am going with the MSD 8.5mm Super Conductor Spark Plug Wires - they only have 40-50 ohms/ft. resistance compared to the stock wires resistance of 1500 ohms/ft.
And as you recommend I've talked to a few other people and I am just going to do the coil for now and I am going w/ the MSD part for that also, and the accel wire harness since my truck is a '99
So all in all I think this will be a better setup than the kit I was looking at and all said and done it works out to be $55-$60 bucks cheaper than the original kit I was looking at.
I'll let you know how it works out
you really want to know the difference between napa brass cap and the cap from firepower ??? no difference just paying for the name.. good choice you made and good luck
Alright, I have searched and searched and am only more confused on this..
As I said before, I upgraded the ignition components to the following
Brass Distributor Cap
Brass Rotor
MSD Super conductor 8.5mm wires
MSD Blaster Coil w/ Accel Harness adapter
Now, my question is...
What plugs should I run with this setup?
The concensus on this and other forums seems to either be go with Autolite (5224), Champion (4436) or NGK (FR5-1).
however, do I need to step down to a colder plug? should I stay with the above mentioned heat ratings? Recommended gap? (.040 or .045? - bigger?)
This is the last part I need to complete this install this weekend, so any advice would be appreciated. I did search, and came up with TONS of info, but with the modifed ignition system, it has me questioning some of the answers I found.
As I said before, I upgraded the ignition components to the following
Brass Distributor Cap
Brass Rotor
MSD Super conductor 8.5mm wires
MSD Blaster Coil w/ Accel Harness adapter
Now, my question is...
What plugs should I run with this setup?
The concensus on this and other forums seems to either be go with Autolite (5224), Champion (4436) or NGK (FR5-1).
however, do I need to step down to a colder plug? should I stay with the above mentioned heat ratings? Recommended gap? (.040 or .045? - bigger?)
This is the last part I need to complete this install this weekend, so any advice would be appreciated. I did search, and came up with TONS of info, but with the modifed ignition system, it has me questioning some of the answers I found.
ORIGINAL: aim4squirrels
autolite 3923's
autolite 3923's
If my research serves me right, those should just be 1 step colder than the autolite 5224's
So I should step colder?
ORIGINAL: aim4squirrels
go with the 3923's, don't need colder unless you're running some HD stuff.
go with the 3923's, don't need colder unless you're running some HD stuff.
Alright, excuse me for not being 100% up on my abbreviations, HD? = Heavy Duty?
Alright all the parts are in, except I have to pick up the plugs.
So happens that my belt tensioner pulley took a crap, so I got that replaced over the weekend. Which means that the cap/rotor, coil etc install got pushed off.
I just want to say that I used the link in the DIY section to do the tensioner pulley and it was dead on accurate. +1 to BadStratRT for a superb writeup!!!
Problem is, after I got everything put back together, One of the belt driven accessories is squealing like a pig. I haven't been able to pin point it yet, but the water pump, and a/c compressor are new so i don't think it is one of those. Guess that leaves the alternator and power steering....
any suggestions on how to pin point where the noise is generating from?
So happens that my belt tensioner pulley took a crap, so I got that replaced over the weekend. Which means that the cap/rotor, coil etc install got pushed off.
I just want to say that I used the link in the DIY section to do the tensioner pulley and it was dead on accurate. +1 to BadStratRT for a superb writeup!!!
Problem is, after I got everything put back together, One of the belt driven accessories is squealing like a pig. I haven't been able to pin point it yet, but the water pump, and a/c compressor are new so i don't think it is one of those. Guess that leaves the alternator and power steering....
any suggestions on how to pin point where the noise is generating from?
Could be the belt itself. I think I have a worn pulley which causes the belt to squeal after about a year or so. I also did the tensioner, but kept the old one just in case.



