Body Work - Door Rot
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Joined: Jan 2008
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RE: Body Work - Door Rot
ORIGINAL: 2 Marks
If you are going the route of DIY I'm with burban 2002 - use the POR15 product line. The lower end rust nutralization products - spray cans - didn't do jack.
My local auto body shop told me it was cheaper to buy two new doors and canabalize the existing parts then it would be to cut the rust out and then fabricate.
Good luck.
If you are going the route of DIY I'm with burban 2002 - use the POR15 product line. The lower end rust nutralization products - spray cans - didn't do jack.
My local auto body shop told me it was cheaper to buy two new doors and canabalize the existing parts then it would be to cut the rust out and then fabricate.
Good luck.
Thanks.
Professional
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 119
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RE: Body Work - Door Rot
Make sure you treat the inside of the door--this is where the rust is coming from. Getting rid of the rust outside and painting will not last long if you don't deal with the stuff that's actually causing the problem. The key, however, is getting rid of every trace of the rust or else it WILL come back. Inside is much more important than outside because moisture and rust, along with leaves and other crap,accumulates in that lower seam and eats it from the inside.
On my Buick restoration, I use something called Picklex-20, which is a metal conditioner and rust converter (it's expensive @~$100/gallon, but you don't more than a few ounces for a job like this and they sell it in smaller quantities). Amazing stuff. I'd put a couple of treatments of that stuff inside and out, hit it with a wire brush, then prime with epoxy primer and do your body work over that (bondo or whatever). Finish with paint. Inside the door, just gently pour thinned paint or sealer until it just starts to run out the drain holes. If possible, move the door around (if it's off the truck) to splash it on all the surfaces in there.
Oh, and anything elsebut epoxy primer IS NOT WATERPROOF. Putting primer on and driving it around will actually accelerate the rusting process because primer tends to absorb moisture and hold it against the metal. If you prime it, paint it ASAP to seal it up.
Hope this helps.
On my Buick restoration, I use something called Picklex-20, which is a metal conditioner and rust converter (it's expensive @~$100/gallon, but you don't more than a few ounces for a job like this and they sell it in smaller quantities). Amazing stuff. I'd put a couple of treatments of that stuff inside and out, hit it with a wire brush, then prime with epoxy primer and do your body work over that (bondo or whatever). Finish with paint. Inside the door, just gently pour thinned paint or sealer until it just starts to run out the drain holes. If possible, move the door around (if it's off the truck) to splash it on all the surfaces in there.
Oh, and anything elsebut epoxy primer IS NOT WATERPROOF. Putting primer on and driving it around will actually accelerate the rusting process because primer tends to absorb moisture and hold it against the metal. If you prime it, paint it ASAP to seal it up.
Hope this helps.