I just wanted to ask this before I continued.

I put my timing chain on and retarded it four degrees. I did not touch the cam shaft at all when the chain was off. (my worst fear being 180* out) anyway I followed the instructions in the DIY, and lined the "R" up with the point on the cam crank pointing down. There is a key way so I am positive I didn't do anything wrong.

Anyway when I put the cover on and then the harmonic balancer, the notch on the balancer did not line up with four degrees retard, insteads it was more like 6-7.

So what I wanted to know is, should that notch be at the exact point of four degrees retard (you know the TDC and then markings going up and down 5*) or does that notch only come into play when using a timing light?

I am a little confused because I have been really taking my time, and don't want to put anything in wrong. It would be much easier to fix it now before I put the water pump and all back on.

If anyone has any ideas on this, I would be very much appreciative.

 

I did some thinking on this. If you did not move your crankshaft and did not move your camshaft, then your damper is now pointing exactly where it was pointing when you removed it. I would recommend that you turn the crankshaft and determine TDC for the number 1 cylinder on the compression stroke by the position of the piston in that cylinder. Then take a look at the damper/timing mark.

Remember, the timing for the engine ignition comes from the crankshaft position sensor andfor the fuel sync comes from the camshaftposition sensor. If you re-assembled it exactly like you took it apart, except for using the 4 degree retard slot on the crankshaft gear, the distibutor should still be in timewith the crankshaft and the valve train should be the 4 degrees retarded. No changes to your sensors or distributor should be required.

Hope this helps.

 

it did, thanks.

I put it at TDC on piston one and a mark lines up right at 4 deg retard. I think all is well.

 

Glad to help and good luck with the rest of the re-assembly.

 

How do you determine TDC for cyl #1? Valve spring compression, finger-over-the-spark-plug-hole trick, turn motor unit rotor on distributor points towards the cyl #1 point, or ? I'm just looking for some tips on how you guys do it.

 

that's what I did, only because I have the plenum and intake off, and its the easiest way at this point.

Others take the spark plug off and check. that is usually the easiest. The Haynes manual and the FSM explain it.

 

Having the distributor pointing at cylinder nbr 1 was the best solution for nolazach's issue. It tied the timing to the crankshaft so he could look at the crankshaft damper timing mark.

Usually the best solution is to turn the engine until you physically determine the piston is at TDC via the spark plug hole. There are many options to do this, just don't drop something in the cylinder that you cannot retrieve. If you do, you'll be pulling the head off. A finger over the spark plug hole while turning the engine over manually wil lget you close enough to TDC so you can begin the physical check. In this situation that would not have done what he needed.