I was trying to find the stock cam specs for a 5.2 (1996). I am looking for a possible cam swap when i put on my underdrive pulleys. I heard you have to pull the water pump and get a new water pump that doesn't come with the pulley attached. So while i have it off, I figure a cam swap would be a good idea. Along with plenum/timing chain/oil pan gaskets/head gaskets/valve covers and gaskets/main seals/electric fans.

I cam probably take the heads to a machine shop to get them ported and get a valve job. I just want a cam that will give me some more oomph in towing. I mean I have 33s and a 3 inch lift...so it isn't a drag king.

SHould i just get one of those comp cams xtreme 4x4 camshafts? Or since I don't want to drop seconds off my 1/4 mile should I just upgrade my roller rockers ("poormans" camshaft).

I just think it would be a shame to replace my timing chain and not put in a camshaft. Also, would comp cams know what pushrods I would need for the cam I buy from them? I ran into pushrod troubles with my camaro...had to buy 2 sets of 16 because i needed different lengths for the int/exh. That was a major headache and I couldn't seem to get the valve lash right.

THanks for the input.

 

1996 cam is similar to 1994-1995

http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/gas/specs/valve-5_2.htm

 

Id go with a cam thats more along the lines of like 208-210 intake/ 218-220 exhaust, decent lift....about 480-500, seperation at a bout 116 maybe 114. That should help you get pullin pritty good. Talkin a lot of coin for all that stuff. Get it all priced out b4 you commit. Dont worry about 2 sets of pushrods, all the same size. I went with 6.90s Valve lash should be set initially to drag, and then half a turn (if your going with rollers) If you are sticking with factory rockers its drag and 3/4 turn. When your done brakin in the cam take the valve covers off and adjust the rockers while running to get it perfect.

 

stock cam specs (1996 dodge ram)
cam lift intake : .258
" " exh. : .269

valve lift in. : .413 <--with 1.7 roller rocker : .436
" "exh.: .430<-- " " " ": .457

lobe centerline in.: 109
" "exh.: 115

with 1.7 roller rocker you see how much more the lift is , now go and compare it with a "performance cam" that is computer friendly and do the math , cost , down time...

 

I was gonna get a B&G when i put in a new cam, so i wouldn't need a computer friendly cam. HoweverI don't think I will go with a cam. BUT I will take Indyrams advice and write it down in my "auto journal." In a couple years, I want to get a new 5.2 shortblock then, over time, build aperformancemotor as a hobby, but nothing too radical. Plus get a fastman tranny.

Taking PAs advice from the 1.7s I have made up my mind for the short term. For now it will be gaskets/plenum, timing chain, 1.7s (covers), fans, pulleys, fastmanand B&G. Not to mention "FIPK no more"!! The wife agreed I can use $1500 from my tax refund for my "hobby/truck." Not too bad considering i need to file my2006 taxeswith my 2007 (in Iraqfor 2006-07).

Now, if I get the true roller timing chain that can advance 4 degrees, that won't be too much advance right? I figure it would add to the bottom end.

 

If you have the mopar PCM then you are not limited to a computer friendy cam .. i dont think anyway.. and i been thinking about this for 2 months.. cam , rockers, maybe ill do the heads... this mite turn out to be a fall project.... oh yeah look at shift kit , tq convertor , depends on what you really want to build..

 

I was thinking about the mopar PCM being able to compensate for a different cam, hence why i wanted to know the stock specs so I can do a minor cam upgrade, but minor cam upgrade = roller rockers. I guess I was looking for an excuse to do the cam while I had the timing chain off. Then i would have to pull the heads too...

 

no , you dont have to pull the heads if you got air comp. there a tool where you take the spark plugs out hook this tool into the spark plug hole fill the cyl with air so the valves dont drop...

 

+1

But if you get sick of doing that, you can always crank each cyl over to tdc so that when they do drop the shaft doesnt fall out. Definately not the best approach, but I got sick of doing it with the air pump so I did a few that way.