Are you trying to tell me to do unto others as I would like done unto me?

Can't take a joke? Lighten up, I didn't intend to offend

 

What pressure is Cheby running now? If they are still running 43.5 you may want to double check that calc.

 

55 on that ls1

 

All supporting info directly quoted from ( Http://Brightgreen.us )

Ever see such a thing? Same idea of what I was talking about. Just a couple hundred dollars more.



The MAX Warmer takes hot water from the upper radiator hose and quickly heats a central heat exchanger so the fuel rises to nearly the same temperature as the coolant at normal speeds. Heavy throttle operation slows down the heat transfer into the fuel. In heavy trucks, it might be better to run two MAX Warmers in series.

And here is one more thing maybe worth looking at.

Drilling NGK V-Power Spark Plugs

The mileage gain is not huge but it is steady, and you get better performance.
Follow the steps in the photos because this is something you can do yourself. All you need is a small drill press and some tools such as these. And a little patience along with good eyesight. The choice of NGK V-Power plugs is made obvious by consensus saying it is simply the best plug available AND least expensive. Note please avoid platinum and iridium plugs.



This computer print was originally drawn with paper and pencil back around 1990. Since then, perhaps 1000 plugs have been drilled with varying size drills to see what size drill gave the best results. So the final drill bit we now use is a #61 or .039 diameter.



An NGK plug ready to be drilled and made into a jet plug



Our goal is to help you obtain the best possible spark with the highest possible amperage. Why amperage and not voltage? Because the data clearly shows it is HEAT that ignites the mixture in the chamber. Not voltage, as the popular propaganda claims. A positive spark is needed for combustion to get a really good start and stay lit. The gap we suggest is .030 to .035 to obtain maximum amperage. We have tested gaps from .015 to .060 over the years and those tests were full of surprises. It is common to break a drill if one is not careful. But one drill bit can last 100 plugs if one IS careful.



The drilled hole is shown here in the ground electrode. Under conditions in the chamber when ignition is started, the flame front actually tends to develop two waves that are formed going around the protruding ground electrode. This obstruction or anomaly causes a temporary dead spot in the chamber opposite the ground electrode. Things proceed better when the mixture within the hole ignites from the heat of the spark and is blown in a high velocity jet into the chamber to eliminate the dead area. This method enhances strong, reliable and healthy flame propagation throughout the rest of the mixture in the chamber. Yes, there are plugs with side electrodes that form no obstruction, however they do not create the little jet.

 

why are you investing so much effort into this nonsense? get better heads and cam. Everyone is always trying to find 1000 horsepower for $.50 without getting dirty....wth is this?

 

Seems like we have entered the hp snake oil zone
DEI won an new technology award for its products that chill the fuel rails, intercoolers and intake by spraying liquid c02. Expanding cold liquid gas & superchilling airgives hp, hot fuel and hot air reduce hp.

 

Or you could just index the spark plugs to eliminate the dead zone and save some drill bits to boot! Sheesh.
Constructive criticism coming at ya...shrink your upload images in the future.

 

So far, I think the award for best fuel economy trick goes to Fred Flinstone with his hole in the floorboard idea.

 

seems like there is no enthusiasm when it comes to the subject of increasing efficiency. the subject was and is not building Hp, but fuel efficiency instead. This thread here was intended to find out if anyone had any experience similar ideas for more complete fuel vaporization. Not anything else. If anyone thinks that fuel can't be vaporized more effectively through the use of some sort of heat exchanger, let me know and please support the statement with some info. to support the statement because as far as I know, if one is to boil their fuel, the fuel will have the tendency to vaporize into a gaseous fuel, as opposed to the liquid fuel normally injected into an engine, with much more surface area availible to burn which would allow for mroe complete combustion of the fuel mixture. To me, this is possibly a way to achieve better mileage but I'll just have to see for myself. If interested, I'll let ya'll know how the keggar bomb blows...

 

The modern gasoline engine burns over 98% of the fuel injected into the cylinders. Let's say you make it burn 100% of that fuel. All that work gets you only a 2% gain.

Heating the fuel is not a good idea. If it was, why aren't modern fuels equipped with fuel heaters from the factory? Maybe because it would cause detonation? Hmmm.

If anything, you should install a fuel cooler.