When i do my plenum I am doing a whole lot more since I will have everything off. One of which is a new timing chain. I am getting the 4 degree timing chain that can advance/retard 4 degrees. WHat will help my setup. I thought advance would be the way to go, but some people are saying retard.

And how hard is a kegger mod for a beginner? I have 2 weeks because my wife is going to canada to visit the relatives while I am at school for work. So i get to use "her" 2007 Grand Cher hemi as a daily. So there is time.

Here is what I am doing with the plenum:
Timing chain
Fastman
Air cleaner
Underdrive pulleys
180*T stat (brand recommendations)
oil pan gasket (clean out that bad boy as well)
Main seal
Hoses
Paint for keg and accessories

Not too long thereafter:
Electric fans
1.7s (Cam swaps are for sissy 2wd dodges)

Thanks for the insight

 

if you're diving that far into it, you'd be crazy to not do a cam. get a custom grind from comp cams to your specs so you don't have to worry about advance/retard at the timing chain.

 

If you do end up only adjusting the cam position, I have to vote 4*ret. That is what I've done with mine, after reading about what Andy did and talking with him. I am very happy that I decided ret. and not adv.

Just a note of caution though. Take your time and triple check everything as you go. I did several mock-ups on what the gears and chain would look like if I was off by a tooth on either one so I would know immediately if I had installed either one off by a tooth. This was my first time for doing a timing chain, not to mention putting it back at a different setting than factory.

After you get it all back together and turn the key to start it, don't panic if it has trouble barely running and dies at first, then won't run at all. I about puked when I did this because I had been concerned that my 1.7rr were going to be too much for 4*ret the whole time, but I checked and double checked and triple checked (you get the picture) by hand with the stock chain and the new one put in place to see how much difference there was in positions at 0* and 4*ret. and my worn chain was just barely almost reaching that position with the slop it had. At that I felt sure it would be ok.

After getting everything back together, I went to start the truck and and OMG! WTF! F*** me to tears!!! The thing sounded very bad! It sputtered, sounded hollow, popping in headers, and quit after maybe 4 seconds. I was about to panic. I tried it again. Wouldn't run at all now, just sputter and popping in header as key was turned.

I kept thinking "Why did I have to be so eager to get more power when I wasn't absolutely sure?!" "Why couldn't I just have played it safe and went with 0*?!" "I may have just completely F***** the engine!!!" The frantic list goes on. After spending 2 hours going over everything ike putting the CPS mod back to factory position because I thought that it didn't like the advanced ignition timing, removing the valve covers to view any damage, removing the belt and pully to turn the crank over by hand to feel for hard stops/clanks/hits, I finally came up with the idea that maybe, just maybe, the fuel sync is out of wack for some reason so bad that it didn't want to run.

I knew from Andy's write up that I had to turn the distributor slightly counter-clockwise to reset proper fuel sync, so that was the last thing I could think to try before tearing everything back apart and redoing the chain in desparate hopes of fixing my F****p. After twisting the distributor (which was almost loose enough to twist without loosening the hold-down bolt), I went to turn the key. ROAR!!! The beast was awakened!!! I was ecstatic to say the least. All was well. Somehow the distributor positioning had been altered enough to cause it to not want to run. I of course had to tweak the positioning to what I felt was where it should be, but man was i relieved!!!

After writing this, I realize that I owe a big "Thank you!" to Andy for his write up and to everyone on this forum for being there with real life experience to help those of us through uncharted territory. This forum and the guys on it are "The Best!!!"

 

Ron,

I have the mopar PCM, for 92 octane. So should i still retard? Or just leave it be. I want to make sure I do it right.

And if i get comp cams to custom grind one for me...Would i need a computer cam? Or since I have an upgraded PCM it will be alright until I get a B&G. Indy where are you for this answer. I was joking about the cam swap comment!!

 

Ron your post reminded me of a thriller novel. Suffering, agony and despair but in the end it all worked out okay. I am doing the same thing and my biggest fear is that it won't start back up when I am done. Glad it all worked out. I don't think I would even have attempted half the stuff I am doing right now if it wasn't for this site. I am about to start a thread of the horror story that was my air intake plenum. It was filled with oil. So many people seem to be doing front and upper engine work right now, I guess i picked the perfect time for my project.

 

I really don't have an answer for you on this. I don't know enough about this stuff to offer any advice other than what I have personally experienced. Hopefully someone else will chime in and help.