Anyone have any Special Tips before I start my Header Install??
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Anyone have any Special Tips before I start my Header Install??
Hey guys, I'm planning on starting to take off my stock manifolds in the next day or two and put on my Ceramic Edelbrock Headers that I got. I bought a can of PB Blaster tonight and am going to spray all of the bolts down with it tomorrow and probably the next day before I start on the headers themselves. I've been doing some reading and I think I can handle the job, but I've never done anything like putting headers on before. The most I've ever done is oil/tranny fluid change and I put some lowering shackles on another truck before, but I'm trying to learn.I've also got a set of Remflex header and y-pipe flange gaskets and a new y-pipe and high flow catalytic converter from Magnaflow on the way as well. If you guys have any special recommendations before I get this job started, I would really appreciate all of the help.
Record Breaker
Joined: Jul 2006
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From: PA
RE: Anyone have any Special Tips before I start my Header Install??
should of start soaking the bolts now . take the bolts out while the engine is warm , lot easy then cold.. and if any luck you wont break any...
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RE: Anyone have any Special Tips before I start my Header Install??
Yeah, I know. I really wanted to get them soaking tonight, but I ended up working late and it was dark when I got home so I just decided I'd wait until tomorrow. 2 days of soaking should be pretty good, right? If not I'm in no hurry, I just thought I'd start on it during the week so I can enjoy it a little bit this weekend. I'll let the engine warm a little before I start too. It will really suck if I break one, then I'll probably have to take it to someone and get some help, which would be a pain and a drain on the wallet most likely. Thanks man.
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RE: Anyone have any Special Tips before I start my Header Install??
Be generous with the penetrating oil. Give it plenty of time to do its job.
Get a package of socket head header bolts. You won't need to use them all, but the ones you do use will make the install a lot easier. I used only a couple in the areas that are hard to reach with a regular wrench or socket, but believe me, they made life easier. Mine are Mr Gasket #3411. They are 5/16"-18 x 3/4" Gr. 8.
Also, when you install the new headers, don't over torque the y-pipe connection or you will crush that donut gasket, and it will not seal right. I made that mistake the first time I installed those same Edelbrocks you bought, and had to replace that gasket on the drivers side within the first 6 months. Redid them without overtightening, and they have been good ever since.
Also, make sure you do several heating/cooling cycles. Heat the new headers up to operating temps, then let them cool completely and retighten everything. Do this 2-3 times over the course of several days, then check again in about a month, then in about every 6 months. Trust me, taking a few minutes to keep a good eye on those header bolts from time to time will save you the chance of leaks down the road. Leaks at the head can warp the flange, and make the headers useless. I've gone almost 3 years with those same headers you have, and not a single leak from the flange area. Those Remflex gaskets will help a bunch too, but I still recommend you check the tightness from time to time just to be safe.
Some of the stock manifold bolts are bolts, some are studs. For the studs, I had better luck unscrewing the stud from the head then i did unscrewing the nut off of the stud. I was afraid I would twist it off if I tried unscrewing the nut. So, I removed the stud by screwing a new nut down the stud until it makes contact with the existing nut. Then, put your wrench on the existing nut, and unscrew. It will back up agianst that new nut, and lock so that the entire stud starts turning instead. The rest is just praying that you don't twist it off in the head. Just depends on how rusty they are. I did not reuse the studs either. I used some new header bolts. Even if you should twist it off, there are still some things you can try. Not all is lost.
Good luck, and let us know how it goes. We want pics too.
Get a package of socket head header bolts. You won't need to use them all, but the ones you do use will make the install a lot easier. I used only a couple in the areas that are hard to reach with a regular wrench or socket, but believe me, they made life easier. Mine are Mr Gasket #3411. They are 5/16"-18 x 3/4" Gr. 8.
Also, when you install the new headers, don't over torque the y-pipe connection or you will crush that donut gasket, and it will not seal right. I made that mistake the first time I installed those same Edelbrocks you bought, and had to replace that gasket on the drivers side within the first 6 months. Redid them without overtightening, and they have been good ever since.
Also, make sure you do several heating/cooling cycles. Heat the new headers up to operating temps, then let them cool completely and retighten everything. Do this 2-3 times over the course of several days, then check again in about a month, then in about every 6 months. Trust me, taking a few minutes to keep a good eye on those header bolts from time to time will save you the chance of leaks down the road. Leaks at the head can warp the flange, and make the headers useless. I've gone almost 3 years with those same headers you have, and not a single leak from the flange area. Those Remflex gaskets will help a bunch too, but I still recommend you check the tightness from time to time just to be safe.
Some of the stock manifold bolts are bolts, some are studs. For the studs, I had better luck unscrewing the stud from the head then i did unscrewing the nut off of the stud. I was afraid I would twist it off if I tried unscrewing the nut. So, I removed the stud by screwing a new nut down the stud until it makes contact with the existing nut. Then, put your wrench on the existing nut, and unscrew. It will back up agianst that new nut, and lock so that the entire stud starts turning instead. The rest is just praying that you don't twist it off in the head. Just depends on how rusty they are. I did not reuse the studs either. I used some new header bolts. Even if you should twist it off, there are still some things you can try. Not all is lost.
Good luck, and let us know how it goes. We want pics too.
Record Breaker
Joined: Jul 2007
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RE: Anyone have any Special Tips before I start my Header Install??
Wipe everything down with Alcohol or brake clean before you start it the first time when your all done.
Otherwise you'll have stains and fingerprints that won't ever go away.
If you have access to a torch keep it handy. A little heat really helps stubborn bolts.
Good luck
Otherwise you'll have stains and fingerprints that won't ever go away.
If you have access to a torch keep it handy. A little heat really helps stubborn bolts.
Good luck
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RE: Anyone have any Special Tips before I start my Header Install??
Go to Harbor Freight and get yourself some swivel neck ratcheting SAE and Metric Wrenches if you don't already have some. They are $30.00 per set but will save you hours when bending over your entire front end doing the job on your keens when you have to install the headers. This is a must.
Try to be sure the header bolts aren't too short. Locking header bolts are probably longer than normal ARP header bolts. This will make the install go by quicker as well... I got the cheap ARP header bolts and they worked out fine but I found the install took more time then it should've and I wasn't able to install any of the washers that came with the bolts since they were so short.
And last but not least, Save those old bolts. Use them when installing your new bolts so that your headers will hang on them and not go anywhere till your other bolts are firmly secure and your ready to swap em out for the new ones.
Try to be sure the header bolts aren't too short. Locking header bolts are probably longer than normal ARP header bolts. This will make the install go by quicker as well... I got the cheap ARP header bolts and they worked out fine but I found the install took more time then it should've and I wasn't able to install any of the washers that came with the bolts since they were so short.
And last but not least, Save those old bolts. Use them when installing your new bolts so that your headers will hang on them and not go anywhere till your other bolts are firmly secure and your ready to swap em out for the new ones.
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RE: Anyone have any Special Tips before I start my Header Install??
Don't throw away your old manifolds. Clean them up and keep them.
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Record Breaker
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From: Allentown, PA
RE: Anyone have any Special Tips before I start my Header Install??
locking header bolts, or thread locker. Make sure they dont come loose but dont over tighten like Silver Ram said. Dont want to crush any gaskets and have them not seal properly, ull have a great smell in your cab if you do.
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RE: Anyone have any Special Tips before I start my Header Install??
ORIGINAL: Silver_Dodge
Be generous with the penetrating oil. Give it plenty of time to do its job.
Get a package of socket head header bolts. You won't need to use them all, but the ones you do use will make the install a lot easier. I used only a couple in the areas that are hard to reach with a regular wrench or socket, but believe me, they made life easier. Mine are Mr Gasket #3411. They are 5/16"-18 x 3/4" Gr. 8.
Also, when you install the new headers, don't over torque the y-pipe connection or you will crush that donut gasket, and it will not seal right. I made that mistake the first time I installed those same Edelbrocks you bought, and had to replace that gasket on the drivers side within the first 6 months. Redid them without overtightening, and they have been good ever since.
Also, make sure you do several heating/cooling cycles. Heat the new headers up to operating temps, then let them cool completely and retighten everything. Do this 2-3 times over the course of several days, then check again in about a month, then in about every 6 months. Trust me, taking a few minutes to keep a good eye on those header bolts from time to time will save you the chance of leaks down the road. Leaks at the head can warp the flange, and make the headers useless. I've gone almost 3 years with those same headers you have, and not a single leak from the flange area. Those Remflex gaskets will help a bunch too, but I still recommend you check the tightness from time to time just to be safe.
Some of the stock manifold bolts are bolts, some are studs. For the studs, I had better luck unscrewing the stud from the head then i did unscrewing the nut off of the stud. I was afraid I would twist it off if I tried unscrewing the nut. So, I removed the stud by screwing a new nut down the stud until it makes contact with the existing nut. Then, put your wrench on the existing nut, and unscrew. It will back up agianst that new nut, and lock so that the entire stud starts turning instead. The rest is just praying that you don't twist it off in the head. Just depends on how rusty they are. I did not reuse the studs either. I used some new header bolts. Even if you should twist it off, there are still some things you can try. Not all is lost.
Good luck, and let us know how it goes. We want pics too.
Be generous with the penetrating oil. Give it plenty of time to do its job.
Get a package of socket head header bolts. You won't need to use them all, but the ones you do use will make the install a lot easier. I used only a couple in the areas that are hard to reach with a regular wrench or socket, but believe me, they made life easier. Mine are Mr Gasket #3411. They are 5/16"-18 x 3/4" Gr. 8.
Also, when you install the new headers, don't over torque the y-pipe connection or you will crush that donut gasket, and it will not seal right. I made that mistake the first time I installed those same Edelbrocks you bought, and had to replace that gasket on the drivers side within the first 6 months. Redid them without overtightening, and they have been good ever since.
Also, make sure you do several heating/cooling cycles. Heat the new headers up to operating temps, then let them cool completely and retighten everything. Do this 2-3 times over the course of several days, then check again in about a month, then in about every 6 months. Trust me, taking a few minutes to keep a good eye on those header bolts from time to time will save you the chance of leaks down the road. Leaks at the head can warp the flange, and make the headers useless. I've gone almost 3 years with those same headers you have, and not a single leak from the flange area. Those Remflex gaskets will help a bunch too, but I still recommend you check the tightness from time to time just to be safe.
Some of the stock manifold bolts are bolts, some are studs. For the studs, I had better luck unscrewing the stud from the head then i did unscrewing the nut off of the stud. I was afraid I would twist it off if I tried unscrewing the nut. So, I removed the stud by screwing a new nut down the stud until it makes contact with the existing nut. Then, put your wrench on the existing nut, and unscrew. It will back up agianst that new nut, and lock so that the entire stud starts turning instead. The rest is just praying that you don't twist it off in the head. Just depends on how rusty they are. I did not reuse the studs either. I used some new header bolts. Even if you should twist it off, there are still some things you can try. Not all is lost.
Good luck, and let us know how it goes. We want pics too.