Nolzach (spelling) had a thread that freaked me out about the starter bolts, and I even started a thread about do you really need to remove it to get oil pan off. In the end, I was able to remove the starter bolts off with my 3/8" drive tools (and a lot of luck I bet) because the pan would not move until I did. Its not that hard but you will need to spend time on your back working this out.

Read Zolzach's thread on his starter bolt problems and do what he does if you want a fool-proof plan, or just try it with what you have and buy more tools if needed. The bolt is supposed to be torqued to 50 ft-lbs which is not THAT bad.

I used the SEALED POWER pump from rockauto, fit fine, seems to pump fine. I really thought about the hi-volume but in the end decided that was for a motor modifed more than mine (i.e. value or crank work) and not my 14" round air cleaner.

It took me from 10AM till 9PM, with one 2.5 hr break to pick up other car from dealer (long story), get some McD's and get that second real seal. I am traditionally a slow-poke at auto work but I prefer to think of it as I'm taking my time.

 

this is my next project, i have oil coatin my tranny and t case and it drips off my skid plate. oil burnin on the exaust pipe smells wonderful too

 

several hours for me. i am also a terrible slow-poke. i call it.. trying not to f-up.
i checked, double checked, and triple checked the torque on most bolts. probably re-check the main caps 5 times.

 

I've dropped the oil pan with the engine in place before. Much cussing is required, but it can be done. Also, the oil pan gasket is rubber coated metal. Like the valve cover gaskets, it can be cleaned and re-used. Aligning it for the first few pan bolts can be a trick, but it's doable.

 

Thanks guys, probably order the parts when I get paid Friday.

If you happen to think about any more "oh yeah, this was an a$$ beating" moments, be sure to let me know.

Probably order a timing chain set and water pump and do that while I'm at it.

 

DHVAUHN I definetly wanted to thank you for the info on using the two 10"x1/2" extensions to get the starter out. I was going crazy over my starter bolt. I was even able to guide it back in place easier and set a proper torque. ( we all know how big ft# wrenches are). So thanks that helped alot.

I took lots of pictures but my shop computer is internet only and old. So I don't load photos on it. I definetly reccomend to yall shade tree mechanics on here, get a computer in your shop/garage. So that way when something comes up you don't have to use your nice computer all dirty.

Anyway, the rear main seal for me went pretty easy. I took the pan in and out by myself. I have a 5.2, and I didn't even raise it on jack stands. I have a low creeper, and my 6' 250# frame fits under there with ease. Getting the pan back on, wasn't as easy, but I did the string trick. I tied fishing line to the four corner bolts, put ultra-copper on the front and rear, and it went right in. I had my tranny-cooler lines loose, so that helped. I found this to be maybe the easiest oil pan change ever. Anyone here have a mustang? Go try changiong that gasket.

I couldn't have done it without the help from this site. I value the information gained here in the thousands of dollars, that I have saved from not going to a shop.

I also didn't change my oil pump, maybe a bad move but my water pump replacement turned into a $1000 engine overhaul, so I was running out of money. Plus I always had great pressure, just cleaned the screen and pick up tube and called it a wrap.

I did take tons of pics and did a few things not covered by diys. I will post them as soon as I can. I just wanted to make sure everything worked before I shared what I did.

Also with help from this site, after a timing chain, distributor cap and rotor, head gaskets, valve cover gaskets, plenum repair, kegger mod, new sensors, rear and front mains, new plugs and wires (accel U-joints), water pump, tensioner, and the vaunted fastman; it started on the first try. No fuel sync issues, no rough idle.

My only snag(s) was a leaking #5 injector(easily fixed) but it ruined my newpaint job on my intake; a leak from a bolt I forgot to put in, my crank pulley wobbled a little bit from not fitting around the crank(easily machined, must'v damged it) and my stupidalarm would'nt stop. I had to go to the store and buy a 3025 battery just to get it to stop so I could get it running. That dosen't seem right, but for some reason my ignition dosen't disarm it.

All in all my Feburary project went well. Thanks to everyone who gives out advice here.

Unfortunatly my tranny is leaking from the seal, and I know nothing about trannys.