I've got a similar set on my hitch. They came with an L bracket and clamp around the square bar. Picked them up at Autozone. With a shell with another tinted window the rear view was non-existant.

[IMG]local://upfiles/29187/8E9ECD8517224C36BD91D49D160C448E.jpg[/IMG]

 

I like that way better! Good thing I have not done it yet.

 

glad i could help, lol

 

The switch in the cab wired to the battery is the best way to go, by far. Thats what I have done on the wife's Jeep and it ROCKS to back off the ******* population when someone is riding her *** in traffic or if they neglect to dim thier highbeams.

 

Definitely a good use... but I think it would be more entertaining (at least for me) if the brake lights werewired up to a switch too.That way, you can give them a fake brake check causingthem slam on their brakes and squirm.

 

I like that too...

ROFL

 

GoldPro You can ignore this post completely. I'm not bashing or anything I'm just a geek that has to say something.

Not trying to be a jerk I'm just an electrician with a big ego and I’ve got to say your theory is all wrong. Your right in that pulling in a new wire will give you brighter lights your wrong about the reasons. It's all about current not the voltage. The two are completely different. When you add resistors in parallel you are creating more paths for the current to go. This effectively lowers the total resistance in the circuit and allows more current to flow. It’s not that the wire can’t supply the right amount of power it’s that it shouldn’t. The wire can supply whatever amount of power you want. Problem is the wire has resistance too. As more current flows through the wire it heats up. To much current and the wire will melt. Now for the problem of the correct amount of voltage. If resistors are hooked in parallel then they all have the same voltage. If they are hooked in series then the voltage drops over each resistor. The lights are all hooked in parallel of each other but, all of the lights are hooked in series to the battery via the wire. The wire has it’s on resistance. The longer and smaller the wire the more resistance. That’s why there is only 7 volts on the reverse lights. The other 5 volts is given off in heat through that tiny wire. Running a bigger wire will decrease the resistance and raise the voltage. Hooking a bigger wire onto a little wire has no effect. Now if you were to hook a smaller wire onto a bigger wire that would have an effect. So in the end it all doesn’t matter since your still right. To properly install those light you need to run a new wire and it should be bigger. If it were me I would go with a 14 gauge wire. That way you have close to 12 Volts in the back end of the truck and the wire won’t melt due to much current draw. I’ve successfully accomplished nothing through this post except to show everyone my lack of spelling skills and that I’m a know it all jerk. Oh and remember this current kills not voltage. A 12 volt battery could kill you in the right conditions. You can also survive a 100,000 Volt shock. I have

 

hahah i take no offence to anyhting man, you spelled it out the very techinal way, i spelled it out in laymans terms, lol but in the end the ONLY right way to wire them is to run a 14gauge wire from the battery to the lights to make sure you have a good 12 volts.

also i thought amps were what kills you. but again im a retard with electrical, lol

 

amps = current

They are the same thing. Current is the thing, amps is the measurment of the thing. You have 20 amps of electrical current. Here's a quick note about a possible mod. Remeber power is equal to voltage times current and voltage is equal to current times resitance.

25 watts divided by 12 volts is 2.08 Amps. 12 Volts divided by 2.08 amps is 5.7 Ohms. 5.7 is the resistance of the lights that you installed. I used 12 volts since that is what they are designed to run at. Your total circuit resistance if you have two of these lights is exactly half of what one of them would be if they are hooked up in parrellel and not series. So the total resistance is 2.85. If we look at pulling the wire off of the already existing circuits for the reverse lights then we can use 6 volts for the voltage. 6 volts divided by 2.85 ohms is 2.1 Amps. 2.1 Amps times 6 volts is equal to 12.6 Watts. If we look at a fresh circuit with a bigger wire pulled from the battery so that we have 12 volts instead of 6 then 12 volts divided by 2.85 Ohms is 4.21 Amps. 4.21 Amps times 12 volts is 50.5 Watts. Your only getting a quarter of the light output from using the reverse lights. By using a new wire that is sized big enough so you don’t loose all of the voltage over the length of the wire you gain almost 4 times the light output.

Now for the possible mod.I haven’t actually looked at the reverse circuit to see if it is the wire that is limiting the voltage of if there is a device they are using to limit it but, you might be able to pull a new wire for that circuit and have brighter reverse lights. That is if the bulbs can handle it without melting the lenses.

 

that was very technical